The Top DSM Community on the Web

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. Log in to remove most ads.

Please Support ExtremePSI
Please Support STM Tuned

1G Dynatek arc-2 results/impressions.

This site may earn a commission from merchant
affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

SasaniFab

Proven Member
2,433
782
Dec 1, 2013
Mexico, Connecticut
I have always wanted to upgrade my igniton but never felt that my setup warranted it at the time. After building my shortblock and upgrading my turbo and cams I started to notice some issues in the 7+ rpm range. It felt like "spark blowout" , i did the usual with gaping down my spark plugs but it didnt change anything. From what i understand this term is a misnomer as what is really happening is the ignition system is unable to initiate the spark, nothing is being blown out per say. So yesterday I installed the 2g kit, I removed the a/c fuse box in the upper driver side section of the firewall. The 2g kit comes with a plate that is meant to bolt on to the driver side engine mount, I just bent the tab down and it bolted right in. This location also gives you the perfect reach for the wiring harness. The first time I took the car out I couldnt believe how much smoother the car revved, I was actually shocked.....Maybe its in my head guys, im aware that guys are making big power with the factory ignition. Nothing wrong with giving your stock ignition a little boost. I dont think Id run a setup without one....
 

Attachments

  • IMG_2589.JPG
    IMG_2589.JPG
    261.9 KB · Views: 500
I have always wanted one of these setups, but I had gone through too many threads where guys claimed they had the unit fail on them multiple times. All the reviews say it is an awesome product, it just seems they burn out after some time? I would still love to try one. Just hate to have to buy more than one. I have 3 active 4g63t setups and buying the same things multiple times sucks.
 
I recently installed one as well, and have pretty much the exact same thing as you to say.

I was getting ignition breakup above 30psi, and 6500 rpm no matter what plugs or gap I tried, and Taylor wires. The Dynatek cleared it right up. I'm even able to run .025 gap @ 35psi and it feels like increasing the gap has really improved idle and cruise.

I've seen lots of failures with them too, but it seems Dynatek usually replaces them. I'd have to imagine the heat and vibration of the engine bay is what kills them. I don't like the location and design of the 2g bracket. It gets hot as piss and vibrates quite a bit. I'm gonna come up with something different soon.
 
I think it may have something to do with what fuel you're running. In my experience, I didn't have any problems running pump and race gas 116oct. stock ignition, ngk plugs and wires gt35r 32psi 8000+rpm at.028 gap, but when switched to pump and meth. I had to gap it to .020. Not sure how much different between E85 and methanol is.

I have the arc-2 handy for my next setup, just in case
 
It makes sense to me. I mean are cars are getting old, the electrical components are 20+ years old. Its a real testament to Mitsubishi heavy industries. They really do make some quality parts. Now that I have the ignition I can open the gap back up, didnt even think of that. My cars revs to 8500 without a stumble.....I cant see myself running without one now. For me it wasnt just boost pressure. For me it is more rpm related, my engine will rev to 7k at 35psi ...its not until im over 7300 when a sense a stumble. I think my location should be perfect, away from heat and vibration as i have the bolts installed on rubber insulators.We will see.
 
I am currently on c16......no methanol. I dont think any beginner should be tuning a high hp pump/meth setup. Asking for trouble if you ask me. I got ahead of myself with my first motor. I was running insane timing and boost on the stock motor. Thankfully I just lost a headgasket. On my current setup im running a 2g timing table with a peak of 14 degrees of timing. The motor feels like it wants more timing but im trying to stay safe.
 
iridiums gapped to .018". This is on e85 fuel.

What Donnie said. I was having problems until I swapped to Iridiums, also gapped down to .018. BR8EIX plugs to be specific. This was on E85 @30+psi using a COP only. I was an avid user of standard NGK copper cores up until that point (thanks @gofer).

I recently installed an ARC-2 CDI box and have to echo what the others have already said. The car pulls noticeably harder and cleaner, especially toward redline. My idle has also significantly improved. My plugs are still gapped down to .018, so the next step for me will be opening up that gap and seeing the outcome.

Regarding longevity of the ARC-2 box, I know a few people that have had some issues. I'm definitely hoping not to experience any of my own. That being said, I have already had some issues not with the CDI box itself, but the tach adapter. I ordered a new plug and play 2g install kit from ExtremePSI. I installed the ARC-2 with the kit, and couldn't get the tach to read correctly.

I sent the tach adapter to Dynatek who tested it, and said it was good. After some back and forth with tech support, they finally sent me another new adapter. I installed the new adapter they sent and my tach worked perfectly.

Long story short, their tach adapter was DOA right out of the box...And they couldn't even verify that by whatever procedure they use to test the adapter in their shop. Their tech support guys were pretty helpful, but reluctant to replace my adapter based on their own findings. I made sure to call after I verified the new adapter fixed the issue and let them know that what I was telling them all along turned out to be true, even though their in-shop testing didn't back me up.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 
Last edited:
What is your gap? With new coils and ptu I've never had issues up to 40 psi and 9,000 rpms with iridiums gapped to .018". This is on e85 fuel.
I cant confirm the gap, its over .023 on the ngk7's , ill look into the iridiums for sure. Im sure the hesitation could of been tuned out as im a noob tuner. It was def a night in day difference over 7k though.....love this this little box
 
I converted one to plug and play for my '90 on my living room floor and a schematic I wrote up and viola, it worked first time flawless. 40lbs on E85. I like the multistrike feature. Its 2 step is easier on the turbo too, or doesn't seem as violent.
 
