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2G Battery Relocation - Alternator wires?

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JackStieben

Proven Member
200
21
Feb 11, 2014
San Antonio, Texas
I am in the process of relocating my battery in the cabin. I am extremely illiterate when it comes to electrical jobs and usually require step-by-step instructions to make any sense of it for me. (Damn it Jim. I'm a welder, not an electrician!) I have been attempting to follow Jafros diagram but I am confused as to what to do with the alternator wires.
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I assume the wire from the alternator to the 100a CB are the 2 white wires on the positive connection for the alternator? Are we then bypassing the 100a fuse in the engine bay fusebox? I traced the wires to that fuse, but it appears that the other side of the fuse is connected to the 4 white wires that are shown to lead to the 150A CB, along with the starter positive wire. So my final questions would be:
1. Do I bypass that 100A fuse in the fuse box and replace it with a CB?
2. If I do that, what is the point of the 4 wires in the fuse box?
3. If I don't bypass it, how do I connect alternator to the battery?
 
I am also no exoert but the folks doing my battery relocation (since they are race car builders) are using all my stock wiring and the fuseable links, they told me to ditch the CB's as its not needed. My Fuseable links from the fusebox is going into a distribution block then to its allocated areas,

I believe you need to try keep then links if possible but are ratd to a certain rating and adjusting length or such could result in them blowing or not blowing at its given point to stop from breaking other things.

The CB's they daid was pointless as thas what the fuses are for, i also argued its extra protection bu they said nope they have done loads this way and its been fine for years so i trust them.

Mine is having an FIA kill switch so it kills ignition power and battery aswell so its an all in 1 kill swich and the best type going over just an isolator switch
 
The diagram is showing that you use the wires from the alternator (the two white wires, in your case), go to the inline fuse holder (likely with a 100A fuse, which would be doing the same job as the 100A fuse in the original fuse box), and then to the circuit breakers. With or without the CBs (up to you to use them), the "other side" of the 100A fuse would go to the positive battery terminal.
 
The diagram is showing that you use the wires from the alternator (the two white wires, in your case), go to the inline fuse holder (likely with a 100A fuse, which would be doing the same job as the 100A fuse in the original fuse box), and then to the circuit breakers. With or without the CBs (up to you to use them), the "other side" of the 100A fuse would go to the positive battery terminal.
What is confusing me is that the 2 connections to the 100A fuse in the stock box are the 4 white wires (that go to positive) and the 2 white wires that go to alternator positive connection. So I must splice another wire into the 100A fuse that will lead to 100A CB pictured? From what it seems to me, the alternator goes entirely through the fusebox so why would I even have a separate wire that leads to the positive terminal?
 
The connection to the alternator fuse has only 2 of the 4 white wires going to the positive battery terminal. The other connection with the other 2 white wires gooes to fusible link 2, right next to the alternator fuse. If all 4 wires are going to the alternator fuse location, it is not wired properly.
The white wires from the alternator appear a little off-white to me on the harness I have, compared to the 4 that would go to the positive battery terminal. See below.
Shouldn't have to splice anything. Take the connection from the alternator fuse running to the positive battery terminal and connect it to the CB if that's what you want to do. Then you would need another wire connecting the CB to the next CB or battery positive, whichever you want to do.

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The connection to the alternator fuse has only 2 of the 4 white wires going to the positive battery terminal. The other connection with the other 2 white wires gooes to fusible link 2, right next to the alternator fuse. If all 4 wires are going to the alternator fuse location, it is not wired properly.
The white wires from the alternator appear a little off-white to me on the harness I have, compared to the 4 that would go to the positive battery terminal. See below.
Shouldn't have to splice anything. Take the connection from the alternator fuse running to the positive battery terminal and connect it to the CB if that's what you want to do. Then you would need another wire connecting the CB to the next CB or battery positive, whichever you want to do.

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So I am not touching the connections on the 60A fusible link and 100A alternator "choke" (how it's printed on the fuse box cover)? The 4 white wires that run to terminal is then lengthened, attached to circuit breaker, then to positive battery terminal? What is left with the 2 wires coming from the alternator themselves? Those are already wired to the fuse that's being sent to the positive terminal, am I wrong? The Jafro diagram shows it as a completely different wire running to a different circuit breaker.
 
I guess it may help if you let us know what you are trying to accomplish and what safety standards you need to meet. If it is simply relocating the battery, the only thing you need to do with respect to the alternator is increase the length of the 2-wire connections from fuse box to the positive battery terminal, wherever it ends up. All the circuit breakers and other things in that diagram, I'm sure, are for a purpose but are unnecessary for a simple battery relocation.

