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91 GVR4 #476/2K "Project Edward"

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I t holds power but I don't really like it too much since it completely changed my clutch geometry by needing way more room to completely disengage. I might go to a 2900PP and see whether that can hold some power so I can save myself that extra 300#.
 
3200PP? Jeebus. You have got to have the left leg of a muay thai fighter. :p



Always a great build, diambo. Love your cars. Please stay around forever, as we need all the OGs to stay! Evos suck! :p


LOL. I didn't see this so I never responded to it. The effort is actually not bad. The main issue with the clutch is it changes the clutch geometry so much that it becomes a real bi*** to release the disc correctly especially at high rpm. The loading point also moved closer to the floor substantially. That was the one very big disadvantage about this clutch. Power-wise, it holds great. Thanks for the good comments. :)
 
Same one that was in it. Cometic. Forgot....L19s are also going in. It had regular ARPs.


I am now running a Mitsu MLS with an o-ringed head (w/SS wire.) Holds much better than the Cometic ever did....by far. Oh..and I tried both Cometics...the 1.3mm and the 1.6mm.
 
Do you know if you suffered a knock event or were your peak cylinder pressures just too high?


Perhaps. I run a lot of timing but that is what the car likes. It makes more and more power on the dyno. I see no detonation activity. Plugs are always clean.
 
Which head gasket were you running?


Was a Cometic. Went through lots of issues with head gaskets last year. I had Darren Thomas prep my head a new and he o-ringed it for me. He recommended the o-ring and bam! No HG issues. :) I have however shredded 2-3 trannies since? LOL I have been advised to stop making unnecessary or any 3rd gear pulls especially from low rpm. I intend to heed this advice.
 
Was a Cometic. Went through lots of issues with head gaskets last year. I had Darren Thomas prep my head a new and he o-ringed it for me. He recommended the o-ring and bam! No HG issues. :) I have however shredded 2-3 trannies since? LOL I have been advised to stop making unnecessary or any 3rd gear pulls especially from low rpm. I intend to heed this advice.

Yeah, I have yet to see a good budget solution for the weak trannies. Even when you pay for the 'built' options they tend to have a definite life cycle. I will probably sit down and do some math on how long I plan to have mine, figure out the cost vs. life of rebuilds against cost vs. life of straight cut and make a decision from there.
 
How do you like the 3200 clutch set up? I just put 3200/6 puck sprung in mine but haven't had the chance to drive it yet.

I like it. Holds power great. You may need to shim the pivot ball. Sorry didn't get notification of your post.
 
Not really updated this thread in over a year but car runs good. I have had numerous issues with 2000cc injectors clogging up so I returned to my trusty 1600cc (PTE) injectors. I really have not tracked the car at all because my clutch sucks and does not want to release like I want it to and I can never get time to get on the dyno. However, car runs just fine! I refreshed the bottom end around December. It now has King bearings in it now and I swapped out the crank after not liking how the journals looked. I do have my 1G that I have not touched yet..but have been slowly buying parts for. :)
 
I really have not tracked the car at all because my clutch sucks and does not want to release like I want it to and I can never get time to get on the dyno.

I got tired of the same thing, and went twin disc. The car shifts flawlessly now, but driving on the street isn't nearly as enjoyable as it used to be. It's always a give and take, but I'd rather have the car shift when I want it to.
 
The heavy singles will shift, you just need to fix the pedals and hydraulic system. I've had a lot of clutches. Included a tilton carbon twin, and a quartermaster. My favorite clutch has been an ACT2900 and a solid hub street disc. Pedal pressure kinda sucks, but it drives nice, launches smooth, and shifts way better than a qm, and almost as good as my tilton.
 
The heavy singles will shift, you just need to fix the pedals and hydraulic system.

"fix the pedals"
Is that this?:
"Description:
Once installed new motor with new clutch there was not
enough travel on the clutch adjustment. Had to pull out the
clutch pedal assembly and add a nut to the clevis."

This was on an ACT MB1-XTSS.
 
That is the plan. What twin do you have Brett
Running the Quarter Master 7.25″ Gear-Drive 6-Leg Street Twin Disk custom spec'd by TMZ for the Galant. I hear the 8 leg is a bit smoother, so if you're getting into a twin I'd look at the 8 leg.



My favorite clutch has been an ACT2900 and a solid hub street disc. Pedal pressure kinda sucks, but it drives nice, launches smooth, and shifts way better than a qm, and almost as good as my tilton
You forgot to mention all the extra modifications you had to do to make an ACT clutch shift better than a QM twin. Once you actually outline what "fixing the pedals" entails, people will see there's a lot of work to be done before an ACT shifts worth a damn at redline. My QM twin shifts awesome. Way better than any ACT I've ever had, especially at high RPM. The only thing I miss about the ACT was how tame it was to drive on the street. Admittedly, the QM twin is an ass pain to drive on the street.
 
Not to keep blowing up the post, but fixing the pedals really isn't a lot of work. It's no more work than welding them really. Depending on what your doing, it might not even need the wilwood master. I can tell you it shifts better than my qm. I've logged sub 300ms shifts on a 2900/street disc and 7 season old synchros. And the drive ability of a street disc is amazing compared to the qm/twin. Launching sucks on a qm/twin.

The twin is mega expensive too. A lot of guys say "they are cheap to rebuild" they are not. By the time the disc's are shot, so is the cover, the floater, the pressure plate, and probably your input shaft LOL - even with the new gear drive ones. Ohh, all your synchros are beat to piss too, unless you got the heavy flywheel.

The 8 stand is not any smoother. You might get a little better life out of the cover, but it won't be smoother.
 
fixing the pedals really isn't a lot of work.

Post up the secret then? Not talking shit, I'm legitimately wanting to know what it takes to make a modded bastardized clutch setup shift up in the Rs. I've ran a fair share of ACT discs and pressure plates...Among other single disk clutches. Sprung hubs, solid hubs, various pressure plates, custom slave and clutch master rods, shimmed pivot, etc. None of that shit worked. The only thing that worked was installing a twin.
 
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