I doubt it would make a difference.

If that is an interference engine no this will not work. For sure it will not work on 4g63. If you turn the crank and the cans are still you will likely bend valves. You need to reinstall the belt if this is an interference motor

Whoops, didn't see that. Sorry.

Yes it is an interference engine. Just got done replacing the head gasket, entire timing system including the water pump, and the front axle. Now I just need to replace the crankshaft seal. So to be crystal clear, i need to reinstall the timing belt and remove the vice grips (ensuring that the timing marks line up) and then i put my breaker bar on the crankshaft bolt, make sure its snug against the ground, then pop the starter for about a second or two?

Make sure the engine can't start by whatever means necessary

Ok i got the timing belt back on, how do i get the crankshaft pulley bolt off. I just cheked to make sure but the engine is at top dead center. Now can i bump the starter?

Heres a pic of it

Unfortunately the head of the bolt is pretty worn already. Ive got a 24 inch long 1/2 inch breaker bar but the socket is a 12 point and i tried every way I could to get it locked into place so I can bump the starter but no luck, im gonna just go buy a pneumatic drill and compresser and return them the same day. Unless anyone has any other bright ideas cuz otherwise im calling it a night.

The DSM manuals say if the cams are at the tdc timing marks, you can turn the crank and it won't hit any valves, that is without the timing belt on.
I would be scared to spin motor with the starter though. Turn it slowly by hand first

Looks like a ring spanner might fit on jcolby. They twist less and stay aligned better. I use a axle stand to put the other end of the spanner on. Preload the spanner by turning the motor by hand,make sure all is looking good and aligned and square.
Then tickle that starter.

Electric impact is your friend. This will pay for itself over and over....and they are not expensive.

diambo4life said:

Electric impact is your friend. This will pay for itself over and over....and they are not expensive.

Click to expand...

So you would go with the electric over pneumatic?

Pneumatic is best, but not everyone has access to air. Almost everyone has access to electricity....well, I hope.

diambo4life said:

Pneumatic is best, but not everyone has access to air. Almost everyone has access to electricity....well, I hope.

Click to expand...

Man, what place doesn't have air? Hey oh! I've never heard of an electric impact though. I'll have to check that out

Ok so I bought both . The electric on says it only goes up to 230 ft lbs though....the pneumatic one goes up to 585 ft lbs, assuming I have a compresser that can handle it. What size compresser do I need? Also I want to make sure I dont mess up my engine so will someone confirm what I'm supposed to do? Right now the car is up on jack stands with the engine supported. The intake, serpentine belt, and alternator are out and the timing cover is off. Ive got the crankshaft pulley off, and now all thats left is the bolt in the center holding the crankshaft in place in front of the oil seal I need to change. I put the timing belt back on because you guys told me to, but I can take it back off if need be (which I will obviously have to do when I pull the crankshaft to get to the oil seal because the belt is around it, and yes I know to hold the cam gears in place with vice grips and to make sure the engine is at tdc) but here is my concern. What if the bolt doesnt break loose and it spins my crankshaft at a high speed? Should my car be in neutral or should I put it in gear? Sorry for the long post.

Ok i got the seal replaced and everything put back together but i was having a hard time tightening the crankshaft bolt back on. Can i just put the car in gear while its off and try that? Or will the bolt tighten itself as i drive?

Yep. Plus handbrake.
Try a few different gears, or can jam brakes on as well. Use a helper, or something to hold brake pedal down. Maybe between seat and brake pedal. I push brake pedal down and use a hammer handle under clutch pedal, under accelerator pedal and above brake pedal.
Remove brake light switch if brake lights flatten battery.

Bolt will not self tighten. Ever!