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geosok

Proven Member
116
6
Jan 12, 2017
Las Vegas, Nevada
Hey again, I'm back hoping for more help because I am at a loss. I have been watching the demo videos, reading the ecm wiki, searching forums and youtube and I can't get the most basic issue dealt with.

I installed the v3 chip and my FIC 1120 injectors with no problems. I have gone over the multiple checklists on this site and theirs and have checked all the boxes. The car was running great before on the v2 with 720s and a custom tune done by the previous owners mechanic.

Here is the issue I am having, my idle will not drop below 1500 rpms steadily and visually/ear test bounces between 12-1600. I have attached a data log I did after getting her up to operating temp. I have gone over all the info I can find, tweaked parameters and nothing changes the idle, my AF gauge bounces between 14.2 and 14.9.

I am on 91 pump gas at the moment, I have high compression pistons (10:1) that have always been run on over 100 octane and my goal as stated in my other post is to run e85 99% of the time but I wanted to do the pump gas tune first because that was the nearest station and I know I'll need it at some point.

Am I missing something or am I just a moron? I am crazy new to this, as I've stated before, and I just want to get everything right so I can do the more advanced/fun stuff correctly.

Thanks again in advance
 

Attachments

  • log.2017.02.06-01c.elg
    27.7 KB · Views: 63
Thanks again 91, I'll tweak the TPS accordingly. And yeah, I had the biss set at a turn and a half out and then moved the throttle stop, I'm guessing that's why the instant stall. I've got it backed out 5 turns now and it runs just with an idle around 800.

I'll double check everything and then look into the deadtime.

All the help is greatly appreciated as always.
 
Well, let this post be an apology and a warning for any other newb that may come across it. I spent two days going over everything again trying to solve the weird idle and tps/biss adjustments when frustration led me back to step one, air leaks.

Instead of boost/vac leak testing at the turbo I did it right at the throttle body and holy hell the thing was a damn sieve, there was damn near more air coming out of the throttle body that staying in. I don't know how the hell it was holding pressure when I first did the test but everything was leaking. I started with new gaskets and a thin layer of rtv which worked perfectly, then redoing the caps on the two nipples on top of the TB by looping a hose to them both. Then with that dealt with I could hear/feel air coming from the biss screw, new oring and life was good, for a moment, still a massive air leak that I couldn't find at first until i bumped the damn throttle lever, shaft seals shot to hell too.

Seriously kids, if gurus are telling you its an air leak, check 100 times because it's a damn air leak. I feel like such an ass wasting everyone's time but hopefully when the new seals show up on tuesday and the TB is back in place I'll finally be able to follow all the previous advice properly.

The only silver lining is that I was able to build a custom fiberglass sub box and get all the stereo piece ready to rock. Oh and do hours of research on suspension parts because I found out the previous owner installed the ksport drag kit so that has to go asap, like next week asap.

Thanks again and apologies for getting over my skis so quickly. Oh and read the warning again, IT'S AN AIR LEAK, LOL
 
Nice. Vacuum leak is not the same as boost leak. I usually pressurize the system and make sure my boost gauge in the car is actually reading what I am targeting. I wanted 22psi and I targeted 26psi. Once inside it was reading 26 I went to look for l leaks. I just changed my seals too on the 90. Had massive problem with sealing evo injectors. Used extra o ring. Now set basic global fuel settings and work those mafcomp adjustment until fuel trims are within 5. Good luck.
 
Just to clarify, because as you can see from my previous problems I can try way too hard to hit instructions perfectly, I get the vac and boost aren't the same but after reading a lot of posts where people were saying the test for boost/vac leaks are the same.

Am I wrong on that? If it's a "closed" system pulling vacuum until you are under boost wont the leaks be there in either direction of air flow? I understand what you mean by testing to what boost value you want to run because if it only holds to 15psi but you're running 30psi of boost it's kind of a problem, LOL.

Yeah, getting it all figured out, obscene amount of reading forums, LOL.

Thanks again for the millionth time.
 
That's interesting that you found leaks when switching to the throttle body. Hell, maybe I'll try that and see what I find. It really is true that a lot of issues with these are cars are air leaks. People do a crappy job testing for leaks because they don't know any better, then somebody comes along and shows them all the leaks they missed.
 
yeah, it's crazy how bad the leaks were, had I not been getting so pissed trying to follow everyone's advice on the idle settings I never would have tried moving the tester, my dumb ass would have bought a new motor or some such nonsense thinking that there weren't any leaks, LOL.

With how much air was ripping out of the TB I have no idea how the hell it was holding pressure when I tested at the turbo inlet. I can only imagine how nice the idle will be not to mention the gain in power with all the leaks fixed.
 
Yeah, a lot of people keep throwing parts at the problem. It's a much better solution to learn how to use a voltimeter and do diagnostic tests correctly. It's so much more rewarding to learn how to diagnose than give up and have it shipped to a shop and have them do it.
 
