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2G Dies when even the slightest gas is given

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Inkdlyfe

Inkdlyfe

Proven Member
438
7
Feb 23, 2016
Summer feild, Florida
So went out to start my car this morning an noticed it died when given gas even the slightest gas is given it dies but fires right back up I know it's not my fuel cuz my fpr reads 50 psi of fuel right at start up.... What could cause this ?? And yes there is gas in the car about 4 or 5 gallons
 
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The first thing that came to mind is the IAC. I have had a couple of different cars, react in the same way and both times, the Idle Air Control valve was the source of my problem. I am guessing that you have no "service" lights staying on past start up, or else you probably would have mentioned that in your post.
 
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yeah, minea currently doing this right now and its bevause i unplugged my iac due to an extremely high idle because its faulty. runs fine now, only problem is it dies right as you hit the gas if i dont let it qarm up a few minutes. what you might do is
try to clean it, this usually helps the most.
if you need help with the location im sure u can find that on here somewhere, as im not sure what model or engine you have.but someone must have asked on here LOL
 
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It does seem to be getting too much air should I just Take it off and clean it or a new one may be needed ?

DixieLee69 said:
The first thing that came to mind is the IAC. I have had a couple of different cars, react in the same way and both times, the Idle Air Control valve was the source of my problem. I am guessing that you have no "service" lights staying on past start up, or else you probably would have mentioned that in your post.
Click to expand...
 
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I have the tps under warranty so that's not a big deal if anything I just gotta buy the iac but I herd if people deleting that any ways how is that possible
 
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iac delete wouldnt due much other than cause you to run rich, which will bog your idle down and possibly cause cylinder wash. what you migh try is what ive done for the time being, is on a totally stone cold engine take your iac out, plug it into the connector, and turn your key on to verify that the iac actually moves out dont start the engine though. if it does move out, disconnect it in the out position, push it in by force maybe an eight an inch, and then put it back it, DO NOT CONNECT IT. now start the car and verify the idle is in an acceptable range. your essentially just deleted the iac, without actually deleting it. on the 2g, or atleast my 2g RS, this does not trigger a check engine light due to the connetor being plugged in, and the only side effect i see is some cold start issues. check your plugs and see if they are black, if they are your running to rich. replace those, do a fuel pressure test on the rail to make sure your getting the right psi up there. an injector clean might be a good idea as well. the only other thing in my scope of knowledge would be check the MAP sensor. passenger side on the intake, its got purple insulation i believe. really hope you get this fixed man.
 
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Might be a dumb question but are you getting a CEL? ROFL My IAC is acting up according to the ECU but the car runs and drives perfectly. No clue what to make of it ...

But getting a code read on your car is free if you go to Advance Auto Parts :D I've even heard some DSMers say something about the IAC solder blowing-out or burning-out on the ECU circuit board ... :idontknow: no clue if there's any truth to that or not
 
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I would assume the people who are suggesting you delete it are thinking you can just run out and buy ECMLink for your car and run emulation in place for the sensor. This would be a possible workaround if your car was a 4g63 motor instead of the 420a as ECMLink does not support the 420a.

This can be caused by a lot of different things.
Vacuum leaks
Dirty or faulty IAC
Clogged fuel filter
Faulty fuel pump
Bad ignition system.
A bad ground

I would start with the fuel and ignition system. I would start by checking your spark, then move to cleaning the IAC. If that does not work check the fuel system and then move onto checking grounds. Although it would likely be obvious to you, a REALLY low battery with a failing alternator could also cause this. But you'd likely be needing to jump start or push start your car.

Let us know what you are having problems with specifically and try to document as much as possible.
 
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You have very very good input for sure I'm going to try what you said and see where that leads my fuel rail has a fpr on it and reads about 50 psi at start up. Havnt checked the spark at all yet but I have noticed that I'm arking a spark through a spark plug wire tho....I do have a call but idk for just yet... The car idle perfect no problem off and on each time but I do have a battery light on not sure what the battery after being started can be removed I noticed that so my alt is deff good..... But if I toy with it a little it will rev up but then act up again .....


420NottheEngine said:
iac delete wouldnt due much other than cause you to run rich, which will bog your idle down and possibly cause cylinder wash. what you migh try is what ive done for the time being, is on a totally stone cold engine take your iac out, plug it into the connector, and turn your key on to verify that the iac actually moves out dont start the engine though. if it does move out, disconnect it in the out position, push it in by force maybe an eight an inch, and then put it back it, DO NOT CONNECT IT. now start the car and verify the idle is in an acceptable range. your essentially just deleted the iac, without actually deleting it. on the 2g, or atleast my 2g RS, this does not trigger a check engine light due to the connetor being plugged in, and the only side effect i see is some cold start issues. check your plugs and see if they are black, if they are your running to rich. replace those, do a fuel pressure test on the rail to make sure your getting the right psi up there. an injector clean might be a good idea as well. the only other thing in my scope of knowledge would be check the MAP sensor. passenger side on the intake, its got purple insulation i believe. really hope you get this fixed man.
Click to expand...
 
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Alright so just changed the tps and still acting up... I got a iac but deff gave me the wrong one so Imma have to go back and check that one out and see about that one anything else I should check ? I just pulled each plug and I'm getting spark for sure And getting 50 psi of fuel and starts back up my batter light is still on.... Could a bad battery cause this ? Starts up every time with no studder with ease I'm going to try and check the cell next I have a cell on but it should only be for the egr delete but may be more now...
 
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It's non turbo right now it will be redone here soon I need new injectors
 
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It might be your alternator (voltage regulator) about to go bad. Mine has been acting weird for a week before it almost gave up on me on the road. On the last day, the battery warning light and CEL came on if I gave a little gas. Sometimes if I gave a little gas it would stall and die, and other times the car would slowly creep up to 20-30 mph, but it stutter while the speedometer increases. Do an alternator check to see if it's bad because it's simple and easy just by removing the negative cable while the motor is running.
 
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So I swapped the main computer out and bam no check engine light no battery light and runs amazing
 
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