Chaoticdopey said:

I have the tune saved in my email and when it started running bad i downloaded it and put all those settings in from the dyno day with no change. So ive reverted back to the tune RRE did for me. And i dont have a Maf to put back on. I have no stock parts for this car at all as i bought it on speed density over a year ago. I do have the last tune before i swapped the engine. The question is now will it even run right being the stock motor was 7.8:1 and this engine has Ross 8.5:1 pistons? The stock engine was also on a manual boost controller as this one is on an Ingersol Rand valve controlled by ecmlink and also the stock engine was not on e85

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In that case no your old tune wont work. SD is extremely sensitive to any change in airflow. This is what I would do if you can figure out what's going on. Get a MAF and put it on, load the evomod1 or stock 2g fuel and tuning maps, your ECU is already configured for E85 and your injector size so leave those, configure ecu to read airflow from maf. Actually before you do all that, go into the misc setting tab and make sure they didn't enable the ecu to check for misfires. I had this same damn problem, cars idled like shit and wouldn't rev past 3k. what happened was my CAS was going bad and sent a false misfire signal to the ECU causing it to cut spark to cylinder #3. I unchecked the "misfire" box and boom, back in business.

it won't idle right if the tps looks like your foot is on the gas. Fix that by using the tps adjust tool. Also what version of link is that cause your options looked hella wierd.

REALLY you should manually adjust the TPS to .63 volts a zero throttle. Check for 5 volts at WOT, then use TPSAdjust in Link to match it up. You shouldn't have to use the adjustment very much to make it correct, if you are then you need to set it up manually first. Just a tip.

agreed, but at least the band aide would help get him in the right direction.

Yeah, it would HELP tell if there is something going on. I didn't think it would make much difference, but I readjusted mine just the other day to within .01 of a volt which I then corrected in Link but if it is a much more, then a physical adjustment is needed. It is just 2 screws to make it right. If a Link adjustment helps, then he should go ahead and do the manual adjustment and reset the offset values and check that off the list of things that could be the culprit.

Sounds like the tune is all jacked up now. Fix that then throw a 150shot on top and you'll be happier.

doubleclutch said:

it won't idle right if the tps looks like your foot is on the gas. Fix that by using the tps adjust tool. Also what version of link is that cause your options looked hella wierd.

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Its V3 Full with the newest firmware to support the flex fuel sensor

Vegas smith said:

Sounds like the tune is all jacked up now. Fix that then throw a 150shot on top and you'll be happier.

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But i want to have fun with my car not blow a rod out the side or blow a hole in the piston with NOS

Chaoticdopey said:

Its V3 Full with the newest firmware to support the flex fuel sensor

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Maybe it just looks different because it is a 1g.

Any update on trying to get those fuel trims taken care of? It is clearly getting more air then it thinks it is.

Also, i watched you video again, that engine really doesn't sound too good. That has to be the worst lifter/cam noise i have heard in a while.

doubleclutch said:

Maybe it just looks different because it is a 1g.

Any update on trying to get those fuel trims taken care of? It is clearly getting more air then it thinks it is.

Also, i watched you video again, that engine really doesn't sound too good. That has to be the worst lifter/cam noise i have heard in a while.

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Must be the video cause it is not loud at all. And i dont know how to fix the fuel trims but im waiting for the new coil pack and im going to go from there. 1 thing at a time so im not wasting money.

I haven't had a chance to look at his log on a computer but if his Short Term Fuel Trims are the ones outta wack, then adjust the deadtime after the O2 sensor begins to cycle and STFT's are registering. You adjust the deadtime up or down and then look at your STFT's again. Keep adjusting DT until your STFT's are within 5% of zero. It will still fluctuate up and down, but when you are close, it will only vary a few percent up and down away from zero. Reset your fuel trims before trying this and wait on the O2 sensor to start cycling.

All these little problems are either compounding into a bigger problem, or they might just be disguising it. Start chipping away at these small things that don't seem like they would make a difference. By the time you correct all those things you should be in much better shape to figure out why its not running right.

