Thanks for the tip, I snagged the bottom recirc part from Tial and once I have it all installed I can do the boost/vac leak test and then hopefully get the idle and cruise all sorted. Thanks again everyone.

Also, I checked the wiring on the wideband and it looks to be all hooked up to the ecu, even in pin 75 like the vfaq recommends. I'm going to have to run down where to check that it's being read by v3 or I have somehow followed the wrong wire, .

You probably just have to go to the inputs tab and tell it that it is connected.

This is you.


This is what it should look like:


or something similar.

Thanks doubleclutch, I'll make sure to double check the settings

Hey all, I finally got the part in and built the vac/boost leak tester and have been screwing around for the last few hours. Attached are some images and a few logs I just took in my driveway. I'll explain everything I did today and hopefully you all can shed some light.

First, I followed this link, http://www.evolutionm.net/forums/evo-how-tos-installations/339529-how-boost-leak-tester-5-02-a.html in order to do the leak test. No leaks that I could find at all, I had my compressor set at 5, 10, 15 and 20 psi and it would just sit there so I think I'm good in the dept. Set me straight if I'm wrong please.

Second, snagged the Tial QR bottom and then followed this http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/hd-spa-hose-recirculation-tube.442537/ to take car of the recirculating issue.

Third, back out the throttle set screw and then set it to where it just moved the lever, set the BISS screw a turn and a half out from bottom and then adjusted the TPS Sensor until it read .63v with the engine off but key on (on a side note, whoever picked the bottom screw location of the TPS sensor should be found and murdered in the street as a warning to all other designers.)

Fourth, fired her up and she instantly stalled, I expected that with all the set screw moving I did. Warmed her up and then kept doing half turns on the screw until I got the idle "stable". Did the first and second log with these manual settings and everything else in Link as instructed before. Idle and wideband gauge were bouncing again and the idlesw was still reading zero.

Last, on the final two logs I followed the demo video and used the TPS adjust settings to see what it would do and my idle and wideband were damn near unmoving, just sitting at 1200ish and 14.8, the adjustments were different than before too, -10 and 104% compared to the -16 and 107% originally. I know I have the idle in Link set at 1000 but it felt like progress. Should I leave it idling with the current setting and then tweak the screws until it gets to the 1000 rpm?

Tried a bunch of different settings to figure out why the wideband isn't logging correctly so I still need to figure that out. Very weird, guess I'll be wiring chasing tomorrow morning.

Any thoughts/advice is greatly appreciated as always. Thanks in advance.

The tps still isn't adjusted properly. In the first log idling your tpsvolts are at .80v, it should be .63v. The idle switch is probably not working because you have the tps turned to the point its at 4% throttle when closed. That idle switch signal is the only thing telling the ecu it needs to be idling, using that tps adjust feature is just band aiding it being misadjusted.
Zero out the adjustments you made, and adjust tyour tps again maybe it rotated when you tightened it down or something. It should say .63v with the engine off or running, its just a lot easier to adjust with it not running.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/adjust-your-tps.509898/
Edit: yes that bottom TPS screw is a real mother, I changed mine out for some with Allen heads made it way easier.

Damn, I misunderstood, I thought it was just to be adjusted to .63v with the engine off, I saw the volts go up when I started the car but figured I was good.

Allen screws is a damn good idea. Thanks

I'll zero everything out again and get the tps to .63v and go from there. Should I leave the manual adjustments alone at this point?

Yeah get that TPS right, then post a log, and we'll go from there. FT, ISCpos, rpm, lots of things are gonna change once the ECU sees that idle switch signal. Also make sure you have the box that says "enable idle switch operation" checked. I see its not checked in the first log, so it's turned off entirely

Ok, first, the allen screw idea was pure gold. Man that made it 1000 times easier. Thank you for that.

Got the tpsvolts to .63 engine off or on, idle was way better. Even took a spin around the block and everything was smoother.

I blipped the throttle to see what the tpsadjust settings would say and it was at 1 and 102% so way better there too.

Still idling a bit faster than I have it set in Link but now that the voltage is correct do I do the manual adjustments to get it down to the 1000 I'm looking for?

