Yeah I guess it's more common than you think. Previous owner was buying parts though non site sponsors and he was viewing gaskets by manufacturers.

So he found the bore and thickness he wanted to run a bunch of boost and clicked buy it now

Receipts for head studs show them to be correct, but they have 13 mm nuts on them. So again I'm not sure they are the specific ones needed, but they say 4g63 7 bolt

Hopefully I'll have the car running tonight. I did forget to put back on the tow bracket? On the exhaust manifold. I think it should be fine without it

Stupid Mitsubishi. Make 3 identical connectors on the same harness loom, yeah so let's just make the coil, the a.c. compressor, and the crank position sensor all the same triangle connector.

Everything is back together except timing belt.

This front mount kit was a complete pain in my ass! It doesn't come close to fitting the auto transmission. I'm going to have to vent the bov to even fit the intake back in there.

Gah! I suck.

Doesn't smoke until it gets warm. It also idles high, also it doesn't always smoke

My guess is turbo. I'm tired enough I don't want to trouble shoot it yet

no bolt on front mount kit will bolt on. they range from mediocre to garbage.

you might have a bad EGR, it will be a vacuum leak and can have crud in it that gets sucked int the intake. turbo is also a good theory.

good luck, sometimes these cars are a headache, but then i go for a drive and i suddenly remember why i stick with them.

Yeah hoping for the best

It appears to be the turbo. It is leaking both oil and air

I believe it could also be the fuel injector spacers causing a vacuum leak.

Did you really install a new head gasket and replace the head without cleaning those piston tops?

diambo4life said:

Did you really install a new head gasket and replace the head without cleaning those piston tops?

Click to expand...

Yeah? I'm not going to see them, didn't seem like it should make a difference. Should it?

nope, i only clean the piston crowns if there is a reason too. like valve contact so checking for damage. its actually kind of time consuming to correctly clean the piston crowns with out risking damage too the ring seal, and cylinder wall.

zedicus said:

nope, i only clean the piston crowns if there is a reason too. like valve contact so checking for damage. its actually kind of time consuming to correctly clean the piston crowns with out risking damage too the ring seal, and cylinder wall.

Click to expand...

Yeah that's what I figured.

So my next theory is that the turbo is routed incorrectly to the water pipe. It also appears the oil cooler isn't routed correctly. Possibly caused the blown turbo, or more. The coolant routing on the car now is wrong, the heater also does not work.

Currently the turbo is routed where the oil cooler should go, so I have no idea how the oil cooler is routed

My colored diagram to correct coolant routing

Sweet. Sniped a 14b turbo on EBay tonight.

I was seriously concerned I'd have to over pay for a t25 14b, or another eBay shit blower

Researching on just freshening up the 14b before I toss it in to make sure it's good to go

"wrong" as in coolant lines directional crossed? or "wrong" as in coolant and oil lines mixed up? one of those is a meh, the other is an !!!

good score on the turbo.

zedicus said:

"wrong" as in coolant lines directional crossed? or "wrong" as in coolant and oil lines mixed up? one of those is a meh, the other is an !!!

good score on the turbo.

Click to expand...

Oil feed line appears to be severely molested, not sure to what extent. I'm also leaking, or seeping, oil out of the turbo. I can't see any visible signs of a leak but my driveway is covered in oil as if my radiator was leaking it at the front of the car

I can hear the coolant boil out of the compressor after the car is warmed up, and then turned off. When the water pump stops the pressure and heat build where they can not escape

On the coolant flow I think the biggest mess up is that all of the coolant lines face upwards, and there is no true drain. It's a function of pressure as much as flow. Not a big deal usually, but we're talking eBay turbo here.




