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Turbo2g

Turbo2g

5+ Year Contributor
279
51
Oct 13, 2017
Fallbrook, California
Hey guys, I have been reading around the site and learning a lot about my new 98 GST. I was surprised to learn a stock 2g is factory set to around 14psi of boost. (before Im jumped on for that, Ive done a lot of external research too and it seems people argue about that a lot.) But its 1g that came around 12psi and 2g around 14 from my understanding.

I definitely plan to do the wastegate soleniod restrictor removal and kick it up a lb or two. This is my first turbo car and I have a few questions about the cars capability. Is it true that a wategate can be adjusted in or out to increase or decrease psi? And if so, why isn't this covered on the free horsepower list? I know the t-25 can't handle much more than 16lbs after reading around. But I'm curious about what you really can do with it in stock form.

My real question is, without doing any modifications (at all). How much power can I make just with adjustments? This is a California car that I plan to keep smog compliant. Other than a cone air filter and cat-back exhaust, it will remain stock engine-wise. I want to maximize my performance though. So with a boost gauge, can I further adjust the waste gate rod length to get it to around 16 psi? Assuming its not already there after the restrictor removal. Or you guys tell me how far I can go..
 
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Turbo2g said:
I want to maximize my performance though. So with a boost gauge, can I further adjust the waste gate rod length to get it to around 16 psi? Assuming its not already there after the restrictor removal. Or you guys tell me how far I can go..
Click to expand...
No, the factory BOV on the 2g's cannot handle much past 12ish psi.Also a MBC is the way to go vs messing with the wastegate arm. t-25 turbos are not really great for cranking up the boost either, much past 16psi(ish) and you are just pushing hot air and raising IAT's.

Don't take this the wrong way, but you are going to want to do a lot of reading and learning if you want to safely start modding. Start with maintenance before anything else.

Here is a upgrade path... http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/basic-horsepower-ugrades-2g-4g63t.480196/

Happy reading :thumb:
 
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That's where he started the thought I'm pretty sure.. Also agreed on the BoV, it's plastic pos and will be a must for more than 12psi. Had the stock one on my car and swapped to a factory 1g and now I even out around 13-14psi.
 
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Thanks guys. Ya I'm just new to the turbo setup on this car. Trying to figure out what those who have gone before me did. I just need to know what the car can handle really. Im a professional certified technician and the lead tech at my shop. I have a very high understanding of what Im doing. I just dont know this particular car yet. Im well on top of the maintenance. Ive built many engines and done all manner of modifications. This call will never compare to my built C5. But I'm having fun with it. Looking forward to seeing what it can do! I want to avoid blowing the engine or a turbo failure. So once I know the psi limits etc. Ill dial it in. Sounds like a BOV is a good idea and thats super easy to put back to stock for smog time. I dont mind doing some little things like that if it will make a big difference.
 
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Turbo2g said:
Thanks guys. Ya I'm just new to the turbo setup on this car. Trying to figure out what those who have gone before me did. I just need to know what the car can handle really. Im a professional certified technician and the lead tech at my shop. I have a very high understanding of what Im doing. I just dont know this particular car yet. Im well on top of the maintenance. Ive built many engines and done all manner of modifications. This call will never compare to my built C5. But I'm having fun with it. Looking forward to seeing what it can do! I want to avoid blowing the engine or a turbo failure. So once I know the psi limits etc. Ill dial it in. Sounds like a BOV is a good idea and thats super easy to put back to stock for smog time. I dont mind doing some little things like that if it will make a big difference.
Click to expand...
Done right, these stock block motors can handle quite a bit. It is the tuning that makes or breaks what you can do or what you can squeeze out of it power wise and also safely. Ecmlink is the gold standard, once you get into it you have full control over ecu parameters: fuel, ign timing, 2-step, ect... the ecu in stock form will hit fuel cut at 16-20psi (varies a bit car to car). So the biggest limitation is being able to tune the car; you can go simple with pump, slightly larger injectors and a safc but its pretty limited and you can't alter timing. It all depends on what you want to do...
 
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Turbo2g said:
Thanks guys. Ya I'm just new to the turbo setup on this car. Trying to figure out what those who have gone before me did. I just need to know what the car can handle really. Im a professional certified technician and the lead tech at my shop. I have a very high understanding of what Im doing. I just dont know this particular car yet. Im well on top of the maintenance. Ive built many engines and done all manner of modifications. This call will never compare to my built C5. But I'm having fun with it. Looking forward to seeing what it can do! I want to avoid blowing the engine or a turbo failure. So once I know the psi limits etc. Ill dial it in. Sounds like a BOV is a good idea and thats super easy to put back to stock for smog time. I dont mind doing some little things like that if it will make a big difference.
Click to expand...

I hear ya on the smog, that's pretty much what my build was based around. I found every loop hole (atleast I think I did) to mod my car and stay smog compliant. All I need to put back is a cat, stock mbc and 1g bov and I pass visual. the tail pipe test is a hit or miss I'd they can smell the e85 they might fail me LOL. but as far as the t-25 I wouldn't push it. I started mine same as yours. the restrictor mod, too. got up to about 17 or 18 psi. my t25 didn't last long. upgraded to a 16g (since it says TD05H you can get away with having it because of it being a Mitsubishi part) or you can go 18G I know those are smog compliant here. fuel pump, rewire, evo 3 exhaust manifold or port your stock 2g collector, 1G bov, I'd probably leave it at that for now. I didnt go passed 17psi on stock injectors (no tuning setup either) that was back when I started. Enjoy!
 
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You can get away with quite a lot and still pass visual. 1g BOV will help a lot and should pass visual.

