2G CAR WONT PULL HARD. BOOST COMES BUT NO PULL. HIGH TEMP.

JoaquinVergara · Aug 22, 2017

Let me give you a little background
Ever since i got my 2g I enjoyed it for a day. Next day it just kept misfiring at high rpm took me 2 months to figure this out. it was the wires. replaced them with NGK High power wires, the blue ones. Then went to another shop since i didn't like their service. so it was all good but then one day i started noticing whenever i go uphill my temps creep up a little above middle line then if i kept going it would creep into 3/4 of the gauge(pic is below, it would get higher than the pic as long as i keep beating on it). The shop an I did alot to try and fix the issue ( NEW OEM WATER PUMP, NEW HEADGASKET, RESURFACED HEAD, NEWLY OVERHAULED RADIATOR, WIRING FANS TO BE ON ALL THE TIME, THERMOSTAT DELETE[PUT IT BACK ON NOW WITH A NEW 180 THERMOSTAT] BLED THE SYSTEM LOTS OF TIMES, PUT FMIC SHROUDING AND DUCTING) but until now we cant seem to pinpoint out why. Now it doesn't seem to pull like before. it doesn't even throw me to my seat just a little. I still go to 100kph at the end of 2nd gear. BTW boost kicks in at 4500 in second gear. but when i try to test it lugging the engine in 2000rpm then going WOT it reaches full boost 13 psi at 3900 rpm. have done boost leak test and exhaust leak tests. turbo is a big 16g.

to make all of that short
I would just like to ask help for my overheating issue and issue on why it doesnt pull. Ive been reading lots of threads for months now even the one where it states all the possibilities of an overheating problem that if it wast there my car has to sold since it was possessed

I have my complete mods list in my profile.
any help would be appreciated THANK YOU.

boostdawd · Aug 22, 2017

What type of fans are u running? U say it only gets hot when your wot too or only uphill? The loss of power may be due to the coolant temperature being hot. What are u using to tune?

JoaquinVergara · Aug 23, 2017

boostdawd said:
What type of fans are u running? U say it only gets hot when your wot too or only uphill? The loss of power may be due to the coolant temperature being hot. What are u using to tune?

Hi sad to say havent got it tuned yet im dealing with a stock box and tune and im running the stock fans

miliman13 · Aug 23, 2017

Your OEM gauge will show NORMAL but it can actually be as high as 230F
So if your seeing it go close to HOT than you may be much hotter.

Yes the excess heat will most definitely pull back timing and cause loss of power.

Sounds like the shop was GUESSING on how to solve your problem....... How i despise the legitimacy of "shops" .

PRESSURE TEST YOUR COOLANT SYSTEM.
If you decide on new fans for what ever reason.

I HIGHLY recommend SPAL.

Just ONE 1840CFM fan can cool my car and AC and maintain 190-196F Average

JoaquinVergara · Aug 23, 2017

miliman13 said:
Your OEM gauge will show NORMAL but it can actually be as high as 230F
So if your seeing it go close to HOT than you may be much hotter.

Yes the excess heat will most definitely pull back timing and cause loss of power.

Sounds like the shop was GUESSING on how to solve your problem....... How i despise the legitimacy of "shops" .

PRESSURE TEST YOUR COOLANT SYSTEM.
If you decide on new fans for what ever reason.

I HIGHLY recommend SPAL.

Just ONE 1840CFM fan can cool my car and AC and maintain 190-196F Average

.

One weird thing about it is even though its cold it feels slow. I hooked up an aftermarket digital temp gauge it read 111*C. Ive done a cooling system pressure test and one thing about is there were ZERO LEAKS but some water dissapears but if i leave the rad cap off the dissapeared water comes back as full.

gofer · Aug 23, 2017

If you're overheating under load the fans have nothing to do with it because the air hitting the nose of the car is moving faster than anything the fans could do at that point, fan's only help overheating at speeds slower than ~65kph and idle. Never saw you mention trying a new radiator cap, sounds simple enough but if it isn't holding pressure in the system the coolant's boiling point lowers and can steam off. Also, you might have air in the system because of improper bleeding. You need to turn the heater in the car on full blast while you bleed your coolant lines to burp all of the air out of the system. Everything you've replaced I'd bet you corrected the problem but it still overheats because the system was never properly burped...

