gsxitement said:

Yeah man. Almost picking up the inside rear wheel. Almost. Can't wait to go back out.

Click to expand...

Nah you had a long way off yet before you got air haha

Simple,clean and cheap, and studs wont come out.
SAFETY WIRE

Are you using 2 of the OEM washers? Or just one? I've had issues with customers coming in with only 1 conical washer per bolt. They're double stacked from the factory, and they work together much better double stacked. Which hotside are you using?

ec17pse said:

Nah you had a long way off yet before you got air haha

Click to expand...

Don't crush my dreams!!!!!!!

Tyeler18 said:

Are you using 2 of the OEM washers? Or just one? I've had issues with customers coming in with only 1 conical washer per bolt. They're double stacked from the factory, and they work together much better double stacked. Which hotside are you using?

Click to expand...

I have an Archer Fabrications Manifold. I'm not on anything even approaching stock stuff. But thank you for the information. It'll come in handy if I ever eventually downgrade to something a little more responsive than a ball bearing 6076

gsxitement said:

Don't crush my dreams!!!!!!!

Click to expand...

D'oh sorry just retract what i said then! It never happened ha.

arrowhead said:

Simple,clean and cheap, and studs wont come out.
SAFETY WIRE

Click to expand...

It crossed my mind to do that as well. I'm gonna try something a little easier and cheaper before I buy all the tooling and jigs for safety wire. But, if what I'm trying doesn't work......safety wire WILL be the order of the day.

ec17pse said:

D'oh sorry just retract what i said then! It never happened ha.

Click to expand...

It never happened. Just like me lifting the inside rear wheel

Ive had issues with my turbo bolts backing out also so I safety wired everything and didnt have any issues after five track days but blew the motor the last time out so after I took everything apart I found even though everthing was still wired up and no signs of leaks the bolts barely took any force to undo.

The extreme heat expanded and contracted them so much that well they were up to the task any more. I think I used grade 8 bolts, next time I would try something different.

Safety wire isnt that expensive, you can buy bolts that are already drilled from mcmastercarr or airframe bolts from pegasusautoracing.com

Tires, go with nto1's. Theyre great tire for the price and last if you take care of them.

Xska555 said:

Ive had issues with my turbo bolts backing out also so I safety wired everything and didnt have any issues after five track days but blew the motor the last time out so after I took everything apart I found even though everthing was still wired up and no signs of leaks the bolts barely took any force to undo.

The extreme heat expanded and contracted them so much that well they were up to the task any more. I think I used grade 8 bolts, next time I would try something different.

Safety wire isnt that expensive, you can buy bolts that are already drilled from mcmastercarr or airframe bolts from pegasusautoracing.com

Tires, go with nto1's. Theyre great tire for the price and last if you take care of them.

Click to expand...

Not really interested in NT01's. Most likely gonna go with R7's. Possibly A7's, but R7's will last longer. And that's why I'm looking at Inconel studs if the ones I get from Archer still don't work.

Both are great tires.

Xska555 said:

Both are great tires.

Click to expand...

Absolutely. But I'm getting beat by guys on R7's. Gotta try and level the playing field.

RE71's....

slowwhite said:

RE71's....

Click to expand...

Had them. Loved them. But I'm getting outrun by guys on dot slicks. Gotta level the playing field.

gsxitement said:

Not really interested in NT01's. Most likely gonna go with R7's. Possibly A7's, but R7's will last longer. And that's why I'm looking at Inconel studs if the ones I get from Archer still don't work.

Click to expand...

I'm like 95% sure wrenching in a titanium stud with an alan key will lock them into the manifold pretty darn good. They are hard to get out after putting them in on other flanges, even though they dont have a torque tube they still snug in very very tight

Archer Fabrications said:

I'm like 95% sure wrenching in a titanium stud with an alan key will lock them into the manifold pretty darn good. They are hard to get out after putting them in on other flanges, even though they dont have a torque tube they still snug in very very tight

Click to expand...

Locktite. Lock washers, Allen key. Safety wire. Cotter pin. Weld! Whatever I gotta do .

Looking at this, i had the same issue, i tried with cooper washers, with stainless steel studs, with loctite, and also to make the exhaust fixing points more flexible, Only the last action makes an improvement. At least i was able to finish the complete track day without issues. But it happen again at the highway. (i don't touched the bolts or nuts after the trackday).

TAMA_player said:

Looking at this, i had the same issue, i tried with cooper washers, with stainless steel studs, with loctite, and also to make the exhaust fixing points more flexible, Only the last action makes an improvement. At least i was able to finish the complete track day without issues. But it happen again at the highway. (i don't touched the bolts or nuts after the trackday).

Click to expand...

My exhaust is pretty flexible. It's got a flex pipe and it's hung on rubber hangers. Working on some things. Appreciate the first hand experience insight!

