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Is it doing anything odd? Have you changed fuel filter within last 30k mi? Have you changed your intake filter or washed (assuming cone) and re-oiled? Checked spark gap? Changed plugs within 30k mi? Checked or just replaced spark plug wires since owning the car?

I just replaced my spark plug wires this week, it fixed my erratic idle issue and took away some lifter tick (figure timing was suffering)

How are your temps under load? Do you have a heat shield on? (hint you should)

How old is your battery? good voltage?
 
I think this has to do with your EGR delete

You said you added new cams. Could be that you might have moved your timing a tooth or two during the installatiom

The first thing i would do is check the timing marks.
 
Timing market line up .
Spark plugs (gapped to .30) wires and coil packs new when topend rebuild and fuel filter to.
Battery is 2 months old getting good volts.
Cleaned the cone only few months old. Running stock boost (waiting on few parts to show up like mbc)

Temps under load seem normal and car never had a heat sheild on it when I got.

I guess what is proper way to do egr delete.
 
Blocking the egr off shouldn't negatively impact top end performance unless the block off plate is leaking. Have you conducted a boost leak test?
That should be the first thing you do after finishing any work that involves the intake tract.
 
What are your exact symptoms besides just "sluggish"? Sputters?

So, you didn't answer my question. Did you find any boost leaks that you needed to fix?
 
If you have ecm link you can watch throttle position as you adjust it you want it to go from 0 to one the second there is any movement in the throttle cable. That is the extremely quick way to set it. If no link you must use a volt meter and probe the wires at the tps. As there is a range the ecu must see such as 0.5 volts at idle and 4.7 wide open throttle.. this is just an example as I dont have the voltages off hand but its actually very easy to test and set. 2 screws.. look up dsm tps adjustment
 
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