I'm not sure what the deal is with mine but the block water fitting goes into the oil cooler and back up to the water pipe which technically correct, just not as made

So that big hose coming up over the j pipe is the suction to the water pump, not very effective having it looped over and around everything

Pulled the turbo, I've been paranoid about the valve seals and the piston rings

Cylinder head


I really really didn't want to pull the head again. I had faint hope though, while the chambers are fully saturated the exhaust valves themselves are bone dry

*alright I know a turbo is suppose to drain the oil so my testing isn't really up to par, but the turbo also faces much higher oil pressure and temps so I'm assuming my mock tests are adequate"

So I set my mission to tear apart the turbo



The heck is that you say? I believe it's electrolosys from poor or missing grounds on the engine. Could just be from the leak but this shit was just like the stuff I had to chisel out of the head



So half ads install it was but I still wasn't finding oil




Hmm exhaust side





Not having any shaft play at all i decided to fill the turbo with oil and seal it and apply rotational force to see if it was leaking. Immediately I noticed the exhaust blades had a very light coating. This was before i spun the turbine



And the spin




And the compressor wheel






So content I set it back on the shelf and went to put away my tools. About 5 minutes later I checked back and saw a big pool of oil








I'm not a turbo pro but I assume that my very simple test would show up as a significant oil leak at higher temperatures and higher revolutions. ? Right?

Good logic. I didn't quite follow - did you disassemble the ebay 16G or the MHI 14B? Great to see you actually fix the DSM instead of sending it off to the scrapyard or worse - the next owner! I'm going to replace my head soon - good to know a Fel Pro HG is good enough for a stock motor.

The crusty crap looks like some sort of magic leak seal in a bottle bought from vato zone.

TermTrky said:

Good logic. I didn't quite follow - did you disassemble the ebay 16G or the MHI 14B? Great to see you actually fix the DSM instead of sending it off to the scrapyard or worse - the next owner! I'm going to replace my head soon - good to know a Fel Pro HG is good enough for a stock motor.

Click to expand...

I dis assembled the eBay 16g while i was waiting on my 14b to come in the mail. Comparing the 14b to the 16g is night and day. The eBay unit still spins freely like a new turbo, but the wheels are really heavy and take a lot to spin them. This car had terrible boost lag, I mean these eBay turbos are junk. The 14b turbo is much lighter and easier to spool and I'm willing to bet makes more horse power

I've parted cars out before, my projects need to have 2 of 3 things. Original interior intact, original exterior intact, original engine intact. If a car only has 1 of those 3 i pass on it. I've parted out a 0 of 3 car I bought from the original owner, he swore it was his autocross car that just needed a little work, it was just a piece of shit he trashed and called his race car. I don't regret it, he killed it a long time before I ever saw it. Welding your skunk2 eBay lowering springs so they don't compress in corners is not how you make an autocross car

The evergreen one probably would have been fine for the head gasket. I highly recommend head studs, makes everything easier. Also buy a good torque wrench.

I just finished going over the eBay 14b tonight. The exhaust housing is ported, looks extremely well ported, no cracks, and the compressor wheel has a red stripe on it. I'm not sure who did the rebuild on this 14b unit but it's slightly different than a standard 14b

14b rebuild link from Justin

http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/td05h-td06-turbo-rebuild-part-1.303828/

Part 2

http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/td05h-td06-turbo-rebuild-part-2.303829/

Here's mine. It also appears to be an early 14b, but it's been re opened before and the exhaust housing looks brand new

bling5tatus said:

The crusty crap looks like some sort of magic leak seal in a bottle bought from vato zone.

Click to expand...

Now that you say that I'm positive that is exactly what that crap is. The insides of this eBay 16g are clogged from the stop leak stuff, nasty!

chrysler kid said:

I'm not a turbo pro but I assume that my very simple test would show up as a significant oil leak at higher temperatures and higher revolutions. ? Right?

Click to expand...

Wrong.

At no point should the turbo ever be "full" of oil during operation. If it is, it's going to run out of everywhere that it can.


Balance grinds on the 16G's locknut indicates it's been VSR-balanced which is actually a better form of balancing than what was used on that early 14B as it balances the assembled turbo at full speed to make final corrections. When that 14B was made, VSR balancing didn't exist yet....but the 14B technically has more-durable internals, so it's a tough call on taking a step backward in performance to a smaller compressor and more-restrictive turbine housing to gain durability. Of course the 16G is going to be laggier- you're comparing a 43/58mm compressor to a 48/68mm compressor which also has more turbine housing volume. I'm not saying the eBay turbos are good, but any 16G is going to be laggier than any 14B no matter who built it- China or Japan.