Finally got the leaks fixed, quite a saga with the shaft seals but they are officially in. The entire system is holding air the way it should, I sprayed soapy water all over the damn place to make sure. I just got done taking her for a spin to get gas and recharge the battery. I set the tps to .63v engine off and when I just got back sitting at idle it was up to .65v but at least nothing worse this time.

Car is running way smoother too, idle was solid without a surge at all. No obnoxious early blow off or waste gate chirping and the vac/boost gauge was moving a lot smoother. Biss screw is 3 turns out right now. I know I still have tweaks to make but at least she is alive and better at this point. I attached a log that I just took in the driveway, not perfect but I'll have a chance to mess around all day tomorrow.
 

Attachments

  • log.2017.03.04-01.elg
    38.8 KB · Views: 49
Hola, I realized that the log I posted yesterday was beyond pointless, my apologies, my newness is showing again, I'll see if I can tuck that away.

Had a chance to mess with the car all morning. Got the numbers looking pretty good and then the confusion hit again. I have attached 3 logs. The first is idling in the driveway where I was following all the previous instructions and got the tps volts perfect, the ISCpos hovering around 30 and the combinedft hovering around 0%. (the lrndidle would never get to 140 but I just read about that so i'm not sure if you all feel it's important.)

I turned the car off, went inside to grab my shades and wallet, came out, fired up the car and while idling reconnected to the ecu. All the numbers were different, by a lot. I had been idling for over an hour while making all the adjustments, stopped for 2 minutes and then it was like I didn't ever touch the car. Hence, confusion.

Anyway, the next two logs are me driving "out" and "in" from my house (you can tell I golf with that label job). The only tweak I made when coming back in was I changed the deadtime to try and get the combinedft back to around 0% at idle.

Any thoughts? Should I just go get a bicycle at this point? LOL

Thanks in advance.
 

Attachments

  • log.2017.03.05-01driveway.elg
    86.6 KB · Views: 35
  • log.2017.03.05-01in.elg
    344.4 KB · Views: 36
  • log.2017.03.05-01out.elg
    266.4 KB · Views: 34
No, the afr in link still isn't working correctly. At idle the gauge is between 14.7 and 15, and under power it goes down to 13ish. Still need to track down what is up with the gauge.

Still haven't done any hard pulls or even fully punched it while cruising around. Trying to take baby steps and make sure I at least have it idling correctly
 
I just had a thought, will I be able to log fuel trims if my wide band is being uppity? The gauge is working in the car and it looks hooked up but I am going to go over the info I got yesterday and really track it down. Basically do I need to fix the gauge connection, assuming it's broken, before those fuel trims will even log correctly? Thanks
 
No fuel trims are something the ECU creates on its own, they work without a WB. Unless you're simulating the NB the wideband is basically just a reference tool. I don't think the 2g ECU uses ltfthi. And the mafcomp tool should get them all pretty close.
 
Is your WB tapped off of the feed wire to the guage and then ran over to the ECU for input? My LC2 had to be wired that way. Just throwing that out there, trying to help too!
 
I looked on the vfaq a few weeks ago when it was first brought to my attention and followed the wire coming off the gauge through the firewall into the ecu harness. I'm thinking I either crossed up the wire as I was following it, it isn't connected correctly or it's doing something else weird.

I'll probably just pull all the wires and re-run them so I know what the hell is going on instead of assuming it was done correctly. After finding the copious air leaks I'm a bit more inclined to run things down with my own eyes as opposed to taking someones word for it. Plus, as frustrating as it can be damn is it fun working on this beauty.
 
My Innovate gauge just taps off of the WB sensor feed wire for the gauge then runs over to the ECU so that they HAVE to read the same. Does your wire go back out to the engine bay to feed the ECU?? My instructions told me to use a different color wire but it didn't like to talk to Link so I used the gauge wire and split it into two wires, one to the gauge and one to the computer. Maybe this will help or I just got confused on where you were having issues with yours at.
 
I appreciate the help man, any info I'll take right now. From what I was told, the gauge is in the A pillar and has a wire running to the ecu and the sensor. Where my confusion comes up is finding how the wires were actually run so I can really track them down and after running new car audio wires this last week and seeing how other things were done I'm not too confident it was ever hooked up correctly.

Even though I can see the same colored wire connecting to the ecu and the gauge is working in the a pillar it just doesn't make sense as to why it's not working so I'm going to look into your info as well as go over everything again. Let's put it this way, I found a triple spliced and molexed ground wire that was only spanning a foot behind the aftermarket radio when I took it out so I need to get my hands on these WB wires stat, LOL
 
Almost all of us have to straighten out someone else's mess. Good luck, wiring issues can be very frustrating but don't let it get to you, you are going about it the right way by trying to correct someone else's goof ups or just plain shoddy a** wiring jobs.
 
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