I know this is a little unrelated, but I had consistent problems with my exhaust manifold studs and nuts coming loose from the head after installing my FP manifold. After trying all kinds of shenanigans I stumbled upon an article which recommended replacing the nut with a simple home depot grade 8 (or whatever they have) flange nut, lock washer then regular washer on each ss stud. They actually recommended the cheaper hardware over ss. This combo eliminated the problem. Before that I had to wire the top nuts since they'd vibrate loose very quickly.

How about a dab of jb weld on the bolt head or nut? Or better yet, steel stick? It's not rated for exhaust components, but many people have used it temporarily. Should be good for a race at least. Good thing about steel stick is it dries in 5 min. Or even a blob of copper rtv. I have a broken exhaust stud on my head I just squirted some copper rtv on there and it actually sealed the leak until I get the stud out; holding up for at least a month.

Great to see a DSM at Pocono. Is that a Porsche cayenne (or whatever their lunch box is called) behind you? Lol did they at least take the child seats out first?

PlanZero said:

I know this is a little unrelated, but I had consistent problems with my exhaust manifold studs and nuts coming loose from the head after installing my FP manifold. After trying all kinds of shenanigans I stumbled upon an article which recommended replacing the nut with a simple home depot grade 8 (or whatever they have) flange nut, lock washer then regular washer on each ss stud. They actually recommended the cheaper hardware over ss. This combo eliminated the problem. Before that I had to wire the top nuts since they'd vibrate loose very quickly.

How about a dab of jb weld on the bolt head or nut? Or better yet, steel stick? It's not rated for exhaust components, but many people have used it temporarily. Should be good for a race at least. Good thing about steel stick is it dries in 5 min. Or even a blob of copper rtv. I have a broken exhaust stud on my head I just squirted some copper rtv on there and it actually sealed the leak until I get the stud out; holding up for at least a month.

Great to see a DSM at Pocono. Is that a Porsche cayenne (or whatever their lunch box is called) behind you? Lol did they at least take the child seats out first?

Click to expand...

!! Yeah I do believe the child seat was out. When I went out for the first session, I was doing a lead follow with a guy that new the track to learn the line, and the guy in the Porsche felt we were going too slow for him. He was driving very douchy and aggressive. Once I went out to lead, I never saw him again . Thanks for the input and your experience. Was what you did to keep the nuts loosening up? Or to keep the studs from falling out? I only ask cause after my first issue, I put some Grade 8 bolts in there with some lock washers and locktite, but they still came out in a matter of laps. Hopefully we can figure it out before August. Thanks again!

gsxitement said:

!! Yeah I do believe the child seat was out. When I went out for the first session, I was doing a lead follow with a guy that new the track to learn the line, and the guy in the Porsche felt we were going too slow for him. He was driving very douchy and aggressive. Once I went out to lead, I never saw him again . Thanks for the input and your experience. Was what you did to keep the nuts loosening up? Or to keep the studs from falling out? I only ask cause after my first issue, I put some Grade 8 bolts in there with some lock washers and locktite, but they still came out in a matter of laps. Hopefully we can figure it out before August. Thanks again!

Click to expand...

My studs would occasionally loosen, but the main problem was the nuts just wouldn't stay snug against the FP flange, so by securing the nuts the studs stayed put.

If you dont already have one I'd fab up a support bracket for the turbo, even utilizing the PS or front hoist bracket. If I were you I'd use copper or red rtv (if that doesn't work, jb weld) on the (10.9 or harder) bolt/stud threads. You can still break them loose but it's more secure than loctite. Will also make a nice tight connection if the mounting holes on the turbo are starting to stretch.

PlanZero said:

My studs would occasionally loosen, but the main problem was the nuts just wouldn't stay snug against the FP flange, so by securing the nuts the studs stayed put.

If you dont already have one I'd fab up a support bracket for the turbo, even utilizing the PS or front hoist bracket. If I were you I'd use copper or red rtv (if that doesn't work, jb weld) on the (10.9 or harder) bolt/stud threads. You can still break them loose but it's more secure than loctite. Will also make a nice tight connection if the mounting holes on the turbo are starting to stretch.

Click to expand...

The reason I won't put a support bracket on the turbo is cause it won't allow the system to expand with heat. Archer Fabrications recommended not using any kind of bracket. We're gonna try some studs that Archer has to see if it fixes the problem

I have yet to do a race session on it but I DD my eclipse often due to nice weather.

But I had issues with 3 of my exhaust manifold to head ARP nuts version 1 and version 2, all on the driverside (the big 12mm one, and then the first top and bottom 10mm nuts)
What finally stopped them from backing put was orange RTV around the end of the stud/nut.
So far about 2000 miles of DD no issues

slowwhite said:

I have yet to do a race session on it but I DD my eclipse often due to nice weather.

But I had issues with 3 of my exhaust manifold to head ARP nuts version 1 and version 2, all on the driverside (the big 12mm one, and then the first top and bottom 10mm nuts)
What finally stopped them from backing put was orange RTV around the end of the stud/nut.
So far about 2000 miles of DD no issues

Click to expand...

Awesome! I have the copper nuts with the slice at the top on the head flange of the manifold, and I never have had a problem on that side of the manifold. Hopefully these new studs work and we can get there and not have issues.