Focus on why cylinders 2 and 3 don't make a change when unplugged. Messing around with the tune is not going to fix it and your going to be chasing your tail trying to figure it out.

rabenne said:

All these little problems are either compounding into a bigger problem, or they might just be disguising it. Start chipping away at these small things that don't seem like they would make a difference. By the time you correct all those things you should be in much better shape to figure out why its not running right.

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Want to make me a list and ill start from there?

boostdawd said:

Focus on why cylinders 2 and 3 don't make a change when unplugged. Messing around with the tune is not going to fix it and your going to be chasing your tail trying to figure it out.

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thats why im waiting for the new coilpack. Hopefull that fixes it. But while im waiting i might just pull the coilpack off my known running gst and see if it makes a difference. These coil packs are a bi*** to remove. Still trying to figure out how to get the back bolt out..

Coil pack problem? That is a good way to test then just put the new one on the other car. It sounds like one is bad but I think the PT also tells which pack to fire. It's kinda a PITA too but you could do the Power Transistor test that is described on here too.
Let me tell ya what I saw. I looked at your around the block log and we definately gotta get the TPS calibrated. Before each log, turn the car on and start the log, then when the log is started, push the gas All the way to the floor, WOT. After that start her up. That way we can see the TPS is working properly. Also, I would turn off the interpolation of the dual maps and I see the stoic on the log was in gas at 14.7. On E85 you should be at 9.8. Those are just observations. I am just trying to help out. You do your own testing on the tune or if it is entirely on E85, the TimimgMaxOct and OpenLoopMaxOct maps will be the only ones the ECU looks at so uncheck the interpolate box and lets just work on one tune.

I am stumped at how pulling the plug makes no difference, but pulling the injector makes it stumble some and then go back to normal. Anyone else?

Probably a weak a$$ spark. That does seem odd. On a good running engine it should definately stumpble if you pull the plug cable. I'm leaning towards a bad coil pack or ecu issue/wiring.

doubleclutch said:

I am stumped at how pulling the plug makes no difference, but pulling the injector makes it stumble some and then go back to normal. Anyone else?

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I would bet the wideband gets is over rich when the injector is plugged in but no spark. Maybe that is effecting the ECU in turn effecting the way it runs. I am only guessing but it would be dumping basically raw fuel if the spark isn't there.

boostdawd said:

Probably a weak a$$ spark. That does seem odd. On a good running engine it should definately stumpble if you pull the plug cable. I'm leaning towards a bad coil pack or ecu issue/wiring.

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ok im confused, stumped, bamboozled, beat. i changed the coil pack and power transistor with no change. im pulling the intercooler off right now to see if maybe a rag or something got stuck in it. its idled like this since the engine was swapped in but ran great. so idle runs on cyl 1-4 and once gas is applied all cylinders fire but break up under actual load by 3k... Ive uncheck interpolate and calibrated my TPS. im just in awe of how it just sitting waiting for a new turbo could cause it to act like a little bi***...

Dude, this thread is a million pages long and I have no idea what's been done or not, or what the problem actually is. This thread is hurting my brain.

Go to the ECMlink sub-forum and fill out the template provided. State the overall problem, and make a short concise list of the things that have been done.

If the car does this under certain conditions, include a log of said problem.

The guys here (myself included) will be able to give you much better advice at that point.

GST with PSI said:

Dude, this thread is a million pages long and I have no idea what's been done or not, or what the problem actually is. This thread is hurting my brain.

Go to the ECMlink sub-forum and fill out the template provided. State the overall problem, and make a short concise list of the things that have been done.

If the car does this under certain conditions, include a log of said problem.

The guys here (myself included) will be able to give you much better advice at that point.

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Where is this sub forum you speak of?

You're in it.

When you posted this thread, the template was literally on the front page. It will be the questions listed directly under the RED print. Look familiar?

GST with PSI said:

You're in it.

When you posted this thread, the template was literally on the front page. It will be the questions listed directly under the RED print. Look familiar?

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

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New Thread made.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/break-up-and-idle-issues.510409/