As far as your boost issues go, check the flex section of your downpipe if you don't think it's a tuning issue. Sometimes the flex section collapses creating a huge restriction in the exhaust and show's the same symptoms that you're describing...

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pat white · Aug 23, 2017

like the man said sounds like exhaust restriction

JoaquinVergara · Aug 23, 2017

gofer said:
If you're overheating under load the fans have nothing to do with it because the air hitting the nose of the car is moving faster than anything the fans could do at that point, fan's only help overheating at speeds slower than ~65kph and idle. Never saw you mention trying a new radiator cap, sounds simple enough but if it isn't holding pressure in the system the coolant's boiling point lowers and can steam off. Also, you might have air in the system because of improper bleeding. You need to turn the heater in the car on full blast while you bleed your coolant lines to burp all of the air out of the system. Everything you've replaced I'd bet you corrected the problem but it still overheats because the system was never properly burped...

As far as your boost issues go, check the flex section of your downpipe if you don't think it's a tuning issue. Sometimes the flex section collapses creating a huge restriction in the exhaust and show's the same symptoms that you're describing...

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Thank you Gofer ill have a look at the flex pipes. As for the radiator cap had them replaced tons. Had replace .9 rad caps alot and even till now tried 1.1 rad cap. I always bleed the system takes more than 15 mins to bleed it though

JoaquinVergara · Aug 23, 2017

Is 14 psi at 3900 rpm slow boost spool for a big 16g?

boostdawd · Aug 23, 2017

On my evo 3 16g I usually get 22 psi at that rpm.

kmetiuk · Aug 23, 2017

gofer said:
If you're overheating under load the fans have nothing to do with it because the air hitting the nose of the car is moving faster than anything the fans could do at that point, fan's only help overheating at speeds slower than ~65kph and idle. Never saw you mention trying a new radiator cap, sounds simple enough but if it isn't holding pressure in the system the coolant's boiling point lowers and can steam off. Also, you might have air in the system because of improper bleeding. You need to turn the heater in the car on full blast while you bleed your coolant lines to burp all of the air out of the system. Everything you've replaced I'd bet you corrected the problem but it still overheats because the system was never properly burped...

As far as your boost issues go, check the flex section of your downpipe if you don't think it's a tuning issue. Sometimes the flex section collapses creating a huge restriction in the exhaust and show's the same symptoms that you're describing...

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Damn man! Didn't even know that could happen. THanks for the pic.

Readdy2die · Aug 23, 2017

Another thing to check is your wiring. Specifically the wire going to the temp sensor on the Thermo housing. I dealt with an overheating issue before and after replacing a ton of things I stumbled across that wire and realized it was corroded and was barely clinging on so I cut it and added new wiring and it solved the problem.

JoaquinVergara · Aug 23, 2017

Readdy2die said:
Another thing to check is your wiring. Specifically the wire going to the temp sensor on the Thermo housing. I dealt with an overheating issue before and after replacing a ton of things I stumbled across that wire and realized it was corroded and was barely clinging on so I cut it and added new wiring and it solved the problem.

Weve tried replacing the sensor 2 times. Sorry for inconsistent things done to the car as it is hard to fully remember when the problem initially started more than 5 months ago hehe

JoaquinVergara · Aug 23, 2017

boostdawd said:
On my evo 3 16g I usually get 22 psi at that rpm.

So i spool too slow?

boostdawd · Aug 23, 2017

I would say so yes. You should be getting boost alot quicker especially if your on stock cams.

motomattx · Aug 23, 2017

Sounds like the cam timing could be off a tooth or so as far as the power problem goes.

