I looked at your mods and I think you had better dedicate more than one day. You could probably get the idle tune and load a stock 2g timing and fuel map, but you will need to cruise around to dial in that part and WOT will come last usually, working up to different RPM's as you go. There are a few members on here that are willing to help out and I am sure they will look at this post and chime in for more info for you. You will like Link, it is a very useful tool! I tune my own, but it has taken quite a while to get it ironed out and I am still working on one small area that gives me a fit. @GST with PSI is very very helpful on this stuff.

1990TSIAWDTALON said:

I looked at your mods and I think you had better dedicate more than one day. You could probably get the idle tune and load a stock 2g timing and fuel map, but you will need to cruise around to dial in that part and WOT will come last usually, working up to different RPM's as you go. There are a few members on here that are willing to help out and I am sure they will look at this post and chime in for more info for you. You will like Link, it is a very useful tool! I tune my own, but it has taken quite a while to get it ironed out and I am still working on one small area that gives me a fit. @GST with PSI is very very helpful on this stuff. Brian, are you out there???

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His name is Brian too? That's awesome yeah I been trying to get link since I pretty much got the car. Finally was able to. I only get two days off a week next week will be Wed and Thursday I will do it then I hopefully have a buddy coming to help but he doesn't know what his schedule will be at his job. I just don't wanna blow it up

b00zt3d spyd3r said:

Seeing that I'm a complete noob with link

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b00zt3d spyd3r said:

would I be able to get it installed and dialed in within 1 day or should I give myself more time?

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Lolz. Unless you're one of those rain man type motherfuckers, you're looking days, if not weeks or months to get proficient...And that's with good help. On your own, who knows.

No, I would not expect someone looking at Link for the first time to dial in any part of the tune in a day. I mean, it's not rocket science, and there's tons of material to reference, but it's still a decent learning curve for most.

My advice? Follow the ECMlink templates provided, post a log, get feedback, make adjustments, learn.

Rinse.

Repeat.

Keep in mind, mistakes made during the learning process of tuning have the potential to leave you poor and walking...

IT all depends on how prepared you are. I you have a good understanding of everything you need to do, you may be able to get a safe, conservative, non-aggressive (did i say safe?) tuning for closed loop driving to get you back and forth to work. By no means will WOT be dialed in or your boost turned up. Most likely your fuel trims will even still be less than ideal.

If it was me I would wait till i didn't have to go anywhere for 2 days.

Edit: I have a similar set-up, it wasn't that bad to dial in, but i did it slowly as i built the car. All at once could be iffy.

You could get it dialed in in one day, if you lived near Brett and had a case of beer to offer.

When I first got link it took me at least a week of driving and logging to get a real feel for the program, it's one thing to watch the videos before you get the program, it's another ballpark entirely to have the program in front of you and be able to see the changes that you make to your idle and deadtimes cause real world changes with your car.


I'd say if you had a few hours to devote and could get wifi wherever your car was sitting so you could scroll through the websites, you might be able to get your idle sorted out.

But will I be able to drive it within two days? Like I said it's my daily driver I just need it running. And not so rich as it is now. Will the ecu come with a stock tune on it already?

If you bought it brand new from ECMlink it should come with your injector size, maf setup and the stock 2g maps loaded. I mean it'll be driveable.. but to what extent? I can't rightly say. Looking at your mod list, you might be able to get a rough idle/cruise tune sorted if you had a day or two of tinkering to get it sorted out, don't even think about WOT yet though.

19gsx91 said:

If you bought it brand new from ECMlink it should come with your injector size, maf setup and the stock 2g maps loaded. I mean it'll be driveable.. but to what extent? I can't rightly say. Looking at your mod list, you might be able to get a rough idle/cruise tune sorted if you had a day or two of tinkering to get it sorted out, don't even think about WOT yet though.

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It is brand new from ecmtuning ecu and all. Not really worried about wot pulls right off top but I have to drive to drop kids of at school and to work every day

b00zt3d spyd3r said:

Not really worried about wot pulls right off top

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After a basic setup, every car I tune starts at WOT. I dial in WOT, cruise, and then idle last. That especially holds true when I'm tuning cars on SD.

The main reason I do this is so I can get my global fuel values on point at WOT so they are static by the time I dial in cruise and idle.

On a SD car specifically, having global fuel set correctly will allow you to properly scale the entire VE table. If global is off, your table will either be scaled high or low depending on if the global fuel value is set lean or rich.

Long story short, I worry about WOT pulls right off the top, and that's what I'd be asking for if I were tuning your car.

