The Top DSM Community on the Web

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. Log in to remove most ads.

Please Support Morrison Fabrications
Please Support Fuel Injector Clinic

Not clueless, but would like experienced opinions

This site may earn a commission from merchant
affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Rekadae

Proven Member
54
10
Jul 14, 2017
Lapeer, Michigan
Boy oh boy, I don't quite know where to start on this one.

So I have a 97 GST, which has a build profile before somebody asks me for specs and whatnot in order to properly help me out.

Quick rundown of what I've been doing with it.

When I first got the car I did an oil change, got an ecu that had been adjusted for the 650cc injectors that came with the car to attempt to get rid of the supposed 'fuel cut', put it in with the injectors, turns out it wasn't fuel cut. Took out injectors in order to put spacers in so that I could properly tighten down the rail, buttoned everything back up, and now when I go to start the car it fires up sounds fine for a second sputters down and dies. Thinking atm it could be due to a vacuum leak somewhere, I have done somewhat of a boost leak test not at high psi or anything yet.

So basically what I'm asking is what could possibly be causing the stuttering when I go to give it gas other than fuel cut/boost leak?

And, what could possibly be causing my car to fall on its face and die when I start it? Mind you I have brand new plugs in it.
 
Check the resistance on your plug wires and coils to see if they're good. If you have the old ecu and some oem injectors, put those in to see if the problem still happens. How did it work before the ecu swap?
 
Check the resistance on your plug wires and coils to see if they're good. If you have the old ecu and some oem injectors, put those in to see if the problem still happens. How did it work before the ecu swap?
Had pretty much the same issue and yeah that's a good call with Oem injectors and old ecu, will try that tmrw. Waiting on somebody to confirm with me that they are sending me spacers and fuel rail bolts, running a super jank setup atm. Any idea what the resistance should be on the plug wires and coils?
 
I couldn't remember all of it, so I just found this. It's been a while since I've done the coils, but it shouldn't be too hard to locate on here somewhere. I'll go check my car to see if I have the Chilton manual in the trunk. It gives a good diagram and info for the coils.


You must be logged in to view this image or video.




EDIT:

Don't have it in my car, but just found the diagram for you.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 

Attachments

  • Capture.JPG2.JPG
    Capture.JPG2.JPG
    20.7 KB · Views: 37
Last edited:
Just added the diagram to the last post ;)


The only other thing I can think of to test is the Ignition Power Transistor. But I believe it can only be tested with an analog meter. I bought one for $10.00 a few years ago after searching for one for a long time. Just happened to see it one day and decided not to pass up the chance to own it. Still have never needed to use it since.
 
Alright, so I was on the right track with what I was checking. Fingers crossed that it's a simple fix. Still quite annoyed with the stuttering under throttle though but have yet to have a chance to test that. Car stopped running properly after I boost leak tested which is the part that really confused me.
 
Sounds similar to the hard time I was having like four years ago with my old spyder. I had a random intermittent no start issue. Tested all my ignition parts, replaced all of those same parts even though they tested good. still had the issue. Turned out to be the 1g CAS because I did a 6 bolt swap. It was a good unit most of the time. Once I found a new one, I never had the problem again. Took many months to narrow it down to the CAS.
 
Hmm, I suppose that could be the issue, we were messing with the housing for the CAS when we put gasketmaker on it to stop it from leaking, LOL.., mine is on the passenger side though and is a 6 bolt block/7 bolt head. Could I potentially just need a new CAS as well?
 
It is possible, yes. However, I do not remember how to test the CAS. I've run a 6 bolt block, 7 bolt head combo plenty and always loved the setup. I did find the testing procedures for the IPT though: http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/how-to-test-the-power-transistors.229419/
Hope that helps too. So what was leaking at the CAS? Was it the CAS itself, or the o-ring where it sits in the head?
 
Oil was leaking out near the plate, the same piece that ECMTuning sells as the 'Cam Angle Cover'. Was on the more outer part it seemed.
 
I'm willing to bet that's your problem right there..... you can't use a 2g cas with a 6 bolt conversion at all. You'll need a 1g cas, avoid the 1990 version though as it needs to be hard wired. A black top or green top cas can be plugged in with an adapter that is sold by various vendors. Top article here: http://magnusmotorsports.com/tech-articles/

Adapter harness: http://magnusmotorsports.com/products/electrical/1g-in-a-2g-adaptor-harness-97-99/

https://www.extremepsi.com/store/product.php?productid=27183&cat=1837&page=4

Black top:

You must be logged in to view this image or video.


Green top:

You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 
I have no idea how a 6 bolt would run with a 2g cas, I've tried it and it never worked. Unless you got something else that allowed it to work that no one has ever known about. The way the system works is a 1g cas is the cam and crank sensor in one sensor, whereas on a 2g, the sensors are separate. So if your car was running with a 2g cam sensor, and you had a 6 bolt block, you'd have no location to bolt in a crank sensor. So I don't see how that is possible.
 
Well, I'm a bit confused now, this is quite unfortunate. Maybe the car is just a 7 bolt block, and I was lied to by the seller and company that built the engine :hmm:
 
Ahh just realized why, I've got the kiggly kit that has a plate with a spot to bolt it up to. Still will attach some pics of the engine out of the car though.
 
LOL Yeah, I guess that could work, but I've never known about that option. I wonder if it really is a viable solution if a 1g CAS can't be found.



EDIT:

I never knew this existed for that reason....


You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 
Last edited:
Yeah I mean, it must be if it was working before. So I guess the issues back to what we were thinking before. Previous owner had a lot of money in the car and it's not that things were done wrong they just weren't finished it seems. Minus a few things that were done wrong, like a botched BOV flange leaking air like no other (fixed). If you want check out my build list has all the mods that have been done. So thinking it could still be plug wires/coil packs or something along those lines. Also need to put a new ORing on the throttle screw that is in the throttle body.
 
I did check out the list, which is what got me on the CAS idea, and your car does look great. I got a little soft spot for Barcelona DSMs since my first turbo DSM was the same color. But yeah, I guess go and test the plug wires, coils, and power transistor for sure.


My old one from 11 years ago:
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 
Yeah man, I'm just outright in love with this color. I definitely have a soft spot for it as well. It's my first turbo car, first DSM, and first car all in one! Lmfao. Welp fingers crossed that I can sort all this out. Thanks for helping me out man, me being new to all of this and whatnot helps to get a 2nd voice on things instead of me having to second guess myself the entire way.
 
Any time, I enjoy helping out other DSM guys. It's a great car to learn a lot from, but sadly it also takes a lot of patience at times. I've been there too, and it wasn't until my 3rd DSM where I was really in your position. The spyder I showed ran flawless until the day I lost it (long story). Then I bought my 3rd one not running, got it running, then lost all compression and was forced to learn how to rebuild the engine. I wanted to learn anyway though, so being forced wasn't an issue. I'll follow your build journal if you end up making one. (I guess you did LOL) Looks like a promising car. :thumb:
 
Well I certainly hope that I don't have to rebuild the engine... This one only has around 1000 miles on it right now ROFL, but yeah as I get more into perfecting this car when a bit more money rolls around the end of this month I suppose a build journal would be due. Thanks man and I'll be sure to give you a shout after I test these parts.
 
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Innovation Products Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications MyMitsubishiStore.com RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Vendor Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top