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2G "Honestly I have no clue what I even have" a cry for help

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B00stAddictedGsx

Proven Member
80
13
Oct 10, 2016
bethlehem, Pennsylvania
Hello everyone! I come to you from my living room window looking out at my new (to me) 97 2g with a rocket bunny kit on it. I'm new to these cars and worse I pretty much know nothing about it. If you're wondering why I bought it. The answer would be that it was purchased at a steal and the seller was a nice guy as well as really helpful.

So before I start let me state that I have spent the last 3 weeks lurking around this website reading all the "newbie stuff" so I won't be asking what's the first mod I should do without first doing proper maintenance.

ok now that that's out of the way here's what I know has been done already. The eclipse is a 97 with 111k on it the timing, and clutch (possibly stage 2?) was done not too long ago. It has a 16g turbo, GReddy intercooler as well as BOV. The manual boost controller is currently set at 20 lbs and the turbo back exhaust sounds great. The suspension has KYB AGX's and its sitting on 20" bbs rims that are INSANELY wide. (I scrape the front bumper fkn everywhere) It has an apex control (that I have not a clue how to mess with) and boost, oil pressure, and exhaust temp gauges that do not work. Slotted rotors and possibly ceramics.

Now on to the issues I'm having:
The car pulls to the left a bit hard (we suspect warped rotors, in need of an alignment, a frozen caliper or tires rubbing)

(the tires are stretched I guess for clearance reasons?)

The car Scrapes EVERYWHERE! I SCRAPE IN PARKING LOTS THIS MUST END!

When on the highway the apex control starts beeping the graph is all the way peaked and the car lugs under boost I don't know how to describe it but if i had to take a guess maybe compressor surge?...
Idk but the boost is absolutely insane and it feels like the car is just being pushed far too hard.

I think I need to back off the boost and get tein street basis coilovers

If anyone is willing to help you'd be helping me out soooo much and possibly saving another 2g from a sad end.

Thank you,

Chris


Here are some photos of what I'm working with.
I can tell it's a great car that was worked on with love and just needs a little more attention.

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More photos
 

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I got one of these:

Injen Technology X-1018-BB 4.5" AMSOIL Ea Nano-Fiber Black and Blue Air Filter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001NF2VYY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_KJUayb6234TM8

If you have Prime you get free two day shipping too. Great price and fantastic filtering. And it doesn't need oil, all you have to do is blow it out with an air compressor.

You might need an adapter too, depending on the size filter you get.

This is the adapter I purchased:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/371199072727

Like $65 for a phenomenal filtering setup.
Are you sure this plate would fit? I checked and it said it wasn't compatible.

Also can I get a recommendation on a parking brake hardware kit?

I also have a silver braided wire the runs from the engine bay (in beside the steering column boot) to the underside of the dash wired into a harness with different knobs for colors. I have not a clue what this does. Any ideas what this could be and could it be why my boost and oil gauge don't work? I think it isn't plugged into anything...
 

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Last edited:
Looks like an EGT probe to me. Must have had one of those gauges as some point. Is there a plug on your exhaust manifold anywhere where it was drilled and tapped for that sender?
 
Looks like an EGT probe to me. Must have had one of those gauges as some point. Is there a plug on your exhaust manifold anywhere where it was drilled and tapped for that sender?

I can't find one and I looked all over. Should I look in a common place for it? Also if the boost gauge doesn't have a port for a vacuum tube does that mean its fake? Are there Gauges that get the required info from wires only? IF so why does it stay locked on max boost and have a warning light the entire time the car is on?
 
Not gonna lie, I'm one of those people who thinks doing any cosmetic mods that make the car not look stock is normally terrible but, those fender flares look effin awesome.
 
I can't find one and I looked all over. Should I look in a common place for it? Also if the boost gauge doesn't have a port for a vacuum tube does that mean its fake? Are there Gauges that get the required info from wires only? IF so why does it stay locked on max boost and have a warning light the entire time the car is on?

The EGT probe should screw into the exhaust manifold before the turbo. People generally put it on cyl 1, but it could be on a different runner.

For the boost gauge, this one looks to be electrical. There should be a box located elsewhere that has a vacuum port that connects to the intake manifold or other boost source. This then relays the signal to the gauge. This one may not be plugged in and so its pegged to max boost by default.
 