When I say basic setup, I'm just looking to see if the car is in good mechanical shape. If it is, all you really need to do is post a log with a snapshot of your settings. That's pretty much all I would need to tell you whether or not your turd will blow up if you go out and beat on it. Also, obviously, ensure your boost is set at a manageable level. So long as all of the above is good to go, you can make WOT pulls to your heart's desire.

GST with PSI said:

After a basic setup, every car I tune starts at WOT. I dial in WOT, cruise, and then idle last. That especially holds true when I'm tuning cars on SD.

The main reason I do this is so I can get my global fuel values on point at WOT so they are static by the time I dial in cruise and idle.

On a SD car specifically, having global fuel set correctly will allow you to properly scale the entire VE table. If global is off, your table will either be scaled high or low depending if the global fuel value is lean or rich.

Long story short, I worry about WOT pulls right off the top, and that's what I'd be asking for if I were tuning your car.

When I say basic setup, I'm just looking to see if the car is in good mechanical shape. If it is, all you really need to do is post a log with a snapshot of your settings. That's pretty much all I would need to tell you your turd probably won't blow if if you go out and beat on it. Also, obviously, ensure your boost is set at a manageable level. So long as all of the above is good to go, you can make WOT pulls to your heart's desire.

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Okay thanks for the info man I'm honestly a Lil intimidated by all this . I will start working on it Wednesday since I have Thursday off too. I'll definitely have to learn quick . I don't think it'll blow up though I've beat on it a Lil but but not too bad. its on safc-2 right now and it sucks . Other than it running rich it's in pretty good shape need to do a blt though I'm pretty sure I have a leak since my front bumper bottom out. Need to raise it back up about 3-4 inch

GST with PSI said:

After a basic setup, every car I tune starts at WOT. I dial in WOT, cruise, and then idle last. That especially holds true when I'm tuning cars on SD.

The main reason I do this is so I can get my global fuel values on point at WOT so they are static by the time I dial in cruise and idle.

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The reason I suggested avoiding any WOT tuning was because he is still new to the setup, with tuning and cruise you can make fairly drastic changes with little to no repercussions.. whereas someone new to the program making large changes to the DA tables and forgetting to zero out those same changes in the basic tab could have serious consequences.

Otherwise I agree 100%, when I switch to SD here shortly I'll probably be sending you a few logs for consideration.

19gsx91 said:

with tuning and cruise you can make fairly drastic changes with little to no repercussions.. whereas someone new to the program making large changes to the DA tables and forgetting to zero out those same changes in the basic tab could have serious consequences

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Yeah, agreed.

It's here!!! I almost busted a nut

Link isn't that bad to learn Marty and I worked together to help each other out over the years. And with link I read watched the videos and learned a lot.

iugrad92turbo said:

Link isn't that bad to learn Marty and I worked together to help each other out over the years. And with link I read watched the videos and learned a lot.

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Man I can't wait till it's all dialed in, wot, cruise, everything so I can drive normal and then drag "muscle cars" from the light

I recommend going to the last few weeks of ECMLINK threads on this site. this way you can get answer , you will probably have during your initial learning curve.

And GST is constantly schooling people on those threads, with helpful links and references.
Plus it saves him the repetition. This is valuable since he is one of FEW willing to help.

Lol my wife is mad cuz that's all I been doing since I ordered it and I'm glad there's someone willing to help I appreciate all I can get

On more question... Do I need to do the clutch cut thing? I already don't have to.ousb clutch to start

Not necessary. My cut is my right foot .

Don't forget to swap your plug wires!

doubleclutch said:

Don't forget to swap your plug wires!

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Can I just take them out till I'm done installing?

Not sure what you mean by that.

Follow this:
http://www.ecmlink.com/wiki/swapplugwires?s[]=plug&s[]=wires
http://www.ecmlink.com/wiki/swapplugwires?s[]=plug&s[]=wires

As long as you don't try to start the thing until you swap them, just leave them where they are at.

doubleclutch said:

Not sure what you mean by that.

Follow this:
http://www.ecmlink.com/wiki/swapplugwires?s[]=plug&s[]=wires

As long as you don't try to start the thing until you swap them, just leave them where they are at.

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I mean like... Take the plug wires out, install link, then put them back in

doubleclutch said:

Not sure what you mean by that.

Follow this:
http://www.ecmlink.com/wiki/swapplugwires?s[]=plug&s[]=wires

As long as you don't try to start the thing until you swap them, just leave them where they are at.

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oh okay I don't need new plug wires I'll have to rearrange them... I have 1g head with cas on passenger side of valve cover. So I'll need to invert cas and rearrange plug wires?