The Top DSM Community on the Web

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. Log in to remove most ads.

Please Support RTM Racing
Please Support STM Tuned

What do the experts think

This site may earn a commission from merchant
affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Kringle

Proven Member
113
5
Sep 29, 2015
Goldsboro, North_Carolina
Gentlemen and Ladies that have a bit of tuning experience i would like your opinion or guidence on something. So i bought a 1g about 3 months back and have been working on getting the car on the road. Anyway, the guy i bought it from said it was his friends car and he was helping him tune it when the guy lost interest in the car. I don't know a lot about tuning but i do know that if the guy was tuning it he was gonna have a hell of a time after all the problems i fixed. So heres my thing, should I:

A) Return the ECU to a stock tune and start over with tuning (got a small handle on it and am trying to learn more about it)
B) Continue where the guy left off since all the "extras" are already in ECM live

Your thoughts would be greatly appreciated, Thank You
 
Yeah, you're better to start over and do it yourself. I did the same thing with my car and even though I found a lot of stuff was done correctly, I had to learn how to do it and therefore understood the car better.
 
alright ill start from scratch, that was what i was leaning towards anyway. ill just look back at the saved file for the inputs i need. thanks
 
I really wish people would stop thinking their timing/afr tables we're worth gold, I understand the guys that get it professionally tuned to a degree but at the same time 90% of us aren't going to be able to see major changes or tweaks and are just looking for a basic idea of what a properly tuned setup SHOULD look like, plus most DSMers nowadays aren't going to drop 600 on ecmlink then another 500 for a tune when the software is right in front of them.

Share guys, we're a community. LOL

That being said (and I now realize it has nothing to do with your post :ohdamn:) Don't be afraid to post logs and ask questions, tag me in it if you have to, I'm not an expert tuner but I've been running the car at 28psi for almost a year and nothing's blown up yet.
 
I really wish people would stop thinking their timing/afr tables we're worth gold, I understand the guys that get it professionally tuned to a degree but at the same time 90% of us aren't going to be able to see major changes or tweaks and are just looking for a basic idea of what a properly tuned setup SHOULD look like, plus most DSMers nowadays aren't going to drop 600 on ecmlink then another 500 for a tune when the software is right in front of them.

Share guys, we're a community. LOL

That being said (and I now realize it has nothing to do with your post :ohdamn:) Don't be afraid to post logs and ask questions, tag me in it if you have to, I'm not an expert tuner but I've been running the car at 28psi for almost a year and nothing's blown up yet.
Kind of a random rant there ^^. I do get a laugh when I hear people say "he (some guy) may not want to share his setup" blah blah. As if anyone truly gives a shit what some low 10 second car is running.
 
It's been building for like 6 months, when I swapped back to my 68hta I was looking for an idea of what other people were running for base maps and timing and NOBODY wanted to share what their pump gas setup was, so I got some great advice from GST with PSI and talked with Gofer as well and have a pretty fair idea of what I'm doing now, but when you're first starting out you want to have something to compare your setup to, and it was very frustrating trying to get any information. Alright I'm done thread jacking. LOL sorry Kringle.
 
It's been building for like 6 months, when I swapped back to my 68hta I was looking for an idea of what other people were running for base maps and timing and NOBODY wanted to share what their pump gas setup was, so I got some great advice from GST with PSI and talked with Gofer as well and have a pretty fair idea of what I'm doing now, but when you're first starting out you want to have something to compare your setup to, and it was very frustrating trying to get any information. Alright I'm done thread jacking. LOL sorry Kringle.
all good man jack away. haha. well i just downloaded and copied over what i think are the stock files and upgrade my firmware. about to adjust my BISS screw to see if it will help the car idle a bit better (kind of off topic). right now i have to keep hitting the gas just to keep it running. i get that the car is cold and with the FIAV closed off it will idle rough but it should idle a little right?
 
Make sure "ground timing" and "ground diganostics pin" are unchecked in ECMlink, you'll be chasing issues for a while if you don't
wait so i don't have to physically ground them? i can do it via link?

EDIT: just found those boxes. thats a cool feature. showing my inexperience with tuning here, so be nice fellas (please)...LOL
 
ok so i found out why it wouldn't idle. as i was looking for my screw driver i saw the stupid freeze plug staring me in the face. replaced the pug and idle like it should (kind of)...LOL. here is the file though. my fuel trims are a bit off but i should be able to take care of it i think.
 

Attachments

  • log.2016.10.27-02.elg
    197.8 KB · Views: 41
Why is your fuel table so messed up? I'd zero that out first. There are no adjustments made to your MAFcomp table either.

Zero out your fuel tab, and do another idle log, You're idling about 100rpm higher then what your trying to AIM for and the ISC position remains at zero, was this log taken before you found the biss screw?
 
ok so i found out why it wouldn't idle. as i was looking for my screw driver i saw the stupid freeze plug staring me in the face. replaced the pug and idle like it should (kind of)...LOL. here is the file though. my fuel trims are a bit off but i should be able to take care of it i think.
Freeze plug? Clarify
 
Why is your fuel table so messed up? I'd zero that out first. There are no adjustments made to your MAFcomp table either.

