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ECMlink Car wont idle or rev correctly

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Nothing has changed but you've touched a lot of stuff since the tune (turbo,injectors,the actual tune,plugs). You need to go back over what you touched. Maybe the injectors got messed up with you cleaning them. Maybe a spark plug tip got bent. Swapping a turbo isn't going to cause the car to run rough and not rev over 4500 in neutral.
 
rabenne said:
If trying to lower base idle doesnt work that might be an indication that your getting too much air into the intake at idle. The BISS screw should have the ability to lower the engine rpm to the point it chokes out. If you run it in and its not bringing idle down than go through the idle surge checklist. It covers all the oddball things that cause too much air into the intake at idle, assuming no external leaks.

If you are putting 35 psi into the manifold than you basically should have found any major leaks that would cause your high idle. It is possible you are leaking internally somewhere. Do you have vac pump? can you test all your vac actuators? Brake booster is an easy one to forget about, but usually you can feel problems in the booster through the pedal.

I wish I could give you a second set of eyes. I personally would go back over anything you touched at all, I mean laid a finger on, while replacing the turbo. This could be something you are just looking past because you have seen your own car so many times.
Click to expand...
i dont have a vacuum pump and all my vacuum lines have been deleted, also the egr valve was deleted also with a block off plate from extremepsi, im going to check for misfire first but i live in a state that gets no rain and all of a sudden were flooded in and its raining every day so once it stops ill get to it and report back.
 
gsxeclipse102 said:
Nothing has changed but you've touched a lot of stuff since the tune (turbo,injectors,the actual tune,plugs). You need to go back over what you touched. Maybe the injectors got messed up with you cleaning them. Maybe a spark plug tip got bent. Swapping a turbo isn't going to cause the car to run rough and not rev over 4500 in neutral.
Click to expand...
turbo is the same, the injectors are the same just clean and with new seals, the tune is saved on my computer and i have not change the settings on the actual tune, this car was idling wierd when it was tuned but stayed idling and it ran great..

heres a vid of how the car sounded when it was getting tuned and 20 minutes later the turbo blew and the car sat for over a month, i drained all the e85 out and flushed the system with some 110octane, when i got it running again i re flushed it with e85 which my flexfuel sensor is saying is e77, maybe that will help, and dont mind the smoke, the turbo return line was leaking oil and has since been fixed..

and also it will rev past 4500 in nuetral, it will even 2 step, but under actually driving load it will break up past 4k

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Seems like he was having a hard time getting it to idle after the pull.
 
How did the checkup go to make sure all plugs were getting spark. A leak with speed density will affect your tune but to an extent. It should still be drivable and pulling.

Remove your spark plugs and make sure all are good and getting spark. Could be a bad coilpack or something else causing the misfire. Definately not a leak.
 
boostdawd said:
How did the checkup go to make sure all plugs were getting spark. A leak with speed density will affect your tune but to an extent. It should still be drivable and pulling.

Remove your spark plugs and make sure all are good and getting spark. Could be a bad coilpack or something else causing the misfire. Definately not a leak.
Click to expand...


I totally believe you, but what about a bad coil pack or any misfire would cause an uncontrollably high idle? I think it's a combination of multiple issues. One of which seems to be a leak, causing the high idle. I am not saying you are wrong, but what else can cause the rpm to go too high at idle? Just so it too can be considered...
 
I will check plugs tomorrow, but my main concern is driving it. I dont mind a 1k - 1.2k idle i just want it to drive correctly. So ill buy a coil tomorrow. And any ome in here have at least 1200cc injectors they will trade for a Vbox Sport?
 
miliman13 said:
Im far from an expert.
This is what i notice.
At idle You are rich around 13+ vs 14.7AFR

Your calculated fuel settings are set for 1140cc injectors
But on ethanol you "run" smaller . see link
https://www.ecmtuning.com/wiki/e85fuel

Your AirFlow/Rev is 0.60 instead of 0.25-27.
But according to the wiki this is ambiguous so long as your CombinedFt are 0%, which yours are.
https://www.ecmtuning.com/wiki/quickieafsetup

you idle seems high, have you made adjustments at your TB to lower airFlow.? Unless you intent to idle a bit high.( based on your idle settings)

Contacting your tuner may help...
Click to expand...

Good advice. Your airflowperrev is insane at idle. Global fuel is definitely wrong. If they tuned sd table why did they touch fuel tab? Seems like a hack of a tune honestly
 
Chaoticdopey said:
i dont have a vacuum pump and all my vacuum lines have been deleted, also the egr valve was deleted also with a block off plate from extremepsi, im going to check for misfire first but i live in a state that gets no rain and all of a sudden were flooded in and its raining every day so once it stops ill get to it and report back.
Click to expand...

with all vac lines deleted how are you giving your FPR vac/pressure? Also deleted the brake booster? Boost gauges? BOV? Wastegate? those all are deleted?

