Hello all! Havent had much time to mess with ecmlink since the car has been down for quite some time. Finally got her up and running and did a BLT prior to tuning with ecmlink v3. I followed the training videos and i believe I got my idle nailed. The following is what i am working with:

Stock 7 bolt longblock just rebuilt a year ago
evo 316g set at 10psi for tuning
FMIC
2g stock MAF
injen CAI
walbro 190 on stock FPR
RC 750 injectors
ecmlink v3, LC2WB installed in place of downstream O2 sensor, no cats, narrow band in stock location upstream
1g BOV
Greddy exhaust


*BLT done, found a couple of leaks and corrected

If I understand this correctly, I am trying to get AFRratioest to line up with my LC1WB using WBfactor, in turn that will get my target AFR nailed down. Once that is done, I can start adjusting timing, target AFR via the maxocttable, and turn up the boost. Am I on the right track?

I have attached all my pulls in order, could someone steer me in the right direction. Of course, 1st 3rd gear pull is my baseline with no WOT tuning. I am on MAF setup and trying to get this setup dialed in prior to switching to SD. Thank you for ya'll time

any help?

If you want good tuning advice, you need to fill out the template below. We use the information in the template to help evaluate your tune. This format allows those willing to help you to easily verify your car is in good working order before time and effort is invested assisting you with tuning advice. You can't tune a car that's not mechanically sound.

Here's the format ---> http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/wa...r-receive-no-replies-from-the-wisemen.443297/

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Next, make sure you're capturing the correct values for the type of feedback you are seeking. See here for what values to capture ---> http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/list-of-values-to-log.444831/

Lastly, update mod list for your car. For example, it still says you're on an SAFC. The more details you provide, the more it helps others help you without having to ask a bunch of redundant questions about what's done to your car.

Thanks for the reply. WILCO

1). Any boost, vac, or exhaust leaks?
holds 13-15 PSI

2). Verified mechanical timing?
yes
3). Verified base timing?
Yes
4). Ignition system
Stock Coil:
Wire brand and Age: regular autozone wires, changed a month ago
Spark Plug brand, type and Gap:
bpr7es, 28

5). Motor health (Compression Test) Fresh build
Cylinder 1:155
Cylinder 2:160
Cylinder 3:160
Cylinder 4:155

6). Performed basic throttle body adjustments?
Idle Switch: using 2g TB, simulate switch in ecmlink
Throttle Cable: TPS adjusted via ecmlink, throttle cable has no binding
TPS: new TPS, adjusted via ecmlink
BISS: ISC reads 27 fully warmed on ecmlink, rebuilt TB, new ISC, BISS screwed all the way in to get close to 30...weird

7). Compression ratio
8.5:1

8). Any known bad sensors or brittle wiring?
none, removed MDP sensor in place of 4 BAR sensor, locked values via ECMLINK

9). Any DTC/CEL codes?
rear o2, FPS solenoid due to vacuum delete and EGR delete. All compensated via ecmlink

10). Electrical system
Car off (not running): 13+/-
Car running:13+/-

11). Base fuel pressure and injector values
Base Fuel Pressure: 43.5
Injector Size (cc/min):RC 750cc

12). Properly calibrated and configured wideband sensor
Sensor Brand: innovate LC2
Calibration Date: 2 months ago

13). Type of fuel
Type:93
Percent of Ethanol:10

14). Watched ECMlink how-to videos?
yes

I only looked at the 3rd gear pull log (3rd pull 3rd gear.elg)

For starters, adjust your TPS:

GST with PSI said:

The ECMLink TPS adjustment feature has become a pet peeve of mine. Nearly every log I look at, somebody is using it incorrectly. I strongly believe if you need to adjust the TPS offset or TPS scale more than a value of 2 on either scale, you need to go back and make a manual adjustment to your TPS. You are at a -8 offset, on a 107% scale. That tells me the natural sweep of your TPS sensor is out of wack, and you need to go manually adjust it. On my personal cars, I'm happy when this feature is either disabled, or I'm at 0 and 100%...But that's just me.

Click to expand...

After your TPS is sorted, you should enable idle switch operation. The switch itself seems to be working decent according to your log, so you can enable the stock switch by simply checking the box, or choose to simulate the idle switch via the TPS if you prefer (I typically always do this). Without the idle switch being enabled, the ECU doesn't know when it's supposed to be idling.

