got the intercooler mounted today. I am very happy with how this intercooler and bumper fits. the intercooler supports the top of bumper perfectly. so i only need to make nice attach points near the fenders which will be the next project. There is 3.5 inches between the I/C and cond core. so I can move the cond fan out of engine compartment. I am a little worried its going to melt being so close to turbo. plus it makes serving turbo much easier.

Love it,
Someone's selling 3 of these cars Locally
,1 in good shape and 2 parts cars

If only I could afford to mod one of these! It's the ultimate sleeper

Wow

Like really, wow. If I was next to you and lost in a race to that, I would probably cry. That is a sleeper you can romp with, with a car seat in the back just to say hey it's my family car you just lost to.

Awesome work their

94awdcoupe updated my first A/T built car


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built a 2.75 talon ratio steering rack. requires welding 9 tooth talon pinion gear in place of summit 8 tooth gear.

got my pulley mods all done.
2g alloy PS pump. plasma cut pulleys. 3 rib belt.
skunk titanium gears. lightest out. about 7oz. lighter than stock per gear.
GM alternator. stable voltage. about 40% less rotating mass.
cut a/c bracket. adjuster converted to pusher with plastic pulley. shaves 3.5lbs.
fluidampr. cause it smokes a stock dampr.



front limited slip installed. bell housing welded up. LSD swapped in without drama. pretty excited about that. I think a front LSD is far better path than welding center diff. welded center makes car drive like crap. plus it doesnt stop a front wheel from spinning like crazy. making car 2.5 wheel drive.

wont be long now. such a pretty sight

evo 1-3 jack shaft. shaves about 1.3lbs

wire harness conversion started out smoothly. thinking it was gonna be easy. in the end it took about 30 hours to get it correct. it runs now in stock form with perfect factory like a/f ratios.






tach was made t work using dual tach adapters.

amazing how many little things there were to sort through. multiple bolts left loose, overheat from leaky radiator hose. fix that then a little later overheats from sticking thermostat. starter stop working. adjust for squeaky alternator belt three times. etc. etc. I changed the axles out to some evo 1 spares I had with no play in them. that reduced the whine to half what it was. so pretty sure I will need to drop trans to correct. car is driving really nice other than the whine. love the new steering. dont know what mitsu was thinking with that 3.19 ratio. did my first mod today. temporary mod anyway. just wanted to get rid of cat. so I spent two hours building this crappy downpipe. but it works great. car is still deftly quiet. didnt make it any louder really. made it a lot more peppy. clearly needs more fuel. plugs were brown whem I checked them first. now they are white. next three things: wideband, fuel pump rewire, and tach.


with engine and in and running very good time to spend some time on the fun stuff. installed five gauges. PLX wideband, and DEFI oil pressure, boost, EGT, and water temp.

My new turbo kit in the works. I picked up a t25 exhaust housing off ebay a few months ago for pretty cheap. less than a 100. the more I looked at it the more I liked how easy it would be to make the internally gated housing work. With my tig welder not working so great I was really just not in the mood to finish up the other turbo setup which requires some pretty technical welding to finish. so I switched gears to this internal gate setup. some initial pics. time to remove turbo for further fitments.

---------- Post added 01-03-2017 at 15:50 ----------

goals were save as much weight as possible. quiet as possible. reliable and easy to service. 400whp through A/T.

stock turbo with complete exhaust 99lbs
6758 with twin muffler side exit 60lbs

stock 1.75 with cat, two mufflers, one resonator and lots of bends
side exit 2.7 is just as quiet as the restrictive stocker. amazing

power. yet to be determined

Love this build

man thst things going to be fun!!

