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1G 2g injectors in my 1g

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Sbgriffin

Proven Member
185
16
Jun 14, 2017
Lewiston, Idaho
So I'm new to the forums, but have used them to search info for my 1g build. Have an issue that has me stumped. I know you guys don't like rehashing old threads, so I've tried my best searching this issue first. So recently I started having a stock injector fail on my 91 talon Tsi. After doing a lot of searching for a used set to replace, I decided to go with a professional cleaned and flow tested 2g injectors. After installing them with all new seals, upper and lower. They run great til they get heat soaked. Then I'm having a hot start issue, where I have to crank the engine excessively. So I figured it was low on fuel pressure after getting warm. So I put a fuel pressure gauge at the filter. All seems pretty good, 38 psi with the vacuum removed. About 30psi at idle with the vacuum hose on. I'm wondering if the 2g injectors work best with the higher 43psi on the 2g cars. It's like they don't have enough pressure after getting warm, yet my fuel pressure gauge holds pressure for about 20-45min. Any ideas? Thanks in advance.
 
Do you have link? And do you still have all your emissions solenoids hooked up, fuel pressure, evap, etc?
 
No link, it's soon to come though. I've deleted all emissions, besides fpr solenoid. Have tried bypassing it just to see, but it still acts the same. The thing is, that with my stock injectors it wasn't doing that. When I had one fail, and went to the 2g black top injectors it started. Only other thing I did at the time was fuel filter. Also prior to me buying this car, it sat for several years because of a failed timing belt. I bought it, did a complete upper overhaul. But now I'm finding a little rust and garbage coming from the tank. So I've replaced the fuel filter twice now in 1000 miles.
 
Also I read that the fuel pump has a check valve in it, that is meant to maintain pressure. Is it possible that could be faulty? Any help would be appreciated?
 
The tank has a check valve to bleed off pressure. Next time you drive the car, pull the gas cap off before you start it HOT and see what it does.

I don't think this is a fuel pressure* problem. Sounds like vapor lock or you're pulling vacuum on the tank, not allowing fuel to be pulled to the rail properly.
 
So just an update, I've tried a few things in the little I've ran my car. And the gas cap didn't make a difference, so it wasn't vapor lock. But I've been pulling a lot of rust from the tank. I'm pretty sure the pre-filter sock is plugged up with crap. So I have walbro 190lph, with the installation kit. So I'm gonna drop the tank, clean it out the best I can. And install my new pump. So also I recently did a pump rewire. I'm hoping I'll be in good shape with my fuel system for a while. Especially because my goal is pretty conservative, no more than 300whp. Anyway thanks for your help, I'm glad to be a part of the DSM community.
 
Just a thought but why not drain the tank entirely and fill it a was some fresh gas around and dump that till you get a clear result? I did mine on my 1g that sat for a few years before in bought it and haven't had an issue. You reminds me I should probably do my fuel filter be it that it's never been changed
 
Good call, I think I'll do all at the same time of the pump swap. Gonna have to drain it then anyway. Not really a job I wanna do twice. Thanks for the input.
 
So I've been driving my car a few days, just got the turbo back on after an overhaul. And some port work. It's been blazing hot here the past week. I've noticed the hot start issue getting worse with the heat. On top of that, I've been getting an intermittent miss, especially after revving out a little. As I stated above I just replaced my injectors with a set of used 2g 450cc black top injectors. Because one of my stock 1g injectors started to fail. I'm pretty sure it's now happening again. The 2g injectors had been cleaned and flow tested. So I'm guessing I'm plugging injectors with rust, or I have a electrical issue causing them to fail. Anybody have any ideas? I still need to drop my tank and clean it up, and install my walbro 190. Thanks again.
 
The compression couldn't be happier 156-158 across all cylinders. And I've done all my maintenance and then some. This problem didn't start til I switched to 2g injectors. But now it's getting way worse with the heat we've had. It's OK because I have several other vehicles to drive. But man I'm ready to enjoy my car, all I've done is work on it for months. So this weekend I'm dropping the tank to clean out the rust. Install my walbro 190, and I have a set of 550cc injectors coming. We'll see I guess.
 