JoaquinVergara · Aug 23, 2017

boostdawd said:
I would say so yes. You should be getting boost alot quicker especially if your on stock cams.

I am on stock cams other than a boost leak, pre turbo exhaust leak and exhaust restriction what are the lossible causes of my slow spool

JoaquinVergara · Aug 23, 2017

motomattx said:
Sounds like the cam timing could be off a tooth or so as far as the power problem goes.

Timing is spot on :cry:

boostdawd · Aug 24, 2017

JoaquinVergara said:
I am on stock cams other than a boost leak, pre turbo exhaust leak and exhaust restriction what are the lossible causes of my slow spool

Crap tune

gofer · Aug 24, 2017

Ignition timing is pulled by the ECU when the coolant temps are high, it will pull 1 degree of timing at 97*C and 2 degrees of timing at 107*C so if you're going WOT when the CT's are high then in a way timing is being pulled but it's to protect the engine. Looking at your DSM profile you have very basic bolt-on's that wouldn't make me think that it's a tuning issue considering you have stock injectors and a stock ECU and your 255 fuel pump is being kept in check with a AFPR.

If you've burped your coolant system properly (heater on) then the only other things I'd recommend is what miliman13 suggested and pressure test your coolant system and add a compression test in there too to see if your motor's healthy. I forgot to mention, instead of "hacking" your downpipe to check if your flex section is collapsed you can just drop the downpipe off the of o2 housing and go out and do a pull to see if shows the same symptoms that you're describing, i.e., slow spool up and loss of power.

JoaquinVergara · Aug 24, 2017

gofer said:
Ignition timing is pulled by the ECU when the coolant temps are high, it will pull 1 degree of timing at 97*C and 2 degrees of timing at 107*C so if you're going WOT when the CT's are high then in a way timing is being pulled but it's to protect the engine. Looking at your DSM profile you have very basic bolt-on's that wouldn't make me think that it's a tuning issue considering you have stock injectors and a stock ECU and your 255 fuel pump is being kept in check with a AFPR.

If you've burped your coolant system properly (heater on) then the only other things I'd recommend is what miliman13 suggested and pressure test your coolant system and add a compression test in there too to see if your motor's healthy. I forgot to mention, instead of "hacking" your downpipe to check if your flex section is collapsed you can just drop the downpipe off the of o2 housing and go out and do a pull to see if shows the same symptoms that you're describing, i.e., slow spool up and loss of power.

Thanks gofer so i just came back from an exhaust leak test showed none. Checked my flexpipes it was in perfect condition. Did a coolant leak test coolant got lost but i left if for 5 mins the coolant came back as for the compression test i did one last week it showed 210 on all cylinders

Patchez_ · Aug 24, 2017

fyi liquid is non compressible but air is so if you have the level go down when doing a pressure test it means there is an air pocket in the system somewhere. i would question the clock of your bigger turbo for your late boost, if the turbo is clocked improperly when replaced the waste-gate may not close all the way which would cause it to spool later, just a thought. also sounds like you are hitting fuel cut might check for a bad knock sensor or corroded wiring somewhere maybe even bad ground or battery connections or weak battery.

AlexGsxCummins · Aug 24, 2017

I read on here lifting up the passenger side while bleeding the system helps get any pockets out. Did the air bubbles stop eventually when burping it?

JoaquinVergara · Aug 25, 2017

AlexGsxCummins said:
I read on here lifting up the passenger side while bleeding the system helps get any pockets out. Did the air bubbles stop eventually when burping it?

Thanks everyone will try all suggestions and will get back to you all in a week with the updates!!

motomattx · Aug 27, 2017

There is a chance that your head or gasket is leaking for some reason or another, you need to do a test for coolant in the combustion chamber.

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2G CAR WONT PULL HARD. BOOST COMES BUT NO PULL. HIGH TEMP.

JoaquinVergara

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