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2G Found out why my axle seal was leaking.....

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jjw205

15+ Year Contributor
327
15
Aug 4, 2006
Syracuse, New_York
In the 3 years since I did my AWD swap, the passenger side axle seal always leaked. I replaced it three times, along with the axle twice. Leaked the same amount no matter what.

Took it all apart again today and something made me try to move around the differential. Well, the differential roller bearings are shot, allowing the axle to move around about 3/16". I'm surprised this didn't make any noise or vibrations in the last 3 years of driving like this.

Here is a video:

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That looks like a tapered roller. If so its the wrong bearing. If i'm right about the bearing the play is likely from end play so the taper isnt sitting in the race properly. Awd is supposed to use standard ball rollers on front differential.
 
Ive never seen that particular bearing that bad. Makes me wonder what else youll find inside.
 
That's the problem, I don't want to do all that work and not shim something properly or not reassemble something properly and grenade the whole thing after all that. A trans is probably the only thing I haven't ever had apart to rebuild.

I know the part is only 40 bucks so it's tempting.

I can't believe there were no noises or vibration. Car performed fine.
 
OK, I'm thinking about attempting to replace this front diff bearing. Does anyone know of any write-ups or have any tips on this? Do all the gears have to come out? I have never had a transmission apart before, so I'm not familiar with the procedure or any of the internals.

I have a crusty 97+ trans and t-case sitting here in unknown condition, but would have to clean it all up and replace all of the seals before I put it in. But I know this current transmission shifts great and has no problems, and the drained oil looked good after a couple thousand miles.

@twicks69 should I try replacing this bearing myself?
 
Its not all that bad. You dont have to remove the clusters to get the front diff out.

Here is the link for a good teardown guide with pics.

Youll have to tap one roll pin out for the 5th gear synchro assembly, to get it all the way out, you have to "shift" the slider into 5th's position, then finish tapping it out.
Be careful with the 5th gear removal, you can chip the teeth pretty easy.
Keep track of all the shift detent and t-case output retention balls.
Other then that, once you get the second case half off, remove the front drove input, then the front diff should just lift out.

Have fun :thumb:
 
If you don't want to damage your 5th intermediate gear, then use a push/puller tool ; OTC 1122 splitter and OTC 7393 push/puller.

You will use a lock ring pliers for removing the viscous coupler snap ring; like a Craftsman 47386 pliers.

You will use a 36mm socket to remove the end shaft nuts; remove the stakes first by using a 3/16" straight blade flathead screwdriver and hammer. I typically use this one cause it's cheap and I get a couple years out of each one - https://www.menards.com/main/tools-...451309247-c-9158.htm?tid=-8993537355097753765

You will also need a 3/16" roll pin punch.

A couple small prybars, 10, 12, 14, 17, 19, 24mm sockets and a 6" extension and you can pretty much take it all apart.
 
If you don't want to damage your 5th intermediate gear, then use a push/puller tool ; OTC 1122 splitter and OTC 7393 push/puller.

You will use a lock ring pliers for removing the viscous coupler snap ring; like a Craftsman 47386 pliers.

You will use a 36mm socket to remove the end shaft nuts; remove the stakes first by using a 3/16" straight blade flathead screwdriver and hammer. I typically use this one cause it's cheap and I get a couple years out of each one - https://www.menards.com/main/tools-...451309247-c-9158.htm?tid=-8993537355097753765

You will also need a 3/16" roll pin punch.

A couple small prybars, 10, 12, 14, 17, 19, 24mm sockets and a 6" extension and you can pretty much take it all apart.

Just ordered all of the items you have listed here (besides regular sockets), now need to order two Koyo 6207 C3 bearings. Should be tackling this next week!

Hopefully I don't find any other damage or wierdly-worn things because of the bearing.

On a side note, do people ever replace the bolts holding the cases together with shiny new OEM or yellow zinc bolts? Having trouble tracking down the two long ones.

Thanks again for the help guys!
 
Last edited:
Mitsubishi still sells all the case bolts.

I'm expecting you will find pinion gear shaft and ring gear damage of some sort.
 
I'm glad I happened to see this. I just got done putting my old 6 bolt back in my car, and after filling the transmission, I found I was leaking gear oil out of the passenger side axle seal. Due to lack of viewing space (as I'm sure you all can relate), I can only assume it's either the seal leaking, or the C-clip on the end of the axle spline keeping the axle from staying in the transmission all the way. The axle does slide in and out a little bit, maybe 1/8 inch at most, maybe a little less. Only real reasons I'm leaning more toward the seal being bad is A: the axle was bought new 7 months ago, and B: I never got a chance to replace all seals before doing my awd swap (7 months ago). I will have a new axle seal (for both sides) in a few hours and will replace them first since it's the cheaper priced option. However, I will look around to see if there's any differential damage like yours. Hopefully none will be found.
 
I replaced my seal today and it's still leaking. I forgot about this, so now I'll have to check when I pull it all apart again.

Yea. Nothing worse than putting it all back together to fund out it still leaks. Been there done that.

I still haven't pulled the trans to do this. It's basically hanging by just the motor mounts ready to come out. Just haven't had the motivation. But I will update when it's all apart. I'm sure I'll have questions.
 
I did some more reading since my earlier post. I can now only assume my leak persists because I pushed the seal in to where it'd be flush with the transmission casing. My reading suggests I shouldn't have made it flush. So once I get another one, I'll set it right.
 
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