Has anyone installed the new Greddy Profec OLED in a 1G? Looking for ideas on where they mounted it and any installation issues that arose. I am about to install on my car this weekend. Any boost and gain setting suggestions for my 92 talon with a 16G turbo, ported and internally polished 2G exhaust manifold, stock exhaust and injectors, magnecor wires, ngk plugs, custom air box, K&N, titanium valves, springs & retainers, eneos oil, red line synthetics in all diffs and trans. A lot of suspension and brake work. Symborski and smooth shift kit, extended plunger on shifter. Stock clutch and trans. Any suggestions will be appreciated!

Symborski will definitely help you break shift forks over time. The dampening of stock shift bushings does no harm to the system unless you have a janky system like worn out bushings, worn out shift cables, improper shift cable bracket, worn out syncros, worn out clutch parts, improperly bled clutch hydraulics, etc. Just throwing that out there.

Without knowing what a profec can do, I would suggest setting it up to do the most boost it can without breaking traction at each rpm. If it can do gear based boost control then you could set it up to be just under traction loss power levels in every gear. You can probably see why lack of gear based control would suck for rolling into 4th gear vs. 1st gear when the full boost isn't allowed until a higher rpm than the motor would hit on it's own.

With that said, I was told by someone that had a much faster car than mine still is today over 10 years ago that EBC's are not good for much other than "showing off". Why would you ever want to run less boost? You turn the boost up as much as it can go and drive the car with an MBC. Of course, to each their own, but as I became wiser and learned more I realized how right he was.

Back in the day when e85 wasn't around, people made a big deal about the ebc because you had your pump gas boost level, then your race gas boost. It was considered really cool to be able to switch between the two. Plus, if you ever lost it was because you hadn't turned your boost up yet. If you won, the scrub wasn't even worth you turning it up.

No help on installing unfortunately OP. Follow the directions and it should be fairly straight forward.

I would highly recommend using ecmlink as your tuning solution and use their boost control. @GST with PSI can explain the benefits deeper. I will be going to this as well in the near future.

As for shifter bushings causing broken shift girl: really? As long as you're trans cables are adjusted properly, you shift correctly and arent trying to power shift a stock trans at 15k rpm, you should have no issues with the symborski kit. I have them and granted my stock rubber bushings were worn, but the feel through my shifter compared to friends dsms w/o the solids, is much tighter and more precise.

As for EBC's vs MBC's: mbcs are great, I currently run a hallman pro w/ in cab controller, and it works just fine. But an EBC has many advantages: in car tuning (not all mbc' s can do this easily), boost by gear (great for traction limits), and most importantly in my book, consistent boost levels as long as tuning is correct.

My biggest reason for wanting to switch is boost variation from my mbc. I set it at 19psi one day, and another, or even just later that day, I only hit 16.5-17psi. Then if I drive in the cool air that night, all the sudden I can peg 21-22psi, all due to atmospheric changes, temp swing and air density. The MBC can't account for these, where an EBC if tuned correctly will give you the same boost level you program, every time, given no tuning or system limitations. A mbc is great for a daily just tooling around, but if you want to race anything more than one or two track nights or actually be competitive, and have rock steady boost every time, an EBC is a great addition to an upgrade list.

I don't see why your car wouldn't be tuned for 22psi even if you have it set for a lower boost level. Even if my car spikes to a higher boost the AFR and timing is still fine and .... no big deal. I've actually, recently, considered removing the boost gauge from my car because what's it for? I don't need to see what boost my car is hitting and I don't need it to diagnose if my car isn't doing something right, you can see all of that in the logs.

Stock shifter bushings are like "suspension" for your transmission. When you change them to solid mounts you are more or less taking whatever dampening that was there out. Again, if you want to treat your transmissions like that I cannot stop you and I know that many people won't listen to advice because in the car community where people do their own work and tuning everyone is a genius with the final word. Just because it didn't break within 5k miles doesn't mean the wear on the parts isn't accelerated.

In closing, it always amazes me how one dude thinks he's smarter than an entire team of paid engineers at Mitsubishi. You can play the "stock car" vs. "modified car" all day too but there are plenty of things on these cars from the factory that handle every power level. For instance, the stock timing tensioner. Go look online and you will sure as hell see that people are selling solid "adjustable" tensioners and I'm sure people are also buying them thinking they've inherited some sort of benefit by making the purchase. I'm sorry, not sorry, about whizzing on the parade w/ the solid shifter bushings. I don't expect you to go back to stock tomorrow but when your trans is grinding before your friends' trans you can chalk this up as one of the reasons this potentially happened when everything else checks out as within service limit.