You can also get away with running several different turbo upgrades that appear stock. 14b, 16g, 18g. Several aftermarket turbos use stock appearing frames. fp 68hta being probably the most notable stock appearing turbo. Of course you will need to get a stock appearing j-pipe. And you will have to be careful bending your lines and be creative for a stock appearing feed line.

I would avoid any oiled filters. I use a dry cone filter.

Injectors, and 190 lph can also be run without failing visual. ECMLink, and ECUFlash can be used to tune and still pass all readiness tests.

Lot of room to make power and still pass visual, and still be able to tune it too.
 
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Sounds like I need to find a 1g bov for now and buy a boost gauge to see what I'm really at. I just removed the restriction from the wastegate solenoid today and plan to cut the bov dump pipe and clear up the intake pathway. The car isn't registered yet and is siting at my shop. I'm just working on it between cars. So it will be a week or two before I take it out. For now I think thats how I want it. Just the t-25 at 15-16psi. Is that tame enough to not need tuning? I just want to do the basics to get a few more psi than stock and not have to worry about driveability issues, tuning, changing fuel pump and injectors etc. After all, I'm going from an 01 GS to this. I think I will be pretty happy with the performance. This is going to be my new dd. If I ever get wild I'll upgrade the turbo and actually buy some aftermarket parts. For now, I want the under hood to look completely stock.

Oh one other question. These cars come at 205ish bhp right? How much would be a reasonable estimate of the power doing what I'm planning? 15-16 psi with stock everything other than a cone filter and catback?
 
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If you are in stock intercooler piping, spring for an EVO MR metal bypass valve instead of a 1g. It will not require an adapter to fit, and will hold more pressure without being modified. As old as the 1g valves are getting, many leak. If you are going this route, I would suggest a fuel pump rewire as the next cheap mod. The BCS restrictor mod should get you to about 15 psi and taper down to about 13 psi.

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What year EVO bovs will fit? A quick search shows EVO X valves to be more affordable than 8 and 9 stuff. Are they all direct fit? And is the fuel pump accessible from the back seat like in my 3rd gen? If so, upgrading the pump is easy too.
 
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It will start with a few lbs :) welcome ! First thing I would do (aside from maintenence) is build a boost leak tester and make sure everything is air tight. Then aftermarket boost gauge. Definitely not 205bhp. About 185 to 195 crank. T25 spools quick, so that is on your side. 2 to 3 lbs should be OK with fuel pump rewire, but any more than that and you will want ecmlink or a form of logging. This will be the biggest investment to start. If you boost through the roof, hit fuel cut, you will be subjecting yourself to detonation and running lean. Potentially an explosion and deep regret. DO NOT cut the dump pipe without a way to tune for it. Sounds like you have more reading to do
 
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TermTrky said:
DO NOT cut the dump pipe without a way to tune for it.
Click to expand...

See that's the info I need to know before I do anything. I need to know what to do, and not do, so I don't screw things up. I just want the thing to run great and be a couple psi up from stock. Maximize the t-15 safely. As an experienced technician, I'd be curious to hear a legitimate reason why removing the part of the bov dump tube that chokes the intake track would make any negative difference.. The MAF sends the amount of airflow data to the ecm and the ecm adjusts all other parameters accordingly. I highly doubt the airflow would be so much greater that it would overcome the computers ability to adjust for. So it wouldn't make any negative difference in my experience. Thats just my opinion. However I am more than open to hearing what those with experience with these cars say. I've cleaned up the intake boxes, piping, MAF screens, throttle inlets, and you name it on many different vehicles. All gained quicker throttle response and smoother idle.
 
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To be clear. The dump tube inside inside the intake pipe attached to the compressor housing can be modified without ill effect as it does not affect air flow like shown in the link blow:

http://www.plymouthlaser.com/bdump.htm

The no no, would be deleting the dump tube all together going to what is called "vent to atmosphere" without a way to compensate for un-metered flow (GM MAF setup closer to TB, Speed density) as shown below:

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Now that makes more sense. I plan to leave the setup stock, just clear the part that goes down into the inlet duct. I don't think it will be a problem.
 
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Can anyone confirm what evo bovs will work? I'm interested in picking one up. I think for what I'm doing, a 1g will be sufficient. But I'm more concerned about a 25 year old part even working right.
 
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Turbo2g said:
Can anyone confirm what evo bovs will work? I'm interested in picking one up. I think for what I'm doing, a 1g will be sufficient. But I'm more concerned about a 25 year old part even working right.
Click to expand...

The bypass valve you will be looking for is from the Evo 8/9. The MR Evo 8 had the metal ones, and all Evo 9's had the metal valve as well. Other models of the Evo 8 had a plastic one, which is not what You want. You can get them used here, EBay, and on Evolution M forums. If you're after a new one, many of the supporting vendors have them available.
 
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Great! Thanks man, I'll see whats available :thumb:
 
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Thanks, that one looks like it would work for sure. Pricey for what it is though.. Id be better off just getting an evo one if I was gonna pay for a 1g and that flange. Would be around $100 after tax and shipping. Around what evo ones go for. The evo ones seem to all come with the flange.

The charge pipe doesn't fit at all. That's why I'm looking for the flange. I looked under the hood and you'd have to do hacking and fittings etc.
 
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I have an adapter I can send you, no big just dm me if you need it. Also a little input on the bcs restrictor.. I literally just did that and reading by the gauge I got an extra 2psi with a 1g bov. Did a highway pull in 5th and got 14psi, then today after I did the bcs got 16psi. Good stuff.
 
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Thanks guys, I ordered a 1g bov with a flange and gasket yesterday. Cant wait to try it out! I haven't drove the car yet after doing the restrictor removal. I have a few issues to work out with the car still before I can smog and register it.
 
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