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ECMlink Turned the boost UP.......e85 i love you

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Is it possible that the knock im getting is from to much fuel in the combustion chamber?

Yes, "Rich Knock" is a thing. You'll tend to get it mainly when it dips into the 10's on e85. If its rich knock it'll go away with a small decrease in fuel in that corresponding cell, but if it doesn't disappear after that then it is NOT knock caused by over-enrichment (obviously).

If you are targeting 11-something on your DA tables and you LC1 is reading anything outside of .1-.2 of those values then something is wrong in your global fuel adjustment or the SD table and should be addressed before adjusting for any kind of "rich knock." You'll come to find out that fixing your WBfactor will, in most cases, fix detonation issues in the same corresponding areas.


I also wondering how far the walbro 450 and fic 1650 will get me before i need to go bigger on e85?

Both will tend to start running out around 60 lb/min of airflow. The pump might go to 70 if rewired and the pre-filter lopped off. 1650's will be at 85-90% IDC right around there I would think. Maybe less.

One more thing I forgot to mention the other day:

Don't do your WOT pulls in quick succession like you log suggests. Do a 3rd gear pull then stop and let it cool for a few minutes while you make adjustments, then go back at it. Then when you think everything is on the money, do a 2nd-4th pull and make your last adjustment from there.

Its all about consistency.
 
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Yes, "Rich Knock" is a thing. You'll tend to get it mainly when it dips into the 10's on e85. If its rich knock it'll go away with a small decrease in fuel in that corresponding cell, but if it doesn't disappear after that then it is NOT knock caused by over-enrichment (obviously).

If you are targeting 11-something on your DA tables and you LC1 is reading anything outside of .1-.2 of those values then something is wrong in your global fuel adjustment or the SD table and should be addressed before adjusting for any kind of "rich knock." You'll come to find out that fixing your WBfactor will, in most cases, fix detonation issues in the same corresponding areas.




Both will tend to start running out around 60 lb/min of airflow. The pump might go to 70 if rewired and the pre-filter lopped off. 1650's will be at 85-90% IDC right around there I would think. Maybe less.

One more thing I forgot to mention the other day:

Don't do your WOT pulls in quick succession like you log suggests. Do a 3rd gear pull then stop and let it cool for a few minutes while you make adjustments, then go back at it. Then when you think everything is on the money, do a 2nd-4th pull and make your last adjustment from there.

Its all about consistency.
I'm pretty confident this is what is happening, its very random and occurs at lower Rpms as well and it's not much 1 count etc. I was experiencing this with meth injection, I would experience knock when the meth would spray, I had to remove a lot of fuel to make it go away. I'm planning on lowering the boost to spring pressure which is around 21-22 psi and I'm gunna start over until I get the tune were it should be with no knock. Then and only then will I turn it up.
 
I beleive ive told you this before ;) 10's is crazy rich with e85 or even gas. Gasoline only 11-11.5. Meth injection or e85 12:1. 2g timing table is a good starting table. Once you got your wastegate pressure and stock 2g timing table tuned perfect then adding in boost is easy. With e85 you could prob get away with using the 1g timing table ( e85 magic).
 
I beleive ive told you this before ;) 10's is crazy rich with e85 or even gas. Gasoline only 11-11.5. Meth injection or e85 12:1. 2g timing table is a good starting table. Once you got your wastegate pressure and stock 2g timing table tuned perfect then adding in boost is easy. With e85 you could prob get away with using the 1g timing table ( e85 magic).
Yah i know, its tough trusting it like that. I just gotta suck it up, im probably going to switch to the 1g timing table. See how she does. Gunna take her out tmrw......cant wait. I got a new front o2 sensor......c16 killed it, didnt even notice the voltage wasnt alternating correctly. I got my hands on some ignite 114, aka e100 :sneaky:
 
Yah i know, its tough trusting it like that. I just gotta suck it up, im probably going to switch to the 1g timing table. See how she does. Gunna take her out tmrw......cant wait. I got a new front o2 sensor......c16 killed it, didnt even notice the voltage wasnt alternating correctly. I got my hands on some ignite 114, aka e100 :sneaky:
We have a 55 gal drum of that "magic juice" :cool: :D
At the pressures you are starting to run, either hose clamp or zip tie every vacuum and boost line because they can and WILL come off. Hi boosters know to clamp em all down. :thumb:
 
We have a 55 gal drum of that "magic juice" :cool: :D
At the pressures you are starting to run, either hose clamp or zip tie every vacuum and boost line because they can and WILL come off. Hi boosters know to clamp em all down. :thumb:
I noticed the lines blowing off at about 30psi, I purchased some vacuum lines from extremepsi and they are great, very stretchy...once they are on , there on. The line that blew off was a rubber line from autozone, they are very stiff and come off easy. Im gunna go through everything tmrw and take her out for a rip. Gunna stick with spring pressure and stay there until my tune is perfect.
 
I was thinking about it, how do you run them? I figured since my bov and map sensor have nipples it pointless, if they had npt ports instead I would. Do you run the npt from the manifold to the nipple?
 
Car would run a little warmer than usual, and felt down on power. Figured head gasket. Pulled head, insane pitting on the pistons and on the head on every cylinder. Detonation out the wazoo. Amazingly, the head gasket looked great.
Could you HEAR it at all?? I mean probably not with how loud are cars seem to be but just wondering. On my Small block chevys I can HEAR the knock but I am still only 4 yrs into DSM's. Just wondering.
 
Could you HEAR it at all?? I mean probably not with how loud are cars seem to be but just wondering. On my Small block chevys I can HEAR the knock but I am still only 4 yrs into DSM's. Just wondering.

It was on a launch. I let off the brakes, car launched, and immediately law pow pow pow pow car breaking up bad. I let off asap, but the damage was done. Amazingly, the car idled and drove home fine. Didn't even over heat until the next time I drove it. Even then it was only by a few degrees. Pitting everywhere though.
 
It was on a launch. I let off the brakes, car launched, and immediately law pow pow pow pow car breaking up bad. I let off asap, but the damage was done. Amazingly, the car idled and drove home fine. Didn't even over heat until the next time I drove it. Even then it was only by a few degrees. Pitting everywhere though.
What a shitty was to destroy an engine.
 
That sir is a sad sad story :(
 
I will agree 100% on that, and its a pricey game we're playin here. :ohdamn:
 
I have those exact ones. If you type push to connect fittings on ebay you will see 1000's.

Be careful with the wastegate ones. They get hot and brittle over time. I had to change those fittings and lines every few months. Im in the process of converting them to 3an braided lines. The fpr and bov im keeping push to connect though.
 
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