94awdcoupe updated my first A/T built car


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doing in chassis drop in build.
manley 9/1
nascar DLC pins 173 wall
manley lightweight I beams
rings gapped to .023
low mileage owner ported head with evo 8 everything
Tomei 260 poncams
ARP studs with felpro gasket
owner ported intake (evo 1)

It looks like from your pictures here that you got it up and running and now you are doing major upgrades on the engine? What is the horsepower goal?
Nice side exit exhaust! How does it sounds now compared to stock exhaust?
I read you have adapted a t25 turbine housing onto a stock manifold, what turbo is that bolted up to the t25 housing?
Your tach adapter - I wonder if you could show me how you figured that one out - like a wiring diagram if you wouldn't mind? I would like to get something better than the dakotadigital box i have. It works good, but gets jittery every ten seconds for a split second and then its fine.
Nice progress!

yes. first goal was to get it running good stock. the engine idled perfect and had no signs of blowby. thought it would be a good engine to do drop in pistons. very pleased with bore condition. havent run manley pistons before so i have my fingers crossed. havent started it back up yet. I reached a stopping point when i found the intake cam was not drilled for the sensor.

The turbo is an EFR 6758. I found dyno graphs on subaru cars were the turbo was compared to 18g and 20g turbos. It spools faster and makes more power. i found several mildly modded 2.0 ecotech cars getting 460-470whp at 26-27psi. full boost at 3500 rpm. seemed like perfect for my 400whp goals for the car. that is about 450whp 5 speed. the turbine housing is indeed t25 inlet. very happy how it mounted. was time consuming but I think it was worth it.

the side exit exhaust works well . its very quiet during cruise. maybe only 10% louder than a stock exhaust. very nice sounding full throttle. it has one problem. between 3000-3500 rpm it resonates interior pretty bad. I have been researching helmholz resonators that I am confident will solve the problem. I temporarily solved the issue with a ricer side pipe. and although I actually really like the pipe it makes the car a cop magnet I am afraid.

the tach adapters are factory mitsubishi. they come on 90 cars. our distributer engine from summit gives 4 pulses per revolution for tach. the 4g63 tach signal from one coil is 2 pulses per revolution. thats why 2 were used. one on each coil. tach works as it should. the wiring is quite simple. power comes from power wire to coils. that can be Y connected to tach adapters. thats the red wire. the yellow wire is signal in from coil. so you need two separate yellow connects. one per coil to each adapter. the signal out wire is the white wires. they will Y together and feed the tach. the tach should get this signal only. so cut the original wire that goes to ecu.

I purchased a white one this summer for the wife and kids for 350$ but it is a fwd auto 2.4L 16v. Overdrive was shot, it didnt start due to bad ecu. Fixed it up with a new ecu, installed a blue interior from a parts car, and did the end clutch and shift kit from IPT. Looks just like yours, I wish it was AWD.
Thanks for the wiring tips for the tach! Ill let you know if it works for me.
Are you using the W5A32 trans? I am very interested to see what abuse it will take and how the LSD will help.
I love the turbo to manifold mount setup, 6 stud instead of 4!
It will be interesting! Keep the pictures coming!

my car is auto. I am using the RVR trans from a turbo model. its a jdm version W4A33 . auto was what i wanted.

spent far too much time customizing evo 1 intake. it was already ported and tested to work well on the evo 1. I ported a second one and polished the plenumn for that car. so I didnt want to polish another one so I came up with this idea. it was a little less time than a polish job. its unique for sure.

I am a little bit unfamiliar with the evo 1 intake. Is that a big port(1g head) or small port(2g head)? Is it similar to the 2g or evo3 intake?

EGLTAWLN said:

I am a little bit unfamiliar with the evo 1 intake. Is that a big port(1g head) or small port(2g head)? Is it similar to the 2g or evo3 intake?

Click to expand...

It's the same Evo 1/3 are all the same sized, 60mm TB opening, 2G sized ports, that's why it's a good 2G upgrade

The Evo IM looks pretty cool!

How did you hone the cylinders with the motor in the car?

Really cool.

GST with PSI said:

The Evo IM looks pretty cool!

How did you hone the cylinders with the motor in the car?

Click to expand...

In or out of car its better to not hone cylinders if they are in good shape. I have done many stock bore builds. I found I get far better ring seal by not honing.

started engine up today.. sounds perfect. so far what i can say is these cams are in a league of their own as far as idle quality. these are bigger cams than HKS 272 which i am not a fan of. never like the choppy idle. These PON cams are to die for if you want a smooth idle. they pull 16in vacuum at very low idle 700rpm. same as i was getting on the stock A/T cams. no kidding the idle is like stock.

I thought you built a 2.2 for this thing?