The Top DSM Community on the Web

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. Log in to remove most ads.

Please Support ExtremePSI
Please Support ExtremePSI

General Dyno results are in guys!

This site may earn a commission from merchant
affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

All those guys are probably also using 4 channel ignition. You can make lots of power on stock coils and a cdi. If I'm not mistaken Matthias Boldt still has stock coils on that mirage. Making like 1200+ hp on link.
 
All those guys are probably also using 4 channel ignition. You can make lots of power on stock coils and a cdi. If I'm not mistaken Matthias Boldt still has stock coils on that mirage.
I was actually just thinking that, they are all probably running aem or haltech. Probably a waste with ecm link, a good set of wires is probably all i need.
 
Yeah that's all I use, and no problems up to 40 psi. I don't see the point of cop unless of course you have a 4 channel ignition... which the stock ECU does not.
I've used the Taylor 10.5s, they were the ones I had blowing off but they were a couple years old. I'm currently using the Magnecor 8.5s as they're a little easier to fit under a spark plug cover.
 
Gap your plugs down. You do know that they burn down right? They dont keep the same gap forever . And it sounds like you're not responsible enough to leave the car alone and enjoy it as a once in a while toy and instead beat on it like it is your job. Then we get a million threads wondering why your high horsepower, small displacement engine won't stay together.

We have some cars gapped as low as .010". Most of the big boy cars I maintain are no higher than .016". We now have two cars that run motorcycle coils with a cdi box. Both cars are above 50psi and live pretty close to four digit horsepower numbers.
 
Im getting varying information from different members, some say having 0 knock is impossible. What i mean is I always get a small 0.4 blip here and there, its never 100% clear. For the guys making big power, are you completely knock free or do u get an occasional blip here and there. Whats interesting to me is as I do more research, looking at pictures and other peoples experiences with knock alot of these people suffer serious damage either to the head gasket or the piston itself. Ive seen pistons with severe pitting and completely roached headgaskets. I ran 24 degrees of timing at 5500 on a stock block 1g and only lost the headgasket. When my mls gasket went I was running 17 degrees at 5500 and couldnt find one sign of detonation. The minute i lowered my timing at peak torque all my problems went away. I do not believe one can "lift" a head sub 30psi with arp studs. I believe that the gasket just cant handle those cylinder pressures. The amount of downward force those studs are applying to the deck surface is incredible. I can say one thing, ill never use anything but a hks headgasket......what a beauty
. I would like to hear opinions on this also, I also get a .4 blips once or twice a pull on e
 
Gap your plugs down. You do know that they burn down right? They dont keep the same gap forever . And it sounds like you're not responsible enough to leave the car alone and enjoy it as a once in a while toy and instead beat on it like it is your job. Then we get a million threads wondering why your high horsepower, small displacement engine won't stay together.

We have some cars gapped as low as .010". Most of the big boy cars I maintain are no higher than .016". We now have two cars that run motorcycle coils with a cdi box. Both cars are above 50psi and live pretty close to four digit horsepower numbers.
The gap is not the issue, nothing has been touched. Ive literally never had issues with spark since messing with this car....at 10psi higher boost mind you. I dont mess with my car if I dont have to..The car went to the dyno made 550whp, I changed the oil, cut the filter and there is sat. As far as beating it like its my job....I think once your boost hits 30psi your turbo is doing that for you. Yesterday I went to take my cousin for a ride and up top it started to backfire and hesitate. So im thinking...what do I do that would cause this? Well im constantly checking my plugs which requires you to what? Remove the plug wires. On one occasion i didnt seat the plug boot completely down on the plug and it acted the same way. The hesitation was intermittent as the cable was bouncing on the tip of the spark plug.Can you really leave a race car alone? Am i the only one checking over the car every time i get back in from a ride? I have a journal of every compression test, leakdown test, measurements of my engine...including spark plug gap....basically anything and everything.
 
You obviously don't get it. Once you reach a certain horsepower per cubic inch the reliability drastically decreases. You seem to treat the car like it is still in a 16g. Stop rapping on your car like you're Mario andretti.