My stock coils took me to 32psi and I started having misfires around 5K rpm where my torque peaks.
I ordered ARC-2 box and have just installed it. NO CHANGE. Car is even worse under high boost.
Swapped another set of coils and another set of stock wires, same thing.
Do you have any suggestions, guys?
Fuel is E100. I guess it is very hard to ignite that "vodka" :D above 30psi.
 
My stock coils took me to 32psi and I started having misfires around 5K rpm where my torque peaks.
I ordered ARC-2 box and have just installed it. NO CHANGE. Car is even worse under high boost.
Swapped another set of coils and another set of stock wires, same thing.
Do you have any suggestions, guys?
Fuel is E100. I guess it is very hard to ignite that "vodka" :D above 30psi.
Sounds to me like this may be tune related. Have you tried leaning out the afr? I'm on e85 38 psi and was having trouble before installing the ignition. Without the box I was having misfire isssues at peak torque on high boost.
 
My tune is perfect 11.8-12.0 AFR. I have tried NGK bpr7's and bpr8's gapped to .18
Again, never had issues on gasoline, but E100 is pure ethanol, no gasoline at all in it, which makes it much harder to ignite.
But I was expecting the ARC-2 to help with that.
 
Ditch the "P" type plugs. I had issues with blowout on my setup with e85 and got some br7es gapped to. 022 and made a world of a difference.

Some of the high horsepower guys like Donnie and gstwithpsi have mentioned they've had great success with br8eix.
 
Ditch the "P" type plugs. I had issues with blowout on my setup with e85 and got some br7es gapped to. 022 and made a world of a difference.

Some of the high horsepower guys like Donnie and gstwithpsi have mentioned they've had great success with br8eix.
Thanks. That would be the next thing to try.
What is your opinion on the plug wires? Both sets I have are old, I was thinking they can be a weak link.
 
I have had issues from heat baking plug wires that were only 6 months old. Mine were arcing to the underside of my hood. I recently heat wrapped everything and temps are so much better and a new set of wires are cheap so I have a new NGK set coming as we speak. The last time I had issues I accidentally found out by leaving a shop rag on the wires and the sputter went away.
 
What Donnie said. I was having problems until I swapped to Iridiums, also gapped down to .018. BR8EIX plugs to be specific. This was on E85 @30+psi using a COP only. I was an avid user of standard NGK copper cores up until that point (thanks @gofer).

I recently installed an ARC-2 CDI box and have to echo what the others have already said. The car pulls noticeably harder and cleaner, especially toward redline. My idle has also significantly improved. My plugs are still gapped down to .018, so the next step for me will be opening up that gap and seeing the outcome.

Regarding longevity of the ARC-2 box, I know a few people that have had some issues. I'm definitely hoping not to experience any of my own. That being said, I have already had some issues not with the CDI box itself, but the tach adapter. I ordered a new plug and play 2g install kit from ExtremePSI. I installed the ARC-2 with the kit, and couldn't get the tach to read correctly.

I sent the tach adapter to Dynatek who tested it, and said it was good. After some back and forth with tech support, they finally sent me another new adapter. I installed the new adapter they sent and my tach worked perfectly.

Long story short, their tach adapter was DOA right out of the box...And they couldn't even verify that by whatever procedure they use to test the adapter in their shop. Their tech support guys were pretty helpful, but reluctant to replace my adapter based on their own findings. I made sure to call after I verified the new adapter fixed the issue and let them know that what I was telling them all along turned out to be true, even though their in-shop testing didn't back me up.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
I have a little update, I sent out the tach box as it went bad. They tested it and sent it back as "ok" , this happened to you too didnt it? I had already purchased another one which fixed the issue. Seems to me like they are aware of an issue but are too cheap to send me another box.
 
Yes, they sent me a new one after I spoke with their tech department a few times. It took some convincing on my part, and I didn't enjoy the process. I had a local lend me his known good tach adapter to verify the issue, which I told them on the phone. They still didn't seem convinced.

You should call them back and reference my RA number (RA-47662). Ask to speak to Larry Nelson. He's the tech I called and spoke to after the issue was resolved. I explicitly called them just to tell them their "test" procedures are obviously not detecting bad tach adapters, and that in the future they should be aware of that when dealing with customers having the same problem. Apparently, the message wasn't received, or at least not widely disseminated.

Please post back with the outcome. I'm legitimately curious as to why this is still an issue.
 
@amsrn13

Did you contact Dynatek and relay the information I gave you above? Was this resolved, and if so what was the outcome?
 
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Innovation Products Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications MyMitsubishiStore.com RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Vendor Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top