Now if it is a racing application and you must meet some codes for safety, you'll need to tell us what those are.
 
Maybe I am just overthinking this... I am making the car into a 450~whp street car that I can occasionally take to my local drag strip. From what I understand, tech inspection is pretty relaxed at San Antonio Raceway so I could probably get away with any setup as long as it doesn't look jimmy-rigged. So I am just extending the 4 white wires coming from fusebox to the positive terminal?
 
Yes, that's all what you need to do, if I were you, I would use one thicker wire from the battery to the fuse box and split it at the end to for both connections (fuse box side).

If you are worried about the wire shorting out, I would install another fuse at the other end (battery side).
 
I used this setup that turbosax2 showed how to do, and is working great. You can also get some idea of how he did it on page 18. Since you will be going to the local drag strip you should put in a kill switch, in case you get a tech inspector that won't let you race without one.
Those 2 white wires coming from the alternator to fuse box, you can get rid of those now as they will not do anything anymore. What I did with the 4 white wires from the fuse box going to the battery, I removed the those 4 wires, and replaced them with 2 4guage wires going to my 150amp distribution box. I do not remember how they looked before but I have 2 pics that show what they look like now.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/my-fuse-box-relocation-project-log.298569/page-19#post-152022910
 

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^That. I do not have access to the current rule book, but I'm sure most of the rules in regards to battery relocations probably haven't changed. Most people with these "diagrams" are ensuring they meet whatever standards set by the NHRA. You can chance getting by tech at your drag strip but be aware that:
From: Correct way to wire battery cutoff switch.

8.4 MASTER CUTOFF
Mandatory when battery is relocated, or as outlined in Class Requirements. An electrical power cutoff switch (one only) must be installed on the rearmost part of each vehicle and be easily accessible from outside the car body. This cutoff switch must be connected to the positive side of the electrical system and must stop all electrical functions including magneto ignition. The external control switch for this cutoff switch will be clearly indicated by a red flash inside a white-edged blue triangle with a base of at least 12 cm (see drawing 25). The positions must be clearly indicated with the word "OFF". If switch is "push/pull" type, push must be the action for shutting off the electrical system, pull to turn it on. Any rods or cables used to activate the switch must be minimum 1/8-inch (3.2 mm) diameter. Plastic or keyed switches prohibited. Switches and/or controls must be located behind rear wheels on rear engine dragsters.
 
I am in the process of relocating my battery in the cabin. I am extremely illiterate when it comes to electrical jobs and usually require step-by-step instructions to make any sense of it for me. (Damn it Jim. I'm a welder, not an electrician!) I have been attempting to follow Jafros diagram but I am confused as to what to do with the alternator wires.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.

I assume the wire from the alternator to the 100a CB are the 2 white wires on the positive connection for the alternator? Are we then bypassing the 100a fuse in the engine bay fusebox? I traced the wires to that fuse, but it appears that the other side of the fuse is connected to the 4 white wires that are shown to lead to the 150A CB, along with the starter positive wire. So my final questions would be:
1. Do I bypass that 100A fuse in the fuse box and replace it with a CB?
2. If I do that, what is the point of the 4 wires in the fuse box?
3. If I don't bypass it, how do I connect alternator to the battery?
I'm just finishing my battery relocation.

DO NOT bypass the 100amp fuse in the fuse box. Let all that be. Run a fused (I used 100amp because I'm using the galant alternator) line (I used 1/0) up to where the battery used to be. Put a T in for starter (I used stinger 1/0), then finish it off with a (1)1/0 to (4)8 gauge distribution block (I used a T-SPEC unit from crutchfield)

THAT IS ALL YOU HAVE TO DO TO START YOUR CAR

IF YOU WANT BETTER FLOW TO THE BATTERY FOR A SYSTEM
Run an additional line (I used 1/0), fused at both ends (I used 100Amp fused because I'm using galant alternator) from the alternator to the battery.
 
Okay so a little off topic but still goes along the lines of battery relocation..
How vital is the white connection that basically separates the rear seats and trunk.
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I am wondering if I can chop out that part to mount my battery where it is. There is not enough room for the battery box to be mounted and have the rear seats fold up too.
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Is that brace holding the car together or is it non important?
 
Well I got everything wired up and the door light came on so I say so far my project was a success. I plan to wire in a kill-switch once everything is back in the car. If I experience any voltage drop once I get the motor back in the car, I'll wire in a ground to lead to the OEM location. But for now I am pleased with how everything came out. Thanks everyone for your help and patience!
 

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