I dont know were to start. I had the car dynoed at RRE and then went for a nice pull. Well as i was reaching my boost max the compressor housing came off and killed the compressor blade. I towed it home and finally got the turbo back on, but cant for the life of me get it to idle or even drive down the street without tons of hesitation. Has new wires and new ngk plugs gapped at .018 because at 30lbs it was blowing out the spark gapped at .022. Car is dual mapped for E85 and 91 but is currently on E85.

Heres a video of what its doing and i will attach a log with the tune on it..

sounds like way too much fuel. e85 requires 30% more fuel to run as a starting point

mountainbike91 said:

sounds like way too much fuel. e85 requires 30% more fuel to run as a starting point

Click to expand...

Car was already tuned at road race engineering so the e85 is fine. I went for1 pass and it ran awesome and then the turbo died. I finally got the new turbo and put it on and now it wont go past 3500-4000 without breaking up

Heres a log just driving around the block

6.7 in Hg at idle, rpm is 1300s. I think your not sealed on intake tract? Could you be hitting fuel cut due to boost leaks? But I dont know anything so hopefully someone knowledgeable can help.

Also noticed a spot where you are at 47% throttle and 3000 RPM. You should be waaay over 2 psi on the omni 3 bar.

Its on speed density. 1050cc injectors with Crower 272s. I did a smoke test with my smoke machine and no leaks at the manifold

After the turbo gernaded did you clean out the intercooler? Maybe shrap metal got into the motor... Id do a compression test real quick to eliminate any mechanical problems

gsxeclipse102 said:

After the turbo gernaded did you clean out the intercooler? Maybe shrap metal got into the motor... Id do a compression test real quick to eliminate any mechanical problems

Click to expand...

I cleaned the intercooler. And compression was 150psi across the board. I put new spark plugs gapped to .018. Cleaned the injectors and put new o rings and seals

Howd you clean the injectors

Im far from an expert.
This is what i notice.
At idle You are rich around 13+ vs 14.7AFR

Your calculated fuel settings are set for 1140cc injectors
But on ethanol you "run" smaller . see link
https://www.ecmtuning.com/wiki/e85fuel

Your AirFlow/Rev is 0.60 instead of 0.25-27.
But according to the wiki this is ambiguous so long as your CombinedFt are 0%, which yours are.
https://www.ecmtuning.com/wiki/quickieafsetup

you idle seems high, have you made adjustments at your TB to lower airFlow.? Unless you intent to idle a bit high.( based on your idle settings)

Contacting your tuner may help...

I still say boost leak. You said you tested with a smoke machine, is it the fancy rigs meant for turbo cars? Most smoke machines I have seen dont produce enough pressure in the system to rule out a boost leak. Actually they dont even come close. You should be testing at 40 psi roughly. If the setup you have is for turbocharged cars than bad ass, please share any info you have. If not, consider doing a boost leak test.

I get what you are saying about it being SD so yea I suppose that changes a lot. But 2 psi at 3000 rpm - half throttle is lousy, what kind of 50 trim? I bet its losing some (most) of it's pressure, but I have no idea why its running bad.

When I read my posts I always sound like I'm trying to be a dick, sorry that's not my intent. It just comes so naturally . Just trying to help, honest.

You should start with the basics, blt, verify mechanical and base ignition timing, then make sure your fuel settings/ecu configs are right. Your profile lists different injectors than your fuel configuration suggests.

As @miliman13 said you're airflowperrev looks pretty high suggesting you need to make ve adjustments. Those points the combft is hitting zero though are just where its not being used or fuel is being cut.

The reason it's running poorly is it's never making it into closed loop. You need to get it to enter closed loop and figure out why that front o2 signal isn't cycling. It could just be the fuel settings/ve table, as it tries to cycle in a couple spots.

Are you doing the tuning yourself now? If not I'd listen to @miliman13 and contact your tuner.

Sorry to hear about your turbo. How did the compressor housing manage to come off? Probably sent a cloud of aluminum into the intake.

91talonts1 said:

Sorry to hear about your turbo. How did the compressor housing manage to come off? Probably sent a cloud of aluminum into the intake.

Click to expand...

Visualizing that will give me nightmares...

rabenne said:

Visualizing that will give me nightmares...

Click to expand...

