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Alternator problems... new member please help

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Carter Reiss

Probationary Member
2
0
Jun 6, 2017
St. Louis, Missouri
Recently, I have had problems where the alternator on my 97 GST fries up. I have owned the car for a month, and have gone through the stock, and 2 aftermarket alternators. The problem started when my battery died a few weeks back, where I left the radio on while cleaning it. We got a new battery, and also tested the voltage on the alternator, which was low. I proceeded to get a new alternator, and 2 days later, I got stranded on the side of the road after the car suddenly died. I figured that the alternator I got was fraud, so I got a new one and put it on. The car sat at the shop with the new one on for about a day, and when we started the car up, the idle was bouncing up and down. The tune had been erased since the battery was disconnected. So, we reset the tune and checked the voltage on the alternator which was 14.2v. I drove the car around the block to make sure everything was running fine. The car seemed to be running ok and I pulled it back into the garage. Once in the garage, I could smell something electric burning from under the hood. The alternator was tested again, and it tested at 13v. Just from driving the car for 2 minutes, the alternator was fried. Both the alternators we bought were aftermarket remanufactured models. We are trying an OEM remanufactured Mitsubishi alternator to see if anything changes. We checked if anything leaked on the alternator, and it was completely dry. The A/C and the radio was also off while I drove the car around the neighborhood. The oil pressure, and temp. of the car were both normal. The car is also heavily modded, and I'm not sure if any of the mods could influence the alternator frying. Here is everything done to the car:


Evo III 16g (ported) Turbo
Ported exhaust Manifold
Ported O2 housing
FIC 1000cc injectors
Headstuds
K&N Filter
Apexi N1 Exhaust
Dejon intake
RRE downpipe w/ test pipe
Symborski shifter kit
Autometer gauges: Boost, EGT, Oil Pressure
Dejon Upper Intercooler Pipe
HKS ssqv Blow off valve
Dejon Front Mount Intercooler
Hallman Pro Manuel Boost Controller
Walbro 190 fuel pump (re-wired)
SS fuel line w/ Summit filter
Fuel Pressure Regulator
Visteon Radiator
DSM Link
AEM UEGO wideband
Fidanza 4.3 clutch
Fidanza flywheel
SS clutch line (Redline tranny MT-90 fluid)
Tociko Illumina Series Struts
Eibach Pro Kit
Baer Big Brake Kit
Racing Seneka Typhoon 17x8 wheels
Roll cage
Five Point Harnesses
RRE strut bar

I'm afraid of putting the third one on because I'm not sure if that one will also fry. If you have had any similar problems or have any suggestions please let me know.
 
^^^Ain't that the truth.
 
I've had this happen to me before with remanufactured Alternators, cheap parts were used from the cheapest sources. If I remember right I once went through 3 until I gave in and went OEM. Not that this is for sure your problem but it can and does happen.
 
If PS fluid isn't leaking onto the alt, you may want to check for a major short which will fry any alt (so it's wise to test before replacing it). Note however nearly ALL auto store reman alt's are notorious for being junk with people returning them many many times and finally giving up. If you want a better reman alt (or even new) get one at an alt/starter repair place.
IMHO (and I'd bet over 95% of all wisemen on this site): http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/alternator-output-problems.263621/page-2#post-151468330
 
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Word of advice for ANY parts store alternators or starters: have them test it before you leave the store no matter how much attitude they give you. These places thrive on cheap rebuilds and have no problem slapping a lifetime warranty on them assuming you won't even own the car long enough to burn through a few. Unfortunately they've driven many of the small rebuild shops out of business.
I have a 90 amp alt from advanced auto and it's been holding up for 2 years now. If you look at the reviews for any parts store they're usually terrible. I settled on advanced because they had less bad reviews and usually when you order online you save 20% and can pick it up within 30 mins
 
While I tend to agree with the above statement as the local autozone's starter tester is perpetually non functioning, I noticed many employees don't know how to test properly. On the $25 rock auto starter I just took in to get tested before I Installed it the kid had it hooked up wrong and it came up "failed" until I pointed out he had the harness hooked up to the neg terminal and when he tested it properly it passed. Not the first time this happened. I wonder how many alternators and starters get sold because of this.
 
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