Your global fuel is set quite a bit richer than the calculator suggests for your base fuel pressure and injector size. You're at -27.3, and the calc says you should be around -40.6. This is also reflected in your MAF comp table, as you're pulling fuel across the board. To correct this, adjust your global fuel leaner, and bump your entire MAF Comp curve richer. You can use the global scalar feature to do this. Once this is done, your global fuel value should be closer to what the calculator is suggesting, and your MAF comp adjustment curve will be closer to the zero axis on the table.

Now, your wideband damn near tracks your target AFR perfectly (good job there), so make sure you don't change the curve itself. Your adjustments are good, they just need to ALL move richer evenly across the board after you've leaned the mix via global fuel. I hope that makes sense.

Your fuel table is far too rich. I shoot for 11.0:1 on pump gas tunes. You are at 9.5-9.6, which is way too rich. You can grab the fuel table from here if you'd like: http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/98...annot-boost-past-20psi.503630/#post-153591818

Your timing table looks fine for now. You may want to add some timing at spool up after you get things dialed in, as it's super conservative in your current table.

Overall, you've knocked out the hard part and have your actual AFRs tracking target, which is typically half the battle. A few small changes, and you'll be on track. Make the necessary adjustments I've recommended above, then go do another 3rd gear pull. Post that up and I can provide more feedback if needed. Good job.

Thank you for your reply and input. I did kind of wondered why my mafcomp are negative values, I was watching this video and adjusting the LTFT LO had me adjusting the global from -40 to -27.3 to keep the values +/- 2%, am I adjusting this wrong? Maybe I misunderstood the video but one thing I got right was the AFR targets. I will mechanically adjust the TPS tomorrow and I have enabled the idle switch box in ecmlink. I have not touched timing (Stock 2g maps) yet as I wanted to get the AFRs and everything else on target first, hence this post.

This will be a lengthy explanation, but one worth understanding, so bear with me here.

What you did to dial in your airflow to match fuel is absolutely right. However, what you've done here perfectly exhibits what happens when what I call the "fuel baseline" is off.

For me, the fuel baseline is global fuel. Now, I use global fuel as a baseline because it's one of the few things on the car and in the tune that are fairly constant. By knowing constant values, it takes much of the guess work out of tuning. Typically, all tuning consists of is a series of educated guesses based on feedback seen from the ECU. However, I've also seen tuning take the form of a series of uneducated guesses based on nothing...But that's a topic for another time.

Now, the constants for global fuel are as follows:
-Injector make
-Injector size
-Base fuel pressure
-Stoichiometric ratio (this will depend on the fuel type being run. If you're on E85 for example, this is 9.8:1 rather than 14.7:1)

You may notice, these are the same values the ECMlink global fuel adjustment calculator uses to calculate global fuel. Given these values, the ECMlink calculator can generate a fairly close estimate for your global fuel value. This is key, because nearly everything else in the tune will revolve around this being accurate.

The global fuel calculator is just an estimator that uses the constant values above to approximate global fuel. There will obviously be variations, but getting too far from the suggested value typically suggests there's something awry.




Let's use your tune for a test case:

You're global fuel is set too rich. So, in order to get your actual AFR to match your target AFR, you have to pull fuel by using the MAF Comp table and adjust the mixture lean. This is why all of your MAF Comp values are negative. At WOT, there's technically nothing wrong with this, since your tune is basically where you want it to be. However, at idle and cruise, you could have a harder time tuning the car since the global fuel values are much richer than they should be. Also, when you switch to SD, you'll find your VE table will be way out of scale. Rather than be close to 100% at max VE, your table will likely be super lean across the board, just like your MAF Comp table currently is.

TLDR:
Accurate global fuel is one of the cornerstones of a good tune. Dial in global, then make airflow adjustments.

ok great thanks for the help. I went ahead and adjusted the maf comp table to same values but positive, adjusted the global fuel and ended up at -39.1 instead of 40.6 with a 315 dead time which yielded a +/- 2 on STFT and LTFT. airflowperrev is around 0.28-0.29. Also flashed the evo8 base maps, will try to grab a 3rd gear pull here tonight if not, tomorrow and post it here so we can critique the changes. Thanks again for the help

Did a mafcompadjust for cruise and had maybe 2 point that needed about a percent or so adjustment (Thats good I guess) then followed by 3 WOT runs. Attached is the 3rd pull on 3rd gear after some cleaning up. Could not figure out how to get MAP sensor and Boostest to line up around 5000 to 5500. I read somewhere that they are suppose to line up at that RPM range...maybe I read wrong?