Driveway and Drive around the block logs attached.

Thanks in advance yet again.

I'm on my phone right now so can't see the log, I'll check it out when I get home.

This should help you understand the process of how the BISS works and is set and basic ISC operation. http://www.ecmtuning.com/wiki/idlesurge

Basically you want the ISCpos to be around 30 when fully warmed up and all the accessories off (lights, fans, sound system). Screwing the BISS out should lower the ISCpos value and screwing it in should raise it. Take your time and make small adjustments with a few minutes of idling in between, it takes a while for the ECU to react. Should you find that screwing it all the way in does not bring your idle down to target, you have an air leak somewhere.

Read that whole page, every sentence, it's the DSM idle Bible. It also contains info you need to know about adjustments you need to make running a higher than stock target idle speed. Like "Coasting FC offset" and how ignition timing can affect a higher idle.

I'll get to reading that asap. Thanks

Alright, I read and reread the link and got down to doing the biss adjustment. Never could get it perfectly stable on 30 but just above or below. Then the fan would kick on, I'd see the numbers change and the the fan would shut off and it would never go back to the stable number it was at before.

I checked for a biss leak and no change to idle, I did a vac/boost leak test again and I hear nothing. Took the car out for a drive and the vac boost gauge is stable.

Any ideas? Thanks

It doesn't need to be exactly 30, it will move around quite a bit, you just want it to hover around 30.
Is your idle closer to target now that you have it around there?

The idle was much closer to target when it was hovering around 30. Being such a newbie I was trying like hell to get it to stick at 30, . I was doing millimeter adjustments and then staring at my laptop. Haha, it's fun being the new guy and by fun I mean painful.

Thanks again, I'll do another log in the morning so you can let me know what else I'm missing.

Seriously appreciate the help everyone.

Haha sorry, I should've been more clear about that.

Hey hey,
I've officially reached a point of total confusion. I've gone from having the bouncing idle and tps adjustments all over the map but with a ISCpos pretty stable on or around 30 to a perfectly zeroed tps adjustment, .63v tpsvolts, solid idle adjusted via the set screw and biss screw because the damn ISCpos will either sit at 100, 50ish or 7-15.

I have spent hours trying to figure this out and am at a loss. I've tried starting with the biss screw all the way in, then adjusting the idle to damn near stalling via the set screw so that as I back the biss out the ISCpos goes down as the idle goes back up close to target. I've done the opposite. I'm not sure where to go from here, because even though I can get the car to idle and drive nice and smooth it's driving me insane that the settings aren't correct and I'm assuming that by having the settings off when I start doing WOT tuning things are going to get ugly.

I'm going to review everything and watch the tuning vid again but if anyone has any ideas I'd appreciate it. Also, I still have no leaks, the ecu isn't burnt out and I can't imagine anything else is busted seeing as how I can get the numbers to move just not stop where I need,

Thanks

When you say "set screw", I assume you're talking about the thing threaded into the firewall side that contacts the throttle lever.

If that's what you are taking about its the idle switch on a 1g throttle body (isn't used as the idle switch on a 2g car) and just a plain throttle stop on the 2g TB.

Either way whatever TB you have, and whatever is screwed in there, should be threaded in 15/16th of a turn past the point it begins to contact the throttle lever. Why 15/16th of a turn? No idea, it's just what the Factory Service Manual says. If you don't have it exact it's not gonna be a big deal, but you don't want to be screwing it in using that to raise/lower the idle. If you have it screwed in to the point that the throttle is open too much your ISCpos will never be right. Screw it out to where it doesn't stop the lever in the right spot and the plate will stick shut.

The ISCpos you see in link is the position the ECU has told the ISC to be at. A value of 0 is ISC fully closed, a value of 120 or something is fully open. When adjusted properly it's only gonna hover around 30 when fully warm, no accessories on, and idling. It is going to wander all kinds of places under any other condition.

Ex: Car is warmed up idling at target speed with the ECU commanding an ISCpos of 30. Then say the fans turn on. The engine is put under more load, idle speed drops, the ECU reacts and tells the ISC to open to a higher position allowing more air in thus bringing the idle speed back up.

