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1G ECMlink Datalog *noob*

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MikeGrant

Probationary Member
15
1
Dec 27, 2015
Victoria, BC_Canada
Hey guys. I was hoping someone could take a look at my data log from a 3rd gear uphill pull I did. The biggest problem that I am having is horrible lag. I did a boost leak test up too 25psi today and it took over a minute to bleed off. Compression test numbers are 164 143 146 153.

Car info
-93 Eagle Talon TSI AWD manual
-Stock longblock (106k)
-Turbolab td05 bastard 20g.......aftermarket .70ar turbine housing
-PTE 880cc injectors
-ECMlink V3 SD
-FP manifold
-SBR front mount (friggin huge)
 

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1) Go create a DSM profile:

http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/we...o-create-a-dsm-profile.499707/#post-153564173

2) Fill out the template:

Here's the format ---> http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/wa...r-receive-no-replies-from-the-wisemen.443297/

Here's an example of how to fill it out ---> http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/first-time-log-wisemen-just-look-away.495794/#post-153536533

Next, make sure you're capturing the correct values for the type of feedback you are seeking. See here for what values to capture ---> http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/list-of-values-to-log.444831/

Do all of the above and you'll get the help you need.
 
You are not logging WB or your Omni at all.

Can't help until those are logged properly. Fix, and post the new log.

Also you said you're running SD but I don't see the intake air temp sensor setup. Do you have one or did you just not set it up?

You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 
Way better. :)

Looks good. All the data looks there now for sure.

Can you grab another 3rd gear pull and post?
 
Alright sorry for the poor quality on the runs........hard to find a place to do pulls with the traffic and road conditions

1st log is 2nd gear pull with a bit into 3rd on a decent hill
2nd log starts around 38 second mark which is a 3rd gear pull on fairly flat ground

I just shimmed my wastegate so I obviously need to dial my boost back as I am targeting 24-25psi

Appreciate all the help
 

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Just looking at your logs now...whats your base fuel pressure set to with the vacuum line disconnected?

The reason I ask is your AFREst and WB are way off in open loop and your boostEst and Omni are way off at idle.

Usually this means your Global Fuel is off and (likely) your deadtimes are off. Do you have the deadtimes from PTE for your injectors? FIC sends a lil data sheet with the injectors but I've never owned a set of PTE's so I dunno.
 
hjJust looking at your logs now...whats your base fuel pressure set to with the vacuum line disconnected?

The reason I ask is your AFREst and WB are way off in open loop and your boostEst and Omni are way off at idle.

Usually this means your Global Fuel is off and (likely) your deadtimes are off. Do you have the deadtimes from PTE for your injectors? FIC sends a lil data sheet with the injectors but I've never owned a set of PTE's so I dunno.


The fuel pressure was set at 37 psi. I am going double check tomorrow

I purchased the fuel injectors used off this site and I will post a picture with the info I received when I purchased
 

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The fuel pressure was set at 37 psi. I am going double check tomorrow

I purchased the fuel injectors used off this site and I will post a picture with the info I received when I purchased

Double check that fuel pressure (with vac line not connected) just to cross that off. That datasheet is exactly what I was talking about....however I don't see the deadtimes. Is there anything on the back of that sheet?

There is a thread floating around on evoM forum with deadtimes others are using so they may be on there.

Your deadtimes are unchanged in the DA tables so they for sure need to be dialed in still.
 
1). No boost, vac, or exhaust leaks.
-Boost leak tested Jan 24/17...........Held 30psi with no leaks
-No exhaust leaks

2). Verify mechanical timing.
-Timing belt installed at mitsu dealer in late 2015

3). Verify base timing
-As above

4). Ignition system

-Ngk 7's gapped at .28 .........less then a year old

5). Motor health
-162 , 143 , 146 , 153 ...........not completely warmed up

6). Basic throttle body adjustments
-All checked except BISS.....

7). Compression ratio
-Stock

8). Wiring and sensors
-All good

9). No DTC/CEL codes
-None

10). Electrical system
-Good

11). Base fuel pressure and injector values
-Base fuel pressure set at 38 psi with vac disconnected
-PTE 880cc set according to ECMlinks specs

12). Properly calibrated and configured wideband sensor
-New Feb 2017......calibrated in free air

13). Type of fuel
-94 octane..........may start adding 10% e85

14). ECMlink how-to videos
-Yes
 
So after doing a bit of research it looks like I was trying to do thing ass backwards when I started playing with the ECMlink. I have been dialing in my idle and VE tables...... I am going to post my last cruise datalog along with last update on the VE table that I made

I am having a bit of stumble where my AFR go lean as soon as I touch the pedal to take off......any ideas how to fix this and does it look like I am ready to go do some pulls

Thanks for help
 

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Your TPS is completely jacked. Fix it: http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/adjust-your-tps.509898/

I'd bet my ass if you properly adjust the TPS it will fix half of your issues.

Fix the TPS, and then post a new 3rd gear pull. Drop your knock threshold to 3* of knock. If the CEL lights up, abort the pull.
 
Your TPS is completely jacked. Fix it: http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/adjust-your-tps.509898/

I'd bet my ass if you properly adjust the TPS it will fix half of your issues.

Fix the TPS, and then post a new 3rd gear pull. Drop your knock threshold to 3* of knock. If the CEL lights up, abort the pull.

You were 100% correct about tps being out of adjustment. Most of the low end stumble is gone and it drives alot smoother in part throttle application. Here is a 3rd gear pull that had to be aborted due too knock along with an idle log too

Thanks for pointing me in the right direction with the tps
 

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For starters, you have a TPS code. Clear the code, and operate the car. If it comes back, you have a physical problem with the sensor or wiring.

