The Top DSM Community on the Web

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. Log in to remove most ads.

Please Support Morrison Fabrications
Please Support ExtremePSI

HELP (advice)...Weird ACT Wear Patterns

This site may earn a commission from merchant
affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

kmetiuk

10+ Year Contributor
521
125
Mar 10, 2010
Edmonton, AB_Canada
I'm in the middle of planning my engine build and when I dissembled the clutch I found that my ACT 2600 PP had uneven wear on it.

Background:
This was/is a ACT 2600 with a street disc mated to a stock flywheel. The flywheel was not resurfaced (at a shop anyways) when I installed it but it was in a car I bought from a much older gentlemen who is a Proff at a University so he likely wasn't racing and being mean to it. The car had 130,000km's or 81,000 miles. Everything in the car was mechanically sound minus the rusted out frame. The flywheel looked fine when I installed the ACT and I roughed up the surface of the flywheel to knock off the any glazing (as per jafro vids). I drove HARD on this clutch and had some terrible launches that overheated the clutch no more than 5 times until I figure out how do it properly (learning still). I got around 16,000 km's (or 10,000 miles) on it before my 7-bolt let go and I pulled it to build my 6-bolt up.

Disclaimer: To me this clutch has a lot of heat spots on it and I know I overheated the shiiit out of it a few times so its in need of some love.


When I measured the clutch disc I found that it had taper to it and the ouside edge was worn down to just before where the ACT service limit was on it. B/c it was tapered I checked the flywheel and the PP for taper and both had a slight taper to it as well so I'm guessing that I should have resurfaced the flywheel flat the first go around.

1st question: should a PP have a taper to it all? This was a brand new ACT and its only had 1 street disc in it ever and the KM's seem to low to me to have a taper to it. Do PP have a taper on them when they are unloaded and out of the car? I would think it should be flat no? I am curious as the spring in it could be causing deflection in it when unloaded but I am not sure and am learning still.

2nd question: From the pics below (specifically the 2nd pic where I outlined in red) I found that the PP has worn semi evenly. In the outlined pic you can still see the original machining on it. What would cause the uneven weird wear and what can I do to fix it? When I installed it I made damn sure to clean the flywheel "step" surfaces off and also made sure there was nothing in between the PP mounting points and the flywheel. It was toruqed properly in sequence and I made sure to hand tighten all the bolts all around in sequence to marry the PP to flywheel in a parallel manner. I also was very easy on the clutch at the beginning and broke it in properly and then after about 2000 kms tried some launches. To me the PP should have worn evenly all over (even with the taper).

You must be logged in to view this image or video.


This is where the eneven wear is....you can still see the original maching marks. Seems weird to me that I would go through a whole street clutch disc and there still see some machining marks in the PP.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.


You must be logged in to view this image or video.


You must be logged in to view this image or video.


You must be logged in to view this image or video.


You must be logged in to view this image or video.


You must be logged in to view this image or video.


You must be logged in to view this image or video.


Finger wear is very very minimal....it looks (is) near brand new looking still.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.


You must be logged in to view this image or video.



Lemme know what you think...any and all criticismm, ideas, and comments are welcome. Be harsh as I need to learn here and I do not want to burn out a another disc prematurely.
 
Was it broke in properly is my first question?
Second, why would you install a new clutch and not have a TRUE mating surface? That could be the cause of the outter section of flywheel not wearing same as the other sections.

As stated above yes I did. about 2000kms of city driving where I was very gentle on it. No excessive slipping or hard clutch drops....just reg stop and go traffic. It was still on the T25 and stock boost so no crazy tq lvls either.

Ya, I'm dumb and should have gotten the surface trued up on the flywheel. That will be done this time around. I have a fidanza alum fly that came with the 6-bolt so I'm gonna get it trued up or just by a new plate for it and see if that's flat....if not I'll get it trued up. Wont make that mistake again.

That taper on the outter edge of the flywheel still didn't wear the machining marks out of the PP tho which is what I find weird. Its got 10K miles on it so I feel it should have no machining marks left on the PP.
 
E
Was clutch readjusted after break in and was pp cleaned with brake cleaner before installing?


Everything was throughly cleaned with brake cleaner yes.

I was noob to clutches back then and my knowledge is still somewhat limited with DSM clutch adjustment so no, it wasn't readujsted.

By "adjusting" you are talking about the MC rod and shimming the pivot ball to get the correct travel of the pedal and to place the fork in the center right?
 
Okay good. The hot spot pattern has me kinda stumped. Yes as well as pedal to rod assembly under dash.

Ya me too....hahaha.

Its funny its shaped like that....i think it would go from inner edge to outer if it was wapred but i'm guessing there too.
 
I'm sure flywheel isn't true but that's doesn't account for the little hot spots in that pattern. Have any clutch chatter or vibrations before you pulled it?

No not at all. It gripped good and shifted nice...no dragging or anything. I was making 400 ftlbs or anything (stock T25) so I'm sure its wasn't even close to testing the limits.

Here's a bit more info:
I blew my 7-bolt that this was in and dropped a used motor I found locally to replace it. When I took it off I switched this PP onto that engine as it had some other PP....I liked the ACT and the other was an unknown part. I did not notice the wear pattern at the time b/c I was hurrying due to no car. The 6-bolt had a CM FX400 Pressure Plate CM 4 Puck Sprung Clutch Disk. So I was like "fcuk it, i'll try the 4 buck out". I put that in there but had issues with the motor after about 2-3 weeks or something.....say about 1500km's or so. That chattered like crazy and took some gettng used to, but after I got the hang of the new feel of the 4 Puck it was fine.

So when I pulled the 6-bolt issues I noticed the wear marks, I found the ACT disc was near the service limit, I put the CM400 and 4 puck back in with the 6-bolt.

That 4-puck wasn't able to put any wear marks in the ACT PP either.

I just find it weird street disc and a 4-puck did not make contact with such a significant area on the face of the PP.
 
You stated your problem. you didn't surface the flywheel. I don't see any mystery to solve here. Surfaces weren't true and you got uneven wear. Have the surfaces machined or buy new parts.
 
You stated your problem. you didn't surface the flywheel. I don't see any mystery to solve here. Surfaces weren't true and you got uneven wear. Have the surfaces machined or buy new parts.


So you think the uneven surface of the flywheel was to blame?

Not trying to argue I just want to learn......wouldn't an uneven flywheel surface affect the wear pattern on the flywheel side and not the PP?

I feel that an uneven fly would just wear the friction disc prematurely (which it did) and make a weird heat mark pattern which it didnt, as i roughed up the fly (as per a Jafro vid) to help with break in and those marks are all gone. The PP having a weird pattern makes me thing the PP wasn't machined flat out of the box. I'm just trying to explore all options.
 
So you think the uneven surface of the flywheel was to blame?

Not trying to argue I just want to learn......wouldn't an uneven flywheel surface affect the wear pattern on the flywheel side and not the PP?

I feel that an uneven fly would just wear the friction disc prematurely (which it did) and make a weird heat mark pattern which it didnt, as i roughed up the fly (as per a Jafro vid) to help with break in and those marks are all gone. The PP having a weird pattern makes me thing the PP wasn't machined flat out of the box. I'm just trying to explore all options.
You have no way of knowing for sure but given the description I'd say you already found your problem. Make sure the new parts are flat or machine what you have
 
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Innovation Products Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications MyMitsubishiStore.com RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Vendor Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top