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Clutch late engagement still dragging...

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DSMNOB

Probationary Member
5
1
Jul 7, 2016
Meridian, Idaho
I have searched and found some similar threads BUT it seems that I am having a special issue...

First of all, I have an ACT 2600 with a BRAND NEW Street Sprung Disc, BRAND NEW pivot ball, BRAND NEW clutch fork, and BRAND NEW OEM Mitsubishi TOB.

I followed Jack's Transmission video. I did the clutch drag test and it was dragging.. No problem I'll just adjust it. Well, i am at the end of my threads and my clutch is still dragging AND when I fully press (to the floor) the clutch pedal in it makes a grinding noise (kinda sounds like the clutch is disengaging and the face of the pressure plate is rubbing the transmission bell housing...) The clutch engages VERY late on the pedal. It is almost fully depressed before my clutch engages...

So I need the clutch to engage closer to the floor BUT I have clutch drag so I need the master cylinder rod at the end of its threads...

Edit: Also, I have a 6 bolt with a 2g transmission if that helps in your diagnoses.

Any advice would be appreciated.
 
Well bleed clutch system???
 
Where is your clutch fork in the window? Center? Closer to driver or passenger? Should be closer to the drivers side. Also what condition is your slave and master?
 
have you verified your clutch master cylinder is not leaking? I had issues with the one my car came with which was not OEM. I bought OEM one from extreme psi and after it was installed and bleed ive had no further problems.
 
No... I bled the clutch like mad. It helped a little but I also found out some more info that may help the diagnosis.
When the car is cold the engagement is at the floor... When it is warm it is high but not terrible... When I let it sit idling it is at the highest point of engagement on the pedal.

Thoughts?
 
I would've said the same thing except I only started having this issue when I upgraded my clutch...
The fluid is brand new. Iiterally went through a whole bottle bleeding it.
 
No offense but you kind of ignored a few posts that were important. Take a picture of your clutch fork in your bell housing and post it, inform the step height of your flywheel, and check the condition of your lines, master, and slave cylinder. I have had slaves that will let air in but not fluid out. It is possible.
 
The noise that you are hearing when pushing the clutch concerns me however. I am leaning toward either a faulty or improperly installed throw out bearing. Their is always a possibility of crankwalk as well. Check your crank for play just to be sure.
 
It's possible for any motor to walk & not only manuals. Autos can walk too.
 
I agree with Jakk220, look over at some of the other suggestions and see if you can spot anything wrong. Personally, and I recently went through a lot of clutch issues, try to take out the slave cylinder and make sure there is nothing stuck in between the rod and piston (in my case someone had jammed a freaking nut in there!). Also push it slightly inward with your finger and see if it's binding inside the bore. Make sure its bleed screw does not leak when tight. The system could be losing pressure or leaking from somewhere, causing incomplete clutch disengagement and hence dragging. I have a hunch it's leaking.
 
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