Regarding the TPS log reading, it looks like your TPS is better, but you're still not WOT. At this point, you should be able to use the TPS Adjust feature. With the car off but the ignition on, start a log and push the pedal all the way to the floor, then let off. Pause the log, right click anywhere on the log graph, and select TPS adjust. At that point, ECMlink should populate the TPS Offset and TPS scale boxes with new numbers. Again, if either of these are more than +/- 2, you need to go back and make another manual TPS adjustment. Rinse and repeat until you can either disable the TPS feature, or either scale is 2 or less.

Your DA fuel table is all over the place during the pull (from 12.9:1-10.8:1). You should pick a consistent OL target AFR and stick with it. Here's a generic DA fuel table I've used to get people started on pump gas tunes. I'd recommend downloading it and starting from there: http://www.dsmtuners.com/attachments/stiggity99directaccess-eda.303436/

Your peak timing is weak as f***, and you're still getting tons of knock. You need to lower the boost, and add in some timing if you want to make better power. As you start to venture out of the compressor's efficiency range, that TDO5 20G is going to be pushing some seriously hot air. On straight pump gas, you just aren't going to be able to push to those higher boost levels on the tiny TDO5H turbine without getting some knock. I'd try and drop the boost to around 20 PSI peak, and shoot for 12*-15* of peak timing. I bet you'll find the car feels much quicker and more responsive. If you want to run 27+ pounds of boost, you'll need to consider methanol injection or E85. What's strange is your IATs are pretty much static, even all the way through the pull. I'd verify your IAT is functioning/configured properly. If you have a heat gun, pull the IAT from the IC pipe and make sure it's is actually reading like it should.

Your SD table needs work during spool up.

Lastly, check your battery and charging system. You're dropping to 13.0V by redline. Should be closer to 13.5 or >.

Didn't look at the idle log.
 
For starters, you have a TPS code. Clear the code, and operate the car. If it comes back, you have a physical problem with the sensor or wiring.

Regarding the TPS log reading, it looks like your TPS is better, but you're still not WOT. At this point, you should be able to use the TPS Adjust feature. With the car off but the ignition on, start a log and push the pedal all the way to the floor, then let off. Pause the log, right click anywhere on the log graph, and select TPS adjust. At that point, ECMlink should populate the TPS Offset and TPS scale boxes with new numbers. Again, if either of these are more than +/- 2, you need to go back and make another manual TPS adjustment. Rinse and repeat until you can either disable the TPS feature, or either scale is 2 or less.

Your DA fuel table is all over the place during the pull (from 12.9:1-10.8:1). You should pick a consistent OL target AFR and stick with it. Here's a generic DA fuel table I've used to get people started on pump gas tunes. I'd recommend downloading it and starting from there: http://www.dsmtuners.com/attachments/stiggity99directaccess-eda.303436/

Your peak timing is weak as f***, and you're still getting tons of knock. You need to lower the boost, and add in some timing if you want to make better power. As you start to venture out of the compressor's efficiency range, that TDO5 20G is going to be pushing some seriously hot air. On straight pump gas, you just aren't going to be able to push to those higher boost levels on the tiny TDO5H turbine without getting some knock. I'd try and drop the boost to around 20 PSI peak, and shoot for 12*-15* of peak timing. I bet you'll find the car feels much quicker and more responsive. If you want to run 27+ pounds of boost, you'll need to consider methanol injection or E85. What's strange is your IATs are pretty much static, even all the way through the pull. I'd verify your IAT is functioning/configured properly. If you have a heat gun, pull the IAT from the IC pipe and make sure it's is actually reading like it should.

Your SD table needs work during spool up.

Lastly, check your battery and charging system. You're dropping to 13.0V by redline. Should be closer to 13.5 or >.

Didn't look at the idle log.


Hey I loaded your base settings and it is huge improvement from the seat of the pants ......a lot smoother in off boost performance

I ran the tps tool and I am seeing 0.63v at idle and 5v at full throttle

I ran another 3rd gear pull after adjusting the mbc 1/2 a turn out and and still saw the same 28 psi.......definitely going to get this dialed in properly .....run starts approx 30 seconds in
 

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The log doesn't look too bad.

Your TPS looks good in the log, but the adjust settings are still jacked. You might want to run through the adjustment procedure again.

I tweaked your SD table. Upload this and do another pull.
 

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  • MikeGrantsettings.2017.03.23-01.ecm
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The log doesn't look too bad.

Your TPS looks good in the log, but the adjust settings are still jacked. You might want to run through the adjustment procedure again.

I tweaked your SD table. Upload this and do another pull.

Alright loaded your sd table and adjusted the throttle cable again , I had to drop my global dead time from to 385 to 355 to get my idle fuel trim down. I also think I may need another mbc as this one is inconsistent.

Last thing to note is I was playing around with my timing tables too add a couple degrees and smooth them slightly

Run starts at approx 23 sec
 

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TPS looks good.

Your SD table needs to be tweaked in the spool cells from 2.5k-2.8k range. You're way lean here.

If I were you, I'd lean out my global fuel some, and then rescale the SD table so that you're at 100% VE in the appropriate cells. But, I'm OCD, and like my table to be spot on. Aside from the scaling being slightly off (you're at 97%), the SD table is good to go.

At this point, the tune is pretty solid overall. Add timing and boost for more power. Keep an eye on your AFRs, and make sure you're not getting any knock. Your small tuning window on pump gas will show it's ugly face if you start getting too aggressive.
 
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