Your log looks great. AFRs are perfect.

Your TPS still needs to be adjusted. During your pull, it doesn't even stay 100% WOT.

At this point you should turn up the boost and add some peak timing in.

Alright, the replacement AFPR seemed to solve the lean problem on the upper rpm band of my WOT pull. I got everything lined up on the AFRest and WB, boostest and MAP still spread out from 5k onward. I am running 44psi on the AFPR instead of 43.5, even tried 45psi and all it did was richen the STFT and LTFT lo causing me to mess with global to put it back in check. Any thoughts? I tried messing with mafcomp to get boostest lined up from 5k but it just messes up the WB and AFRest. Attached are 3 pulls i made, 1st one is right after the AFPR replacement with no adjustment and the 2nd one with some mafcomp tweaking, 3rd one is with timing tweak. I know the maxoctane is a bit rich so i have made adjustments to shoot for 11:1 AFR from full boost onward but sadly i dont have a pull file on that one. My coolant temp is still a tad on the high side (will add ducting soon). I tuned for 16-17psi on an evo3b16g. Lets get some advice and opinions! Thanks in advance

adrian2627 said:

Alright, the replacement AFPR seemed to solve the lean problem on the upper rpm band of my WOT pull. I got everything lined up on the AFRest and WB, boostest and MAP still spread out from 5k onward. I am running 44psi on the AFPR instead of 43.5, even tried 45psi and all it did was richen the STFT and LTFT lo causing me to mess with global to put it back in check. Any thoughts? I tried messing with mafcomp to get boostest lined up from 5k but it just messes up the WB and AFRest. Attached are 3 pulls i made, 1st one is right after the AFPR replacement with no adjustment and the 2nd one with some mafcomp tweaking, 3rd one is with timing tweak. I know the maxoctane is a bit rich so i have made adjustments to shoot for 11:1 AFR from full boost onward but sadly i dont have a pull file on that one. My coolant temp is still a tad on the high side (will add ducting soon). I tuned for 16-17psi on an evo3b16g. Lets get some advice and opinions! Thanks in advance

Click to expand...

I had a boost leak on the adjustment screw on my AFPR one time which made my fuel trims weird. Had to put like 10-15 wraps of teflon tape on it to get it to seal. After that all good. Just a thought.

Before I get into analyzing your log, I just wanted to say you have done some really good work so far. AFREst and WB are very very close. Your Boostest vs Boost is off b/c you have a setting that is off and that skewed everything a bit. I had the exact same issue as you and it took me a long ass time to get all 4 variables lined up perfectly.

Before you do any of this save a full backup of the DA and the Config settings for peace of mind. I have full confidence that this will fix your issue but its just good practice to backup.

Looked at pull 2:
Looking at IDLE only
- Your Omni 4 Bar looks solid as -19 to -20 vac is a healthy idle vaccum. Seems that your system is well sealed after the throttle body to head which is good.
- Your BoostEst at idle is off however....its at -22 and your air flow per rev seems a tad high. Your O2 is not switching at 14.7 (its at ~15.4) and your fuel trims are pulling a lot of fuel (-9% ish). Looking at your MAFComp you are adding a ton of air. This makes me think you have the injector deadtimes/global is off. You have RC750 high Z injectors right? From a table on dwell times (http://www.turbochargerkits.com.au/efi-tech/fuel-injector-dwell-times/) those injectors should be:

8v 10v 11v 12v 13v 14v 15v
2.18 1.36 1.12 0.92 0.76 0.63 0.50

Looking at your deadtimes in the DA tables from your log I think they should be (I did some extrapoaltoin on Excel to get the "missing" numbers):
7v: 2800
9v: 1600
12v: 920
14v: 630
16v: 400
19v: 300

You didn't log battery volts so I don't know what your ECU is using for deadtimes at idle. However the suggested vs old deadtime tables are pretty close at 12-14v BUT you are adding 315us in the Fuel tab. At idle/crusing the deadtime is HUGELY important so adding 315 is skewing things a lot.