Not yet, I know it's gonna run rich if I do. I'm gonna be going with a 2g maf here soon. I'm just not sure what all I need yet as far as couplers, and pipe. As Im still running stock smic, and it hits the upper pipe. After that I'm getting ECM link v3. Not to mud up the thread, but anyone have a list of what I need on the 2g maf install. I've searched and can't find anything on the intake pipe mod, lots of info in the translaters or hard wiring. Either way I'm starting with the fuel tank clean, and new fuel pump. Injectors and maf are a little off.
 
Also the vfaq's say with 550's and a 2g maf shouldn't need to much tuning. Should somewhat even out my AFR. Not that I have any experience with this. Is this an accurate statement, or not so much?
 
As far as the 2g maf and 550 I can't answer you but I do have 2g mass installed with vibrant filter. All I did was use a heat gun and stretch the pipe over the maf sensor. It is a tight fit but it fits. I am also still on smic so it's close. I do have fmic waiting but need to buy a bov. Also I am using evo injectors but I do have a link and I am recommending you getting it early on into the game. I did and I am very happy. As far as hard to start I would love to see the final fix. What comes to my mind is fuel pressure and or those injectors get vapor lock. Some older jeeps had those issues and a bulletin was to install insulators around injectors and rail. Did it work? I don't know but customer didn't come back. So I am happy. Let us know what fixed it.
 
Thanks for the input. I'll probably pony up for a vibrant filter/adapter. I see them on eBay for about $50. 1st I think I'll commit to fixing my hot start issue. Trying one thing at a time so I know what cured it. And hopefully I can report back with some descent info to help anyone else who runs into this.
 
This has not been mentioned but might be useful, maybe not
1g sticks used 38 psi of fuel pressure. Auto 1gs and all turbo 2g models run 43.5 psi.

Good luck figuring it out :thumb:
 
lower fuel pressure (5 psi) might affect starting ...pressure at the rail means fuel so that rules out the pump..but for sure clean out the tank cause all that junk is gonna mean a short life for the pump ...also sometimes super fine dirt can get past the filter and affect the injectors so another cleaning and new filter would be a good idea
 
So yesterday I braved the heat and dropped my tank. Was a miserable job being a 102 here. But here's what I found, not really much rust. But some white ethanol crystal buildup. So I drained and flushed with a few gallons of new gas, then checked it's quality after it drained. Really looked fine. So I put my new walbro 190 in with some new gas. So I think that after sitting for 4 years the lines were full of ethanol crystal buildup, and it seems to be pretty much gone now. Also the new pump definitely helped with the hot start issue, but it's not gone completely.
 
So it's been a few days now since I changed my pump out. Been driving it to work daily. At first the new pump seemed to help. But now the issue is getting worse. It's not just a hot start issue now. It takes excessive cranking when I first start now too. Then it idles real crappy for a few seconds, like it's lacking pressure at first. But if I shut it off and start it back up within a few minutes, it fires right up. And settles down to a nice idle. Also I've installed a liquid filled fuel pressure gauge at the filter. I've noticed it doesn't hold pressure very long anymore. About 15min after shutdown it's back to zero. Is this about normal, or does it point to an issue? Maybe injector seals/o-rings? Anybody have any ideas? Thanks again.
 
Not injector seals but injectors themselves. Drive it and after shutdown let it sit for awhile . Pull spark plugs and smell. Does one or more cylinders smell like gas?
 
I'll be trying that tomorrow, thanks. I've been suspect of those injectors since I bought them. Because that's when this issue started. But the eBay seller said they had been cleaned and flow tested, and he has great feedback. So I've been trying everything else I can think of to fix the issue. Also there 2g black top injectors. There couldn't be an issue with them running at 37psi instead of the 2g's 43psi? I've tried to search this exact question with no prevail. Thanks again.
 
So I finally got sick of my hard start issue, and decided to try something today. The only other injector option I have right now is a set of pte 550cc that I got off the classifieds. I was holding out on trying them because I have no tuning option yet. But I just had read on the vfaq's that a 2g maf, or a properly hacked 1g maf with 550's won't be far off. So I decided to hack my 1g maf, removing only the lower honeycomb. Also preserving it, so it can be reversed. So I've only ran a little, but it looks like it's cured. And really it's not running much richer. Kinda bugs me though, those injectors were supposed to be cleaned and flow tested.
 
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