Zero out your fuel tab, and do another idle log, You're idling about 100rpm higher then what your trying to AIM for and the ISC position remains at zero, was this log taken before you found the biss screw?
that was after i put the freeze plug back in, at the cars current state. Though that i saved all the "Stock" parameters to the edu, guess the fuel never made it there. That was what the previous owner did. I set the BISS screw to 2 turns out and it seemed ok there. After taking that log i adjusted my MAFcomp, injector dead times, and global.

ill zero out the fuel table though. i didn't really mess with it since i wasn't getting in the 2000 rpm range.
 

Attachments

  • log.2016.10.27-04.elg
    80.1 KB · Views: 35
You need to get your BISS adjusted properly so that your ISC is around 30 at idle that should be your first goal. try this http://www.vfaq.com/index-main.html
under intake it will have a walkthrough of how to adjust it, instead of physically grounding things you can ground them through ECMlink

Ok that makes sense ill go give it shot seems simple enough. Didn't realize that the ISC and BISS worked together. I get how to adjust the BISS, but do i just adjust it out till the ISC reads 30 then? Guess the car wasn't as close as i thought. haha

EDIT: I noticed the ISC was 0 while it was idling but i figured it was cause it went bad, which seemed odd cause it Ohm'ed out fine
 
ok well this is where she sits as of now. Im pretty sure that another vacuum leak has popped up cause the car won't idle below 1300 average and hunts quite a bit. The ISC is currently sitting at 14-15. Honestly thank you so much for the help. I did notice that while i was messing with the BISS it started to lean out so i had to adjust the global fuel to richen things up. Might not be the right way to do things but it seemed to work. The only way i could get it to hunt around 900 rpm it sounds like its going to die, and i sins catch what the ISC was at because it just seemed to low. Ill mess around with it more tomorrow.
 

Attachments

  • log.2016.10.27-07.elg
    125.6 KB · Views: 42
Try not grounding the timing connector (sometimes my car will idle with it grounded.. sometimes it won't, It says your supposed to but I don't have good luck with it) and screwing the Biss gently all the way in. then back it out 2 full rotations, see where that lands you with your ISC value, you have to understand that right now getting your ISC to 30 and figuring out why your not AT 30 is very important because it's the basis for the rest of the idle tune.
 
Try not grounding the timing connector (sometimes my car will idle with it grounded.. sometimes it won't, It says your supposed to but I don't have good luck with it) and screwing the Biss gently all the way in. then back it out 2 full rotations, see where that lands you with your ISC value, you have to understand that right now getting your ISC to 30 and figuring out why your not AT 30 is very important because it's the basis for the rest of the idle tune.

Sounds like a plan. I was able to get it to 30 but when I did my throttle was at 1% and idle was at 1750. I'm gonna go over the car and check for boost leaks again, then readjust the TPS and throttle stop switch. Then test the ISC again before continueing. Basically start again to make sure I didn't miss anything. And try tuning it again. I also have a spare ISC motor as well that I will test.

Will get back to you a bit later.
 
Last edited:
If you said your ISC Ohm'd out then you should be in good shape, definetely make sure your TPS voltage is where it needs to be (sorry I figured that was a given) should be .63volts closed (idle) and 5.00 volts for WOT. you can log the value TPS voltage and do it right from the laptop with the car off, key on.
 
If you said your ISC Ohm'd out then you should be in good shape, definetely make sure your TPS voltage is where it needs to be (sorry I figured that was a given) should be .63volts closed (idle) and 5.00 volts for WOT. you can log the value TPS voltage and do it right from the laptop with the car off, key on.

yeah i saw where the ISC can Ohm out correctly but the motor be bad. as far as the TPS goes it was .9v to 5v off the car but on the lap top it was reading .61v closed. ill take a look at that as well
 
  • Your idle switch isn't working. It reads a constant "0". Without a working idle switch, the ECU will not try to adjust idle speed with ISCPosition or timing. To adjust the idle switch, read this thread:
http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/id...op-switch-cause-high-idle-how-to-test.346268/

With ECMLink, DO NOT ground the timing and/or diagnostic pins when trying to adjust the ISCPosition with the BISS screw. Keep in mind that the ISCPosition takes some time to change, so give it a few minutes after you adjust the BISS.

Your high idle is caused by too much air entering the engine. This extra air is passing through the MAF (as evidenced by your 0.9 lb/min Airflow...should be 0.5 lb/min). I would not suspect a vacuum leak. This could be caused by a misadjusted idle switch. The idle switch is also the throttle stop on the 1G throttle body.

If you get your idle switch working without reducing your idle speed, you will get idle surge.

Jim
 
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Innovation Products Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications MyMitsubishiStore.com RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Vendor Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top