Also when working properly, you aren't gonna see a constant 30 ISCpos when idling with everything off. The idle bounces around naturally, especially with cams, and ISCpos will slightly bounce around with it.

Thanks again for the clarification. I am taking things way to literally with this car. Last car I really worked on was a classic mini that I had in a rally setup but that thing had no computers. I think I used maybe 1 screw driver and 2 different sockets to fix, .

Yeah, I was obviously mixing up 1G and 2G info online because the "set-screw" I have been dicking with is on the back/bottom left of the throttle body and it moves the throttle lever. I will get it back to factory and then get the number ISCpos back to hovering around 30.

Once that's done, which I have done already so I'm confidant I can do it again. What would you recommend as the next step? WOT pulls or go for a cruise and get the fuel/maf data logged for fuel trim tweaks like in the demo vids? Side note, I need to figure out why the hell my wideband isn't being logged before I do either of these correct?

Thanks and if I'm ever in Spencer drinks are on me

geosok said:

Thanks again for the clarification. I am taking things way to literally with this car. Last car I really worked on was a classic mini that I had in a rally setup but that thing had no computers. I think I used maybe 1 screw driver and 2 different sockets to fix, .

Yeah, I was obviously mixing up 1G and 2G info online because the "set-screw" I have been dicking with is on the back/bottom left of the throttle body and it moves the throttle lever. I will get it back to factory and then get the number ISCpos back to hovering around 30.

Once that's done, which I have done already so I'm confidant I can do it again. What would you recommend as the next step? WOT pulls or go for a cruise and get the fuel/maf data logged for fuel trim tweaks like in the demo vids? Side note, I need to figure out why the hell my wideband isn't being logged before I do either of these correct?

Thanks and if I'm ever in Spencer drinks are on me

Click to expand...

Yes, get your wideband logging first. Just good to have that data. Then go and get your cruise data and do the maf adjustments. This will help with your WOT pulls.

Yes next thing to do is get your fuel trims in check for idle and cruise. If you'd like to post another log I'd be happy to look it over and help you dial it in. I might be able to tell you why your wideband isn't logging by your ECUconfig.

^ nice guys like this, are rare.

miliman13 said:

^ nice guys like this, are rare.

Click to expand...

Very True, online or in person...

Anywho, nothing like an unplanned trip that turns into hell on earth to get in the way of tuning your car. About to start messing with it again so hopefully i'll have a couple of logs in a little while that I am sure I will need some help/explanation with.

Im again totally dumbfounded by this whole thing. I got the set screw 15/16ths of a turn in after making contact with the throttle lever. I set the tps volts to .63 when the engine is off. Then I fire it up and it is instant stall. So, I hold the pedal down a bit until its warm and then a sputter around 500 rpm and then stall. So, I keep jumping in and out of the car moving the biss screw out until there is a steady idle, not where I want it but alive enough for me to start a log. Now the volts are at .67 and the ISCpos is over 100.

I even checked the tps adjust for fun and it was perfect at 0 and 100% when the car was off. So damn confused.

Logs attached, any suggestions would be great, thanks

Side note, I always seem to have the tps volts change from engine off to on. I watched the link about tuning first with engine off but if the volts are going to change what's the point? Or should they not move or is it more important to have them at .63 off or on?

Thanks

If you moved the throttle stop after your original biss adjustment, the throttle plate probably closed some blocking off air, which would require backing the biss out more. Screwing the biss out should bring iscpos down.

The tps is very sensitive to movement, vibration, expansion of the parts due to heat, stuff like that can cause those little fluctuations you see. Mine is usually .61v off and .63v on. Occasionally it will hang at .65v running. As long as you have it around there, you should have no problems, just don't let it get up around .67v because that's around the 1% throttle mark.

Your airflowperrev looks good, but combinedft is significantly positive. In the fuel tab under ecu config, add deadtime until you see combinedft get closer to 0%. You can transfer these adjustments to direct access later. It will never stay at exactly 0%, this is another one of those things where its gonna swing around the desired value. You should be able to get it to where it bounces within +/- 5% or so, if not a little less.