Yes, you're the only one. I deal with much more powerful cars than you have and don't nitpick and document everything about the car. Granted I have kept the same game plan for a very long time and don't have too many surprises these days. If you don't want problems, turn the car down. Plain and simple. Or stop flooring the car everywhere you go. You cannot deny you do, you document your every move for all of us to see.
 
BRB... Need to go get the popcorn ready... This is about to get good. :cool:

I don't understand the difficulty of just trying to decrease the gap and see if it resolves the issue. If not you can always re-gap again. It won't hurt...
 
You obviously don't get it. Once you reach a certain horsepower per cubic inch the reliability drastically decreases. You seem to treat the car like it is still in a 16g. Stop rapping on your car like you're Mario andretti.

Yes, you're the only one. I deal with much more powerful cars than you have and don't nitpick and document everything about the car. Granted I have kept the same game plan for a very long time and don't have too many surprises these days. If you don't want problems, turn the car down. Plain and simple. Or stop flooring the car everywhere you go. You cannot deny you do, you document your every move for all of us to see.
Ive kept my mouth shut for along time.....honestly if you dont have anything productive to say than dont say it I dont give a shit how many 1000hp cars you may have built. Its always comes to that, I dont understand why some people have such a f***ing problem.
 
BRB... Need to go get the popcorn ready... This is about to get good. :cool:

I don't understand the difficulty of just trying to decrease the gap and see if it resolves the issue. If not you can always re-gap again. It won't hurt...
I have, its the first thing I did...I also removed the fuse from the cdi, plugged the stock coils back in. Replaced the plugs with a new set. The only thing I didnt do is replace the wires, the oldest piece of equipment on my car mind you. Im almost 100% sure its the wires.
 
I have, its the first thing I did...I also removed the fuse from the cdi, plugged the stock coils back in. Replaced the plugs with a new set. The only thing I didnt do is replace the wires, the oldest piece of equipment on my car mind you. Im almost 100% sure its the wires.
Do you have a lot of underhood temp? My NGK wires crapped after a few months, I didn't figure it out until I accidently left a shop rag on them, they were arcing onto the bottom of my hood. New wires were amazing even tho mine weren't old, they had been pretty dam hot tho.
 
Do you have a lot of underhood temp? My NGK wires crapped after a few months, I didn't figure it out until I accidently left a shop rag on them, they were arcing onto the bottom of my hood. New wires were amazing even tho mine weren't old, they had been pretty dam hot tho.
Yes, it gets hot...the wires are lit man they are like 4 years old.....
 
I found mine on accident. I have since wrapped my header, dp, and licp along with a cheap blanket and the temps went down dramatically.
I probably need to change wires again, LOL.
 
yup, well my turbo manifold is wrapped, i have an expensive ass turbo blanket , downpipe is wrapped. I do have mishimoto fans....which im hearing arent the greatest. Havent verified any airflow number though. i was looking at spal fans and they arent cheap
 
The car is a work in progress obviously. The plan is to keep the setup as is for the timing being until I get my drivetrain figured out. Once i get the dogbox in then ill be happy. The dyno was literally the first time the car has seen 8k in 3rd gear. I still havent launched the car, im pretty confident the transmission would explode. The sti I just sold took so much abuse, the 6 speed in those cars is bullet proof. I launched that car soooo hard at around 450whp , didnt break a sweat.
 
Big difference. My car used to take forever to cool off after a hard run or even idling the fan would run for what seemed like forver. This was with a shroud and ducting also. Now it comes on and the temp starts to drop instantly. Im also on a half rad so its a pita
 
I run Spal's. Yeah there not cheap but they work well. What is cheap on these cars tho? Everythings a hundo....except sparkplugs :) His blanket should keep heat off the radiator and coolant, it does mine.
 
When i had a full rad i wired the driver fan to run constantly. It kept the turbo heat from soaking into the coolant.
Your running a half rad?Jeez what kind of temps do u see? At cruise lately i hover around 203-206....when I do consecutive pulls the car will hit 212 and drop down quickly.
 
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Innovation Products Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications MyMitsubishiStore.com RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Vendor Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top