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1g Auto Slingshot Build

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First time I've bothered doing this. But the block and head have been decked so many times it can't hurt. Really a pain. Not matching the cam card so waiting for GSC engineers to call me in the am.
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You and me both!

So I have tried this every which way I can and it's just not matching the cam card at all. It opens close to the card, within one degree of where it should but closes like 12 degrees to soon . I have checked it from every angle I can and it's always the same. The exhaust side is about 4 degrees in one direction on both readings so I could swing the gears and fix it . But the intake side I can't . So my choice now is to send them back to GSC to have them checked. In the meantime I have some GSC s2's here I can run try to degree. So that's the next step.
 
Finally figured out the cam degreeing after talking to GSC. Wasn't just a simple adjustment but ended up not needing very much luckily. Ended up doing the centerline method and just matched the cam card centerline vs doing it the opening and closing since we couldn't get that to match. I'll work on it in my spare time in between cars and try to get it together asap.

On a side note. Tx2k17 just wrapped up. Got to meet Jeff Bush and check out his car! Crazy and awesome! Also saw the first gtr pass into the 6's! Amazing weekend of racing . Got me all amped to get this thing going again!
 
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Getting there. Engine install went really well for once. Did it by myself so I expected a crappy time. With the solid mounts front and rear it usually makes for a bad time but it fell into place like it wanted to be back in the car. Gotta hook the rest up and wire it up. Should be running next week.
 
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Engine is in and running ! So far so good. 1.7 miles in which breaks the last engines record of 1.2miles before self destruct .
Set the dyno date for April 10. Going to fab a race exhaust out of the hood in the meantime and drive it around to put some miles on it.
 
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you drop the engine and trans in all at once from the top?
Yes, I have the engine leveler attatchment for the hoist so it made it easier. Also took the drivers mount off and once all the other 3 had the bolts in but loose, was able to align the last mount pretty easily.
 
Looks great. I wish my engine bay was that clean. I need to find the motivation to clean up the wiring and relocate the fusebox on my car...
I'll tell you, the easiest way to get the fuse box out of the picture is just unbolt it, drop it inside the passenger frame down low. There is a few places to mount it. And the best part is all you have to extend is the headlights ! Really easy and makes it look 100x better
 
I'll tell you, the easiest way to get the fuse box out of the picture is just unbolt it, drop it inside the passenger frame down low. There is a few places to mount it. And the best part is all you have to extend is the headlights ! Really easy and makes it look 100x better
That is how I had mine for a few. I hated where the loom came in behind the driver headlight. I hacked the harness above the driver tire and marked every connection. I then removed all the connectors I didn't need from the harness on the fuse block side, and pulled the other side through the fender and firewall to the floor of the driver seat. Then I soldered the wires that are left over from the previously removed fuse block harness and the harness I pulled to the floor . So now the only small harness that I ran in to the engine bay was through a different location and consisted of the headligts, and alternator wires. (I kept the PS and Oil dummy switches but don't make a difference nor needed really)


With all that said and done I'm hoping to achieve the look you definitely accomplished!!!!
 
Yeah sure makes it a lot cleaner !
28 miles and still no issues. Changed the oil today. Also ordered the stainless pipe needed to fab a race exhaust out of the hood.Dyno day set for April 10 so I've gotta get cracking on that.
 
I read through this thread and think the build is pretty awesome. I wanted to comment to everyone that I am the guy who makes the water pump pulley (discussed on page 7). It looks like people are having good luck with it. If anyone wants one, shoot me a PM and I can make some more.
 
I read through this thread and think the build is pretty awesome. I wanted to comment to everyone that I am the guy who makes the water pump pulley (discussed on page 7). It looks like people are having good luck with it. If anyone wants one, shoot me a PM and I can make some more.
Hey Erik what was the advantage of the pulley?
 
Vegas Smith,
The pulley was designed to allow more room for the alternator relocation kits that are available. In some cases the alternator pulley is waaay to close or even interferes with the frame rail on dsm's with alternators relocated to the back of the block. To allow for more room, I designed and had a pulley machined that allows the use of the inner crank pulley "ribs" as opposed to the outer ribs that the water pump pulley normally rides on. The pulley is then "offset" towards the engine. It was originally intended for a 2g without power steering. I think that if you want to still have power steering you would need to run the power steering belt on the outer ribs of the crank pulley, and space the pump away from the block to align it properly.

In some cases I think that as the engine revs and moves around, the alternator pulley can interfere with the frame rail and toss the belt. Using this pulley, the alternator is far away from the frame rail and helps keep the belt on.
 
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