Ideally you should use the DA table and NOT the global fuel deadtime table. Use the following values and set your global fuel deadtime to zero.




Now since you are running 750cc and 44 psi you are going to have to set your global fuel and deadtimes too:



Once that is done reset your fuel trims (in the "ECU" toolbar at the very top) reset your MAF comp to zero and fire up your car while doing a log. IF you have issues getting it started drop your global fuel from -41.0 to -40.5 and try again. Keep dropping it until it starts. Once started let it warm up to temp.

Once its warmed up look at your AFREst and WB and move your MAFComp sliders 0 hz & 50 hz until your AFRest matches WB AND both are at 14.7 and your LTFTLo and STFT is near zero. Once that is done look at your BoostEst vs Boost and if they match your done the idle tune....if not then drop/add more fuel and start sliding your MAFComp sliders around again. Once You get BoostEst=Boost, AFREst=WB=14.7, STFT and LTFT = 0 your done your idle tune.

The thing that is messing up your tune is that the deadtime can be off and you can use the global fuel to account for the deadtime at idle but when you get into WOT tuning you have to use MAFComp to account for the global being off (which was to account for deadtime). Your My point is deadtime must be very very close in order to dial in the global fuel properly.

Now that idle tune is done and global fuel and deadtimes are very very close you can do WOT tuning. Post a log once you get idle tune dialed in so we can make sure your on the right track.

Your WOT does look good and your AFR's do match, however b/c your computer thinks your BoostEst is higher than it actually is it is inflating your LoadFactor which in turn is using a higher load cell in your AFR table and your timing tables. This is robbing you of torque and HP. You can run it as is, but i personally do not like to leave torque on the table if possible.

Thank you for the advice. I will make the adjustments and will post another log. I thought something looked funny when I made some adjustments on the DA tables and they looked weird.

ok, so I did tried the changes as outlined and ive ran into a couple of problems. First, I changed the dwell times in the DA menu as written. Then I reset the fuel table and mafcomp to stock, I then started at -41.0 for my global fuel, and 0 for deadtime. Started the car and it was way lean. Tried to compensate with global fuel but it puts me way out of adjustment (something like -twenty something). I then tried with mafcomp and it puts my adjustments waaaayyyyy off. Maybe im not understanding the methodology here, can you elaborate again? sorry for being a pain im just getting frustrated.

adrian2627 said:

ok, so I did tried the changes as outlined and ive ran into a couple of problems. First, I changed the dwell times in the DA menu as written. Then I reset the fuel table and mafcomp to stock, I then started at -41.0 for my global fuel, and 0 for deadtime. Started the car and it was way lean. Tried to compensate with global fuel but it puts me way out of adjustment (something like -twenty something). I then tried with mafcomp and it puts my adjustments waaaayyyyy off. Maybe im not understanding the methodology here, can you elaborate again? sorry for being a pain im just getting frustrated.

Click to expand...

Not a pain so no worries, it will take a bit to get it dialled in.

@AdrianDSM Do you have a log to look at? Much easier to see whats going on.

What do you mean way out of adjustment? Like you can't move the global fuel anymore?

If you are way lean then you need to add air in your Mafcomp table in the 0 to 100 hz sliders. That will tell the ECU that there is more air than the MAF is reading at that HZ so then the ECU will inject more fuel to richen it up to 14.7.

Without seeing your log its hard to know what is going on so far.

I see you calibrated your WB 2 months ago, but have you had the actual sensor disconected from the box thingy and then turned the power on in the car to check somehting electrical? If you do it that power bump without the sensor hooked up messes up the heater calibration and can give you weird reading also. I have done that many many times and always forget about the heater calibration.

Thank you for your replies. I will attach a log once I get a chance. I have calibrated the WB again about 3 weeks ago by following the instructions. I believe I have an exhaust leak before the WB thats why its reading a tad lean. I will be relocating that to the downpipe right after the turbo for a better reading. with the global fuel at -41.0 and dead time at 0.0, the LTFT and STFT are maxed out adding fuel, car barely runs, and WB is at max lean (24AFR i think). I can compensate with adding MAFCOMP but that puts me adding +40 to the mafcomp which is abnormal. I can add fuel by the slider but it also looks abnormal at -19 instead of -41.

idle log attached

Looking better. It looks like about what I have with my setup numbers wise and i have a very similar build. You will want to wait till the car gets above 190 degrees to really dial it in. You also can probably do better on fuel trims, but your are close enough.