It literally made me cringe thinking about it.

gsxeclipse102 said:

Howd you clean the injectors

Click to expand...

With water duhhhh, nah i bought a injector pulser and a fuel injector cleaning rig and shot some berrymans injector clean through while they pulsed but first i let them sit in a small bath of the berrymans but only the bottom half, then i back flushed them...

miliman13 said:

Im far from an expert.
This is what i notice.
At idle You are rich around 13+ vs 14.7AFR

Your calculated fuel settings are set for 1140cc injectors
But on ethanol you "run" smaller . see link
https://www.ecmtuning.com/wiki/e85fuel

Your AirFlow/Rev is 0.60 instead of 0.25-27.
But according to the wiki this is ambiguous so long as your CombinedFt are 0%, which yours are.
https://www.ecmtuning.com/wiki/quickieafsetup

you idle seems high, have you made adjustments at your TB to lower airFlow.? Unless you intent to idle a bit high.( based on your idle settings)

Contacting your tuner may help...

Click to expand...

My car was tuned by Sam at Road Race Engineering, i dont believe my wideband is accurate as i need to calibrate it so those numbers might be off alittle, i just bought a brand new Bosch O2 Sensor and it still is not cycling,my injectors are FIC 1050cc's, ive tried to use the idle screw with no luck, when i start to go down it just drops from 1200rpm to 300 then dies.

rabenne said:

I still say boost leak. You said you tested with a smoke machine, is it the fancy rigs meant for turbo cars? Most smoke machines I have seen dont produce enough pressure in the system to rule out a boost leak. Actually they dont even come close. You should be testing at 40 psi roughly. If the setup you have is for turbocharged cars than bad ass, please share any info you have. If not, consider doing a boost leak test.

Click to expand...

I used an old school rig to pump smoke into the intake then put a cap on the turbo in pressurized it to 35psi with no bleeding or sound at all, then i used the smoke maching to check for vacuum leaks and found none.

rabenne said:

I get what you are saying about it being SD so yea I suppose that changes a lot. But 2 psi at 3000 rpm - half throttle is lousy, what kind of 50 trim? I bet its losing some (most) of it's pressure, but I have no idea why its running bad.

When I read my posts I always sound like I'm trying to be a dick, sorry that's not my intent. It just comes so naturally . Just trying to help, honest.

Click to expand...

that was 2psi at 3k but the car was accelerating very slow and breaking up very bad, the turbo im using is a new FP Green, i have the 91 tune on 24lbs and E85 on 30lbs

91talonts1 said:

You should start with the basics, blt, verify mechanical and base ignition timing, then make sure your fuel settings/ecu configs are right. Your profile lists different injectors than your fuel configuration suggests.

As @miliman13 said you're airflowperrev looks pretty high suggesting you need to make ve adjustments. Those points the combft is hitting zero though are just where its not being used or fuel is being cut.

The reason it's running poorly is it's never making it into closed loop. You need to get it to enter closed loop and figure out why that front o2 signal isn't cycling. It could just be the fuel settings/ve table, as it tries to cycle in a couple spots.

Are you doing the tuning yourself now? If not I'd listen to @miliman13 and contact your tuner.

Sorry to hear about your turbo. How did the compressor housing manage to come off? Probably sent a cloud of aluminum into the intake.

Click to expand...

Timing was checked and said to be good at Road Race Engineering, i dont know how to really tune and ive watched all those Ecmlink videos and am still stumped, i paid $600 for the tunes and the dam thing ran great after the tune but 10 minutes later the turbo went BOOM!!! and i felt sad and ya.....

rabenne said:

Visualizing that will give me nightmares...

Click to expand...

Want a picture?

91talonts1 said:

It literally made me cringe thinking about it.

Click to expand...

Want a picture?

As the car is idling pull each spark plug cable and look/hear for extra vibration or misfire. Looks to me like it's misfiring by the sounds of the engine and the fact u have to keep your foot on the pedal.

boostdawd said:

As the car is idling pull each spark plug cable and look/hear for extra vibration or misfire. Looks to me like it's misfiring by the sounds of the engine and the fact u have to keep your foot on the pedal.

Click to expand...