Your coolant leak appears to be from a banjo bolt that was either over-torqued and stretched or a missing/defective copper washer. The sad part is the 16G has plenty of nice features but isn't worth fixing as they're designed to be thrown away as they cost $170 new with the install parts.

JusMX141 said:

Wrong.

At no point should the turbo ever be "full" of oil during operation. If it is, it's going to run out of everywhere that it can.

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Balance grinds on the 16G's locknut indicates it's been VSR-balanced which is actually a better form of balancing than what was used on that early 14B as it balances the assembled turbo at full speed to make final corrections. When that 14B was made, VSR balancing didn't exist yet....but the 14B technically has more-durable internals, so it's a tough call on taking a step backward in performance to a smaller compressor and more-restrictive turbine housing to gain durability. Of course the 16G is going to be laggier- you're comparing a 43/58mm compressor to a 48/68mm compressor which also has more turbine housing volume. I'm not saying the eBay turbos are good, but any 16G is going to be laggier than any 14B no matter who built it- China or Japan.

Your coolant leak appears to be from a banjo bolt that was either over-torqued and stretched or a missing/defective copper washer. The sad part is the 16G has plenty of nice features but isn't worth fixing as they're designed to be thrown away as they cost $170 new with the install parts.

Click to expand...

Sorry man learning as I go, the more I read the more I know. After reading your rebuild guide and dis assembly of my 16g and 14b I can see why they aren't designed to hold any amount of oil inside the casing.

When installing the coolant lines on the 14b turbo I found that the banjo bolt was too long to be used with the thin copper crush washers. I needed to go to oreillys to get some extra thick crush washers to put under the pipe to turbo side for the banjo fitting so that the bolts wouldn't bottom out and would seal the coolant properly. I also had to molest the generic coolant lines to route the hot fluid out of the turbo correctly and not fight the thermal flow and pressure

I appreciate all the advice Justin, I've read a lot of your threads the past week. This is my first head gasket job and first turbo rebuild

Here's what my 14b is looking like now. I need to molest the back coolant tube but it's getting there .

You also mentioned that's it's very uncommon to see a 14b with a full un molested serial number, however this one has an un molested serial number on the compressor side





To preface my hatred of the eBay turbo I want my dsm's as original as possible. On the local Dallas Facebook dsm page i offered a full part out trade everything for stock, and no one had a t25 or 450cc injectors. So I literally couldn't give away the modifications. To replace a factory part on eBay 14b turbos are selling for $350, t25's cleaned up are just as expensive

I almost clicked buy it now on a used t25 with coolant and oil lines for $100 plus shipping. The scene is dead down here, I remember getting t25s for free several times, but those dsmers and those cars don't exist anymore

I'll trade the 16g for a 14b. Zero shaft play, appears that it did not have a restrictor hooked up to the oil feed and has no shaft play

Spent the night preparing to re install the 14b. I molested the generic coolant lines, as mentioned the reason the eBay turbo had a coolant leak was that the banjo bolts are just very slightly too long and bottom out in the housing.

I used a hammer to caress the lines around the turbo.

I went under the car to install the new oil feed line and found the stock t25 line had been cut In half and connected to the 1g style connector using rubber hoses, causing a leak

The oil filter housing was extremely loose, I went to remove the oil filter and the whole assembly shook. I had to remove the internal double threaded bolt and find a deep socket 1 inch socket to re tighten it and tighten the oil filter housing nut to the filter. Also installed the 90 fitting for the stainless line

The eBay stainless line, sorry extreme psi I'm not paying double price for the same piece


Here's the filthy bottom side of the block an oil filter housing. Tomorrow night I will clean the block and housing before I install the turbo



And the 14b torqued up to the fittings and with thread sealant. I was going to slap it all back on tonight but I get wrapped up in it and i would be up all night again

Woo !

