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1G New oring block build

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Once you O-ring the block you can pretty much run any cheap composite gasket that you can find, its highly unlikely that its going to give out due to brand issues at that point.
 
To my understanding having a MLS gasket failure with an o-ringed head would result in a good chance of having to weld the head.

When going with rings on the block and a composite gasket; does the gasket go before causing any damage to the block?
 
To my understanding having a MLS gasket failure with an o-ringed head would result in a good chance of having to weld the head.

When going with rings on the block and a composite gasket; does the gasket go before causing any damage to the block?
Im planning on picking up the block monday, cant wait to get this motor together. I dont have the faith to push my current engine much further with the eagle rods. Ive heard some people bending rods at 700+ hp.
 
Block is getting a mineral spirit bath..... then it's off to the races. Will update as I go
 

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So tired , motors finished- I have to say with the new crank , turns like butter
 

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All finished -oring block, standard bore wiseco hd 8.3:1, Manley turbo tuff, acl race bearings standard, new oem 6 bolt crank, oem oil pump straight cut, 90 ofh, new oem head, kiggly Hla, gsc s2cams , gsc springs/ retainers , topline revised lifters, all new oem timing components minus the belt, gates racing tb- to be continued
 

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What a difference between the eagle rods and the Manley turbo tuffs. The measurements were completely spot on, add the the new crank. The motor spun with two fingers.
 
I was actually referring to when I bolted the crank in without the rods in. The crank spun so easily.....I think people over think and over complicate these things. I dial bore gauge my block from the machine shop. This time I torqued plated and honed the cylinders to my specs, went a little fatter than 0045, although I've had great luck with the wiseco Pistons and these measurements I plan on turning up the boost. As far as the rods I use a dial bore gauge and mic the crank to get my numbers and verify with plastigauge. Every crank I've installed has been in the .0025-.0030 range for oil clearances. The side clearances were more consistent with these rods but that could be due to the new crank. Having a new crank is a wonderful thing.
 
That's why you usually open up the pin end and narrow the big end of most rods, including high dollar rods.

It's rare that aftermarket parts can just be bolted together and ran.
The only thing I hear when turning over the engine is the rings rubbing up against the cross hatch.....it's a beautiful sound.
 
I was a little scared with my current motor as one of the rods was a little tighter on the cap side, everything turned out just fine so....
 
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