I will try that but the plugs are new and so are the ngk wireset. And i found out after i made the video that the reason it wouldnt idle is because it was reading an Omni 4 bar Map when i should be reading and Omni 3 bar. So it idles now at 1300 rpm but still cant get it lower without it dieing

Did you delete the FIAV?
Theres an idle stop on the throttle body.
Its adjustable and should be adjusted to 1/16 a turn after its connected (continuity on your dvm will help)

Now id grab a timing light and double check ignition timing is at 5° tdc on the crank pully

Clean the trottle plate

You mentioned adjusting the biss
Did you ground out the approperate connections?

Vfaq.com has every thing you could need for trouble shootin high idle

Chaoticdopey said:

I used an old school rig to pump smoke into the intake then put a cap on the turbo in pressurized it to 35psi with no bleeding or sound at all, then i used the smoke maching to check for vacuum leaks and found none.

Click to expand...

How do you manage to get the intake to hold pressure with no bleeding down or air rushing sound? I thought last time I was messing with a head there isnt any crank rotation where all the intake valves are closed... do you mean no external bleeding or sound?

^one way. Is to pull the rockers out and all valves are shut for testing.
How? With the Chrysler valvetrain removel tool.

But ok still pre suffice your intake mani, and use soapy water to test.
My hypothesis is there is more than one cause.

Chaoticdopey said:

So it idles now at 1300 rpm but still cant get it lower without it dieing

Click to expand...

You seem to have alot of other problems that could be related to this. But the log I looked at had a target idle setting of 1200. When you increase the idle speed that much you will naturally have idle surge due to the significant positive slope to the timing in that range. After a certain rpm the ECU basically looses its ability to vary timing for idle control.
To correct this you need to retard the timing in those cells and reduce the curve. You also need to raise coasting FC offset to your target idle speed-900.

Have you corrected that misfire in the video?

91talonts1 said:

You seem to have alot of other problems that could be related to this. But the log I looked at had a target idle setting of 1200. When you increase the idle speed that much you will naturally have idle surge due to the significant positive slope to the timing in that range. After a certain rpm the ECU basically looses its ability to vary timing for idle control.
To correct this you need to retard the timing in those cells and reduce the curve. You also need to raise coasting FC offset to your target idle speed-900.

Have you corrected that misfire in the video?

Click to expand...

Nope misfire is still there. Shocked the shit outa myself. Coil seems good. Ive t ried lowering target idle speed to 900 with no change. Litterally nothing has vhanged since the car was tuned at road race besides a turbo going boom. I drove the car back to the shop after the tirbo blew i was right down the street. It drove fine just no boost. Now all of a sudden it wont run past 3500rpm without breaking up

@Chaoticdopey I would do a soapy boost leak test personally (smoke will not find a leak they way a foamy pile of bubbles will)....I have had so many little leaks that caused issues after the car sat overnibht. It doesn't take much of a leak to throw and SD tune way off real quick.

Speaking of SD, did you swap the same exact turbo out? Like the exact same FP Green was swapped in?

SD is very very sensitive to changes in the intake tract...if you change the piping, or the turbo, or intercooler; it can vastly affect your VE table.

kmetiuk said:

@Chaoticdopey I would do a soapy boost leak test personally (smoke will not find a leak they way a foamy pile of bubbles will)....I have had so many little leaks that caused issues after the car sat overnibht. It doesn't take much of a leak to throw and SD tune way off real quick.

Speaking of SD, did you swap the same exact turbo out? Like the exact same FP Green was swapped in?

SD is very very sensitive to changes in the intake tract...if you change the piping, or the turbo, or intercooler; it can vastly affect your VE table.

Click to expand...

I killed the fp green that was in it and sent it in to fp to rebuild it so the same turbo

If trying to lower base idle doesnt work that might be an indication that your getting too much air into the intake at idle. The BISS screw should have the ability to lower the engine rpm to the point it chokes out. If you run it in and its not bringing idle down than go through the idle surge checklist. It covers all the oddball things that cause too much air into the intake at idle, assuming no external leaks.

If you are putting 35 psi into the manifold than you basically should have found any major leaks that would cause your high idle. It is possible you are leaking internally somewhere. Do you have vac pump? can you test all your vac actuators? Brake booster is an easy one to forget about, but usually you can feel problems in the booster through the pedal.

I wish I could give you a second set of eyes. I personally would go back over anything you touched at all, I mean laid a finger on, while replacing the turbo. This could be something you are just looking past because you have seen your own car so many times.