You should uncheck the "enable air flow smoothing with SD" since you aren't running speed density.

You will want to keep an eye on our WBfactor when you start doing pulls as your afrestimate may vary from what you are reading. Dialing that in isn't too bad.

I noticed with my LC2 that i had an offset between what the car was doing and what the gauge was reading. Might want to make sure it is reading correctly at the low and high end.

WB factor stuff can be found on ecmlink website here.

I can't remember whether it was on ECMtuning or DSM tuners, but there was a guide on how to set you afr to a value then measure the voltage of the sensor and scale it accordingly.

Lastly, where are you that your intake temps are 113 deg with your collant only around 130?

Switched to SD to simplify piping and to get rid of the maf. Attached is my WOT pull. Still can't seem to get Boostest and MAP sensor to line up 5 to 6k but AFR and LC1 are within splitting hairs of each other. Any thoughts? There are always improvements

You are doing some really weird and unnecessary things in the Direct Access.

Why are you adding more fuel in these tables at all?

They should be left totally stock until you have the basics dialled in.











I can tell from your VE table that something is still not right. There is no way at all (like from a physics point of view) you can be over 100% VE that far (or at all some might argue). If you are adding in that much air it means your global fuel % is not correct.

I followed the "how to tune SD in a 1g/2g" guide, watched the ecmlink videos, and asked numerous people here and on ecmlink. Based on the injector data page, my RC 750cc injectors are suppose to be -41%, 330 dead time at 42.6psi FP. I tuned my idle and cruise according to the guides and proceeded to tune WOT once I got those two dialed in. Once WOT, the VE above 4k slowly ended up in the red area and maxed out the settings at 127. Scott Laird on youtube recommends richening the global fuel to compensate the table and get the AFRratio and WB to get close then tune the SD from there. That is what I am doing. Which leads me to believe that maybe:

1. Injectors dirty/mislabeled/just plain suck
2. I am still screwed up

I modified the coolanttempadjust and crankingfuel to help with starting (now thinking my injectors are causing the start/idle prob). I modified the Tipin after logging TPSdelta and found some lean spikes when sudden throttle WOT.

I just can't for sure narrow it to the injectors yet. I've followed the tuning guides and I think I am doing it right. Any other recommendations? I am getting frustrated but patient

Does you have any kind of Fuel Pressure Gauge or Sensor? I've had a problem like yours. After days struggling, I found out that was a clogged fuel filter.
My pressure was dropping when I reached full boost, making my SD Table weird to compensate.
Take a look at the fuel filter and lines, maybe is a phisycal, not a tunning problem.
Regards!

adrian2627 said:

Based on the injector data page, my RC 750cc injectors are suppose to be -41%, 330 dead time at 42.6psi FP. I tuned my idle and cruise according to the guides and proceeded to tune WOT once I got those two dialed in. Once WOT, the VE above 4k slowly ended up in the red area and maxed out the settings at 127.

Click to expand...

This is exactly why the first part of the tune I dial in is WOT. Any work you do on the idle or cruise tune is ultimately affected by global fuel, which will certainly get tweaked at WOT.

Get your base settings down at idle and cruise, and go straight to WOT. You know your global fuel is correct when you can hit 100% VE in the appropriate cells at WOT and your target/actual AFRs match up. From there on out, you know your SD table is properly scaled at max VE, and you know you shouldn't have to make any major changes to global fuel.

At that point, you should not have to touch the max VE cells, or global fuel. Once those are constants, tweak your spool, cruise, and idle cells to round out the tune. Idle is typically the very last thing I dial in.

ended up upgrading to bigger injectors and re-tune. I saw some parts of the SD table going past 100 and so I scaled the global fuel to richen her up and get the SD to below 100. Tuned WOT from there and much easier IMO. I backtracked to tuning for idle and cruise using inj dead time table x voltage and got my airflowperrev back to 25. I am about 90% with the table just have to perfect the blending.