You just ignore advice and claim that it couldn't be the issue. If your not going to check potential problems, figure it out yourself or take it back to RRE
 
rabenne said:
with all vac lines deleted how are you giving your FPR vac/pressure? Also deleted the brake booster? Boost gauges? BOV? Wastegate? those all are deleted?
You just ignore advice and claim that it couldn't be the issue. If your not going to check potential problems, figure it out yourself or take it back to RRE
Click to expand...
Fpr is connected as is the brake booster and boost gauge. I should have specified all vaccum to the evap system has been deleted. Im not ignoring anything. You guys are saying to do things ive checked already. There is some stuff i havnt check that you guys have told me and i will get on that today. If i wasnt going to check what you guys asked me why would i be asking questions in here? Im just stating what has been checked... I am very thankful for the advise given and am trying to learn as much as i can on the very low budget i have to work with.
 
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gsxeclipse102 said:
Good advice. Your airflowperrev is insane at idle. Global fuel is definitely wrong. If they tuned sd table why did they touch fuel tab? Seems like a hack of a tune honestly
Click to expand...
How would i go about fixing the airflowperrev? I would take the car back to RRE but every one has got there tax money and RRE is over a month booked..
 
boostdawd said:
I know every car is different but when I blew an intercooler coupler on my car with SD it ran fine just no boost. Your right though it's a multiple of things needing to get checked. I would retrace your steps of everything you've touched when swapping the turbo out.
Click to expand...
Thats the first thing i did was retrace. As all ive touched was the turbo, injectors, and spark plugs. I have a new coil pack on the way and im going to swap the power transitor from my gst to see if it could be that
 
Ok i might have found the problem. I pulled the wires while it was idling but cylinder 2 and 3 wites pulled it idled the same. So it seems as if its running on 2 cylinders only. So i pulled those wires and put an old spark plug in the wire and at idle it was still ignighting on cylinders 2 and 3. I pulled all the plugs and they are all gapped perfectly still..

so now im stumped. If i pull wires for 2 and 3 it idles the same but they are sparking... Compression is 150psi on all cylinders.

What am i missing now
 
If you have spark then the transistor and coil is working. Try swapping injectors from cyl 2 and 3 over to 1 and 4. Like I had said maybe the injectors got messed up when you cleaned them. Anything is possible
 
Ok well heres "another" video of how the injector/spark plug test went and also another round the block log, but the o2 sensor is finally cycling, im going to try and find some one with some at least 1200cc injectors as when the car was tuned they said i was at about 90% duty cycle on the Fic 1050s. i found some one local selling brand new RC1200s but i want your guys opinion on what injectors would be good.

I also just swapped injector 1 and 4 with 2 and 3 with the same results
I like posting videos as it gives a better representation on the problem.
Let the show begin
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Chaoticdopey said:
I also just swapped injector 1 and 4 with 2 and 3 with the same results
I like posting videos as it gives a better representation on the problem.
Let the show begin
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
Click to expand...
When u swapped the injectors does the problem jump to cylinders 1 and 4 or remains at 2 and 3. If so then the injectors are not the problem.

The spark may be present but weak causing this misfire. Try swapping coilpacks if your have an extra one.
 
boostdawd said:
When u swapped the injectors does the problem jump to cylinders 1 and 4 or remains at 2 and 3. If so then the injectors are not the problem.

The spark may be present but weak causing this misfire. Try swapping coilpacks if your have an extra one.
Click to expand...
Nope still was having problems with 2 and 3 when i swapped injectors. So i just have to wait for the new coil packs i ordered to come and see if that fixes the problem.

What sucks is I have 2 non running dsms LOL just traded my buddy my civic for his 90 gst but that one has a 20g turbo with stock injectors and a 2g maf. It likes to stumble to but idles fine.

Good thing i have a reliable daily driver
 
Airflowper rev is too high, 02 doesn't appear to be working right or is slow, fuel trims are way off, throttle position is at 5%, should be at 0%. Also i don't know what voltage your wideband uses for switching for narrowband simulation, but you might want to look into that, 1.3 seems low.
 
Like the guy above stated you have a few things to fix. Honestly man SD is already a pain even when it works right and the fact that you messed with so many "airflow related" items makes it even harder. If its feasible, save your current tune to your desktop and convert back to MAF and its last tune. That's a good place to start your diagnosis.
 
usmcjay said:
Like the guy above stated you have a few things to fix. Honestly man SD is already a pain even when it works right and the fact that you messed with so many "airflow related" items makes it even harder. If its feasible, save your current tune to your desktop and convert back to MAF and its last tune. That's a good place to start your diagnosis.
Click to expand...
I have the tune saved in my email and when it started running bad i downloaded it and put all those settings in from the dyno day with no change. So ive reverted back to the tune RRE did for me. And i dont have a Maf to put back on. I have no stock parts for this car at all as i bought it on speed density over a year ago. I do have the last tune before i swapped the engine. The question is now will it even run right being the stock motor was 7.8:1 and this engine has Ross 8.5:1 pistons with Crower 272 cams? The stock engine was also on a manual boost controller as this one is on an Ingersol Rand valve controlled by ecmlink and also the stock engine was not on e85
 
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