This sucker smoked so bad after this 14b install. I used anti seize and all new exhaust studs and nuts, thread sealer, old leaked coolant, leaked motor oil, hand grease.

It took me about 20 minutes to burp the system, really worried as it purged but it finally stopped bubbling. I looked up as that time and my garage and front of the house is covered in smoke. Took it for a drive for a few miles and got it up to speed and it completely stopped smoking.




So in summary

New composite head gasket $27
New intake manifold bolts x8 $16
Extreme psi exhaust manifold stud kit $20
Torque wrench $29
1998 eagle talon factory service manual shop set $11
Stainless steel oil feed line $28
Misc surface prep discs for thermostat and exterior gasket surfaces $18
Ultra gray rtv tube $8
Actually adjusting the tensioner pulley for the timing belt free
New lower timing cover with gasket free
New exhaust manifold gasket free
New 02 housing gasket free
New downpipe gasket free
Can of wrinkle black paint $8
New valve cover gasket free
Re painting engine bay in white (it was heavily scratched $8
Medium to fine sand paper $6
Re torqued oil filter mounting bolt free

I got about 1 good pull in at wastegate pressure, or about 12psi before I lost ability to build boost after that. Need to iron out the little issues now like the battery drain from the radio wiring, the heater core being clogged with all that crap cooling sealer, and a few exterior touch ups.

Now just chasing down internal wiring. I pulled out everything that wasn't oem and found that the radio wiring is cut up

Looks good, just need to flush the system and possibly try to dig out the radiator core

chrysler kid said:

I got about 1 good pull in at wastegate pressure, or about 12psi before I lost ability to build boost after that.

Click to expand...

So you're not building boost at all now or you're not able to make boost beyond 12psi?

JusMX141 said:

So you're not building boost at all now or you're not able to make boost beyond 12psi?

Click to expand...

I forgot to install the c clip to keep the Waste gate actuator arm on the flapper.

I was scratching my head at work the next day thinking I was looking for a boost leak when I remembered the eBay c clip wouldn't fit on the 14b, and it didn't come with one.

It's 12psi constant, very slow. Pulled all the boost gauge, wide band, radio wiring out after I confirmed it holds 12psi rock solid to red line. I couldn't even read the boost gauge, it's in a really strange location and it's black face and the wiring was all messed up


Daily driving it for a week or two to make sure no other issues pop up before I sell it. I'll turn the boost up to 17 or 18 in a week or two after I've done 200 miles and re torqued the head. But I don't plan to make modifications a selling point

14B shouldn't use a c-clip to hold the actuator arm on the lever unless it's an aftermarket 7cm2 turbine housing from a knockoff- the OEM housings all use a cotter/hairpin through a hole in the pin on the lever.

Craigslist had a 99 gst listed at a yard about an hour away. I never call before hand to see what parts are left, never had a yard take any sort of real inventory or at least tell exactly what was left.

So told the first guy I need the ecu on the 99, nothing else, don't hard ball me it's $100 on eBay that's what I'm paying. He got excited, I thought I was setting my ground floor for negotiating but I guess he's use to people offering him ten dollars for an ecu. D'oh! After that he just let me tell him what I was paying for everything. He gave me the relays connectors, battery hold down, fog lights for free after that

I pull a whole bunch of parts I need and go back in and ask about fuel injectors since the motor is completely intact but the interior is completely gone. He tells me there is no motor, so if there's fuel injectors in there I can have them

So problem solved (I'm trying to go back to stock, my project car has 750cc injectors and a base tune in evo scan. It's also causing the relays in the dash to click, possibly indicating the ecu is in poor condition) so with the virgin black box and stock injectors I can start getting back to basic issues









And my stash. Would have grabbed more but it was thundering pretty hard and starting to rain. I was rushing to get the fog light. Engine bay was all still in tact, I closed the hood before I left out of respect for the 4g63. As you can see there is a lot of engine bay parts left for a car that has no motor according to their system