So today the car has developed an issue where it turns off if I don't shift before 3500rpms...I belive my fuel cut issue is worsening....I've turned the boost down but am still experiencing that along with an inconsistent idle....I was told a larger fuel pump can help with this. Is this true?
 
So today the car has developed an issue where it turns off if I don't shift before 3500rpms...I belive my fuel cut issue is worsening....I've turned the boost down but am still experiencing that along with an inconsistent idle....I was told a larger fuel pump can help with this. Is this true?
I'd try and figure out what fuel mods the car currently has, because it seems incomplete. If you can take a picture of the injectors, we can help ID what kind they are. Do you see any kind of adjustable fuel pressure regulator that would be on the outlet of the fuel rail? There was talk of a SAFC, but I don't think I ever read a confirmation.

If there isn't too much done, it might be worth trying to get it closer to stock so it runs better while you're figuring things out.
 
It does have an SAFC, and I'm trying to read up on the whole recirculation of the bov thing because I don't really understand what exactly I'm supposed to do. I get the concept but the hose I'm supposed to move eludes me. If you can point it out and where it's supposed to go I'd greatly appreciate it.
 
It does have an SAFC, and I'm trying to read up on the whole recirculation of the bov thing because I don't really understand what exactly I'm supposed to do. I get the concept but the hose I'm supposed to move eludes me. If you can point it out and where it's supposed to go I'd greatly appreciate it.

I've included a thumbnail showing what you want to connect. Where the BOV vents boosted air needs to be sent back before the turbo but after the MAF sensor because it has already been metered by the ECU. You should be able to find some hose at an auto parts or home improvement store. I think some people use corrugated pool hose.
 

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I'd try and figure out what fuel mods the car currently has, because it seems incomplete. If you can take a picture of the injectors, we can help ID what kind they are. Do you see any kind of adjustable fuel pressure regulator that would be on the outlet of the fuel rail? There was talk of a SAFC, but I don't think I ever read a confirmation.

If there isn't too much done, it might be worth trying to get it closer to stock so it runs better while you're figuring things out.
I'll get on a picture of the injectors today.
I've included a thumbnail showing what you want to connect. Where the BOV vents boosted air needs to be sent back before the turbo but after the MAF sensor because it has already been metered by the ECU. You should be able to find some hose at an auto parts or home improvement store. I think some people use corrugated pool hose.
Wow thanks so much! I'll start trying to find a hose that matches.
 
1) You don't really need that egt probe (silver wire going to inside car). You can pull that for now

2) electronic boost gauge should be hooked up. look up instructions for that brand gauge and hook it on up
 
I've tried googling and searching everywhere and I can't find anything on the gauges plus I'm also trying to find out why my oil temp doesn't work in addition to that some things on the apexi tuner dont work like air fuel raitio....
 
All I know is it has kyb agx's suspension wise... I hope to know more when I jack it up tomorrow. as for the boost I lowered it 2 turns and it feels way better but that's not percise as I have no idea what the actual values are..
With boost controllers if you turn it all the way down you will then run wastegate pressure. It's good you moved the boost controller where it needs to be but it sounds like you may want to turn it down before something blows. Keep us posted that's a beautiful car
 
With boost controllers if you turn it all the way down you will then run wastegate pressure. It's good you moved the boost controller where it needs to be but it sounds like you may want to turn it down before something blows. Keep us posted that's a beautiful car
So do I need to lower my wastegate pressure? And I can't get the tip of the bov off to get a hose connected so I'm going to have to figure that out now....
 
shouldnt need to lower your wastegate pressure, just back your boost controller off completely so you are only running wastegate pressure, at least until you can accurately monitor and tune for it.
 
Anyone have some low profile tires that fit 20s? Police officer pulled me over and gave me shit today for having stretched tires.(it's not even like it's a crazy stretch it's modest and I'm not even cambered...) I tried explaining that I just got the car and im trying to adress the issues but I need time. So now I have 10 days (on a college student budget -.- so that was useless) to come up with low profile tires and pass inspection..... safe to say I'm screwed.
 
Has anyone had issues getting a computer to stop reading as if it was just reset? I just put 160 miles on the car and the emissons test keeps saying that it's not ready for testing. I have no idea what to do and if this isn't fixed by tomorrow I'll be getting citations
 
ECMlink would do it for you. it probably is lacking the sensors it needs or it has not seen the correct conditions to test.
 
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