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Kind of a weird one. Clutch pedal low.. but read on

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19gsx91

10+ Year Contributor
1,199
294
Apr 20, 2011
Walworth, New_York
Hey guys, I was driving the GSX the other day heading to work, coming off the thruway I stop at the tollbooth, car feels notchy downshifting.. pay my toll.. take off try to shift into 2nd and the pedal drops straight to floor, doesn't come back up. ruh roh. pull over to the side.

My stainless braided line was rubbing on a clamp and burst.. lost fluid, lost pressure. no more pedal. tow it to work, put a new line on, bleed it out as best I can at work hoping I can limp it home. Get in and the clutch pedal is lower than it normally sits, about an inch or so underneath my brake pedal currently. start the car and you can hear the TOB rubbing against something internally.. suspicious of a bad slave, I replace that as well. rebleed. same results. I make as many adjustments as I want at the clutch master and see little to no change in clutch pedal height.

With the new slave and line installed my clutch fork is sitting far to the left.. (as of a few weeks ago it was center) Clutch pedal assembly is welded, still feels tight, any movement at the pedal is immediately felt at the master rod. I'm just confused as to where and why me popping a hydraulic line would cause my pedal assembly to sit low and my clutch fork to be all the way to the left.

@bastarddsm @twicks69 You two combined know just about everything there is to know about this subject.

My next course of action is to undo the clevis and see whether or not the pedal assembly will even return to its original height with no input from the hydraulic system. I'm just confused.. after I noticed the issue the car probably didn't travel more then 30-40 feet.

Any other sanity checks I can do at this point?

Any input appreciated,
Joe
 
I haven't read your post because I'm driving but if your clutch was fine before and suddenly it's not fine something is broke start investigating until you find it. Are clutch system is self adjusting you should never need to adjust it unless you replace a master cylinder all that adjusting it does is compensate for manufacturing tolerances in the master and the clutch linkage.
 
A TOB wouldn't cause the fork to be all the way to the left, unless it grenaded and now has all that room for the fork to travel on, but it would no longer return to position since the TOB wouldn't be pushing it back. Does it sound like there are metal pieces floating around your bell housing? For precautionary reasons, check to see if your master cylinder is leaking. The way I've experienced clutch issues in the past, one thing breaking will lead right into another and create a domino effect of failures. Replaced the slave, master, and the clutch all within a couple months and never got it to adjust properly until I did the awd swap.
 
Clutch master is fairy new OEM, no leaks. it's a competition clutch fork with the oem TOB but the whole setup has roughly.. 30k or so or on an ACT 2600 kit. I got a bit upset last night and never put the intake and such back together to see what it would do while running.
 
That's what I'm thinking.. I've got a new transmission/xcase and SBC setup that's been waiting to go in... so I guess it might be time.
 
Dam Joe, quit beating on her :p.....seriously, sorry to hear but go ahead and get that other trans/case and clutch ready to go in. What plate do you have in the SBC setup?
 
Oh Vegas..

In all seriousness there's a kid that lives down the street with a 97 420a eclipse and he blew the engine and came in looking to buy a 4.0 v8 out of a bmw to "swap in" to his "drag eclipse"
 
I think the SS is a 2200# plate and I would recommend one with more clamp. My SMALL BLOCK CHEVY...I mean southbend clutch, is a 2200# and you need more clamp. When I got mine, I never in my wildest dreams thought I would have a 500hp (now 0 hp) DSM and went with the regular southbend. It looses clamp at 500 ft/lbs, I know, I over did it. It did come back but get the higher clamp load plate if possible. That's why I was asking.
This is my clutch:
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And Vegas, here is the new SBC for the DSM........it's almost done....

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:p
 
Oh Marty I already bought everything.. probably almost a year ago. It's been sitting in a corner.. next to my rebuilt trans and xcase.

Oh yeah Marty!? I'll raise you a SBC as well. I miss this lil guy.. 350 punched .060 over with a lunati cam.. it sounded good.
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Love it Joe. I was all into Chevy's until the DSM got dumped onto me and then....well, the motor is still in the corner. 11:1's, Eagle Crank and rods, balanced, Comp 292H cam, aluminum roller rockers and dual springs with a Scorpion manifold and a Holley 850 DP.
My chevy's were fun and I am getting ready to bring the 67 RS home for safe keeping. Nice picture Joe :thumb:
That pressure plate is just like mine, so if you think you are going to launch the car or ride it out of the hole, I would go to the 2600#. If you slip mine off the line, it doesn't like to grab 2nd and 3rd, it slips. I just want you to know how it works before you get it all installed Joe.

Ps...I even have the same Craftsman toolbox, great minds you know!!!
 
Ps...I even have the same Craftsman toolbox, great minds you know!!!

70% off! 52" wide with a dent for $400. I couldn't resist.

Yeah.. a few weeks after that photo was taken after I got it back in the pickup fell off inside the pan and wiped the bearings out. my 83 has been sitting for a few years now. I have a few Lq9s on stands (I get them dirt cheap from work) and I just haven't had the ambition. That build was just a built block with vortec heads, ls3 beehives, 1.6 roller rockers, edelbrock 750 and a edelbrock intake.. I miss it. One day I'll get it back together.

I think I might have to pull everything apart.. to be completely honest the clutch fork felt kinda weird, wobbly, with no actual tension on it while the slave was out, so i'm not sure why or how a leaking clutch line did it but it might of sealed the deal on something internal.
 
I'm old LOL and mine has been in the same spot for 25 yrs. The boys have newer boxes.
Well Joe I don't know what else to say that hasn't been said, looks like it is that time you have prepaired for but dredded. I know how that clutch and my car worked but I had too much vroom vroom so while I'm down its getting a heavier plate (2600 or special order 2900) if not a twin. I almost feel like my car would have launched much better with the heavier stock flywheel. Just some observations. My old Camaro LOVED the 1 ton flywheel/clutch setup I had in it. Stores alot of energy.
 
Then you will LOVE that setup! Nice pedal feel and a good one for most. I plan on using mine in one of my FWD cars!
 
@bastarddsm

Finally got a chance to tinker with it tonight when i got home..

Unhooked the clevis pin from the clutch master and on it's own it will not return all the way up.. there is about an inch between where it sits in it's resting state and where it should be (looking at it from where the clutch switch is)

Bent clutch pedal assembly? It was previously welded.. but while I was on the side of the road I was attempting to pinch the line just to get it to work and my coworker was pushing on the pedal to see if there was pressure.. the more I think about it the more I'm certain that that would probably be the case.
 
Is your friend Big and Green or a skinny little fart like me? Dam I would think it would take alot of pressure to bend the clutch pedal but I guess anything is possible..... (I looked a little closer under my hood today and now KNOW anything is possible)
Can you take a picture to look at it?
 
He's an idiot. If that helps. LOL. I don't imagine it would take a whole lot of pressure if the line was blocked off completely and the moron at the pedal was just pushing as hard as they could.

Hey fun game to lighten your mood! Count the turbos in the first picture! LOL also that picture is of my new toolbox.
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And here are the pedal/space between. mind you that the clevis pin is unhooked completely.. so that is the pedal assembly at it's resting stage.
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