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Eclipse #5

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FallenKing

10+ Year Contributor
84
4
Jul 17, 2012
Columbia, Missouri
Just bought a car that was used as a parts car for a DSM in a front end collision, he said he bought it without an engine, and rebuilt his old blown engine and threw it in there. The car runs rough. Mostly idle problems. Cosmetic issues. The top is broken and leaks, and the suspension is really bad. The mechanic that looked at is said he wouldn't drive it across the street with those wheels hubs (I drove it 500 miles home).

The brake lights went on halfway though the drive because the calipers leak oil as well. Thought id throw that in there, but you know, downshift and some e-brake saves you a ton of towing cost.

NOW, for the good stuff, this car will decimate all, after, you put about fiteen grand in it or more. If we have to, overnight parts from Japan. ;)

This is my 5th Eclipse, I first had a 3G that I mostly turbo'ed. Then a GST Spyder, then two 420's that I restored so they wouldn't be parted out. Now this GST Spyder, also saving it from being parted out.

I love these cars and want to see more of them on the street driving. Hate all the unreliable memes about them. People just drive this car a lot harder then your grocery getting Honda accord.

I paid 1800 for it, and bought one tire, it had sat so long on a flat that the flat took shape of a banana and wouldn't inflate properly after patch. I've ordered 2 new wheel hubs with bearings and tie rod ends. This will be a slow relaxed build as I have a BMW I drive as my daily. However, it will be a fun one, I plan on keeping this one so I'm going all out.
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Drift parts are in boys!


J/k these parts will just make sure my wheels don't fall off when I drive.
 
Yeah, gotta have the wheels on. Just an FYI, be careful with the threads on the tierod end. They damage easily and then spin in the joint when the nut wont thread on easily.
 
Previous owner was from Chicago so he rhino dipped the wheel wells to prevent rust, he also got rhino dip on the wheel hub nuts and the tie rod end ends, I couldn't remove the manual, I tried every trick in the book. I'm sending it into a shop see if they can do it, if not, I'll have to get the whole control arm and everything else new, sigh. I'll find out more Thursday.
 
Mechanic says one of the axle nuts was loose, so it made it seem like the wheel hub bearing was worn out but it wasn't he suggested replacing the Rack and Pinion as it's seeping oil he quoted 500 on labor for that, not sure if that's reasonable, I do know that I don't want to replace that myself haha. So I ordered a new on of those. Ebay had it for only 100 with both inner tie rods. So I ordered that, I guess I can return my current inners and wheel hubs. that pays for the rack and pinion. Going to some junk yards in saint Louis.

I need:

  • Oil Pan
  • Oil Return Line
  • Brake oil hoses on both sides
  • Battery Tray
  • Preferably Stock 2g Intercooler piping, he replaced it with some cheap metal piping and the BOV is pointed at the MAF LOL. So it pops a code every time it vent's air, the check engine light literally turns on and off all the time. and you can only mount it one direction with this cheap kit.

Let me know if anyone has any of that and how much you want for it with shipping to Missouri.
 
Please help fellow DSM'ers I can't post to classifieds or ISO even though I've filled up the required 20 posts, LOL so I need you to help a brother out.
 
So fixed the brakes, they're no longer leaking and letting our oil pressure. Got new tie rod ends and wheel bearings, replaced the rack and pinion. Put a new belt on the power steering pump. I thought that the reason they took it off is because the rack and pinion was leaking but it looks like the power steering pump was the culprit, it just blows air into the rack an pinion. So I'm getting a new pump, after that it should pass state inspection and be road ready. What I'm most excited about is registering it and taking the slip to Mitsubishi so they can make me a real key. I'm sick of the stupid looking walmart key.
 
Alright, so I still have every intake check engine light on in the book. I noticed that the Intake had all 3 holes unplugged. So I used some JB Weld to plug them all up, it worked. I found some "spa hose" thanks to WES_393's post and it worked to get the BOV recirculating. While the Intake was off I wanted to take a picture and see if my blades are damaged, I noticed there was no shaft play. To my surprise it looks like a 16G is in there! Correct me if I'm wrong but those turbine blades always mean it's a 16G right? I put it all together and took it out for a drive and noticed that the BOV sounds super loud at 4kRPM but is silent any higher, the hiss is also really loud if it goes higher than 4kRPM. This made me realize that the BOV is probably leaking a lot if not all of the boost. I came back here to go find a 1g BOV in the forms. hopefully someone is selling their old crushed one.
 
I got it running pretty good now. Still idles high but I have new Idle Air Controller and EGR Valve that I have not put in yet.

I put in a Gauge Pillar, Boost Gauge, Boost Controller and new spark plug wires

Sounds great now!

 
Please help fellow DSM'ers I can't post to classifieds or ISO even though I've filled up the required 20 posts, LOL so I need you to help a brother out.
Hey brother its 30 posts combined with 30 days as a member to become a proven member.
 
can still IM others- check out the classifieds and you should be able to find what you need
I swear on my life I messaged like 20 people and got 1 reply.

All I need now is a new oil pan.
 
Check out this homemade EGR Delete this guy had LOL! A for Effort! It throws 2 EGR codes!

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