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702

Probationary Member
15
0
Oct 20, 2016
Las Vegas, Nevada
Hey guys,

Just got a 97 Eclipse Spyder GST. Picked it up knowing it will need work. It had recently passed smog so I was already going to plan on buying it but when I test drove it and felt boost for the first time it was all over.

After getting it home and running over the car checking the fluid and the connections etc (I'm no mechanic) I took it for an hour drive to see if any problems I could not spot would present themselves. Everything ran good and the boost is crazy. Awhile ago I had got a cheap honda civic 96 with the single cam and planned on building that up but I could never find an engine to swap (don't even know if I could do a swap by myself anyways). So this is what mainly drove me to purchase this when I seen it for sale already had a turbo.

My concerns:

Radiator Hose Swelling

While I drove it for about an hour and parked it at home the top radiator hose was swelling. Lot's of the hoses on the car are kinda old no cracks so is the radiator hose swelling because the hoses are old or could there be a bigger problem? Something clogging creating back pressure? A stuck thermostat etc? The swelling is not huge you can just tell its slightly larger then when cold.

Exhaust leak at manifold (Picture included)
This is my biggest problem I can see and I'm going to assume this is the cause of the two problems below, engine cuts out at 4500rpm - 5200rpm depending on gear during boost and running super rich.
So the exhaust leak you can feel coming out of the exhaust manifold gasket you can also see the black stain on the head this would not be as big as problem if the bolt was not broke off in the head right were the exhaust leak is coming out of.
So a quick question do you guys think this could be the issue of the next two problems? Also any advice on getting that broken bolt out? I'm hoping it is sticking out far enough it looks like it may have half an inch outside the head but its hard to tell with the manifold on.

Running really rich
The car is running really rich going to fix exhaust leak see if it solves this issue.

Engine cuts off at 4500rpm - 5200rpm

Engine just cuts off at 4500-rpm to 5200rpm during high boost I'm thinking because the exhaust leak its running to rich and getting to much fuel need to get that fixed and see if this fixes the issue.

----------------------------------------------------------------
Small list of things I will be fixing after the big stuff:
- Brake light stays on when emergency brake is down (going to check reservoir and the metal strip on the bottom of e brake in car)
- Driver side door does not open from out side
- Passenger side window does not roll down
- BOV is not recycling back into intake (the bov sounds awesome tho!)
- Change all fluids, radiator flush, oil change, tranny fluid change, check clutch & brake
- Oil temperature gauge on OEM dash not working

About the car:
Overall the car is mainly stock with some goodies that I know about.
- Evo 16g Turbo (I think its a real one not ebay, I believe the ebay's have the metal flat plaque instead of TD05)
- mechanical boost gauge that is reading wrong
- front coil over lowering (can hear them making noise on choppy roads)
- rims are the chrome and black fake three piece (think they are called katana's) I see every eclipse with them
- Aluminum radiator
And as far as I know that is really it.

So this is my first turbo car, I'm not a mechanic and I don't know anything about dsms. I'm glad to see a forum thats pretty active it takes a bit of the anxiety away knowing I have plenty of resources to search through and some people thats willing to help out a complete newb. If anyone is in the vegas area please let me know I need some dsm friends!

I will update this weekend and let you guys know how the exhaust leak goes I'm hoping I don't have to buy a new head. I'm sure I missed some things but if anyone has any comments advice or just want to say whats up please do so and thanks all!
 

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Welcome to the site and to the dsm world. First thing I would recommend is to do a BLT (boost leak test) and also recirculate that BOV. If you are not sure when the timing belt was done last I would replace that too.
for the turbo
http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/td05h-turbo-part-numbers-14b-16g.313105/
The numbers will be on the compressor housing (the "shiney part") where the intake tube hooks up.
 
Welcome to the site and to the dsm world. First thing I would recommend is to do a BLT (boost leak test) and also recirculate that BOV. If you are not sure when the timing belt was done last I would replace that too.
for the turbo
http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/td05h-turbo-part-numbers-14b-16g.313105/
The numbers will be on the compressor housing (the "shiney part") where the intake tube hooks up.

Thanks for the welcome, also the info on the turbo was great appreciate that! I will do a BLT once the fiasco with the broken bolts in the head is over and everything all maintenance is done.

Little update took off the exhaust manifold today when I got home from work, looks like there are two studs gone. One for sure is broken off inside about a half inch in and the other is hard to tell but the threads are gone for sure.

I'm about to attempt to drill these out tomorrow I have been watching tons of videos on how to extract a bolt and then re thread with a tap and die but I've never done it before, any advice? I guess the worse that could happen is I have to buy a new head which I'm most likely going to anyways since lots of the valve cover bolts are stripped and it looks like its held on with mostly silicone.

I also got a new exhaust manifold and turbo gaskets from auto zone, hopefully they will last and are good looks like what was on there before at least.

One major question should I get the Exhaust manifold studs at auto zone or should I order them online?

Edit: BTW I have worked on a decent variety of cars nothing major the norm like brakes, rotors, thermostat lights etc etc... WHY IS THE ECLIPSE SO EASY TO WORK ON! What a damn concept!
 

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I'm about to attempt to drill these out tomorrow I have been watching tons of videos on how to extract a bolt and then re thread with a tap and die but I've never done it before, any advice? I guess the worse that could happen is I have to buy a new head which I'm most likely going to anyways since lots of the valve cover bolts are stripped and it looks like its held on with mostly silicone.
Just be careful with the tap and die as the middle bottom stud actually runs through an oil galley so metal shavings would not be good there. The valve cover bolts tq spec is only 3 ft/lbs so it's common for people to over torque which could possible also crack the valve cover itself. When re-tapping just make sure you are straight and true and if it is too stripped you may need to heli-coil the holes to still be able to use factory stud specs. I have never needed to replace any studs so no idea if autozone is good or not. I would assume, due to the heat abuse, that the factory studs are an 8 grade or higher but can't confirm that.
 
Just be careful with the tap and die as the middle bottom stud actually runs through an oil galley so metal shavings would not be good there. The valve cover bolts tq spec is only 3 ft/lbs so it's common for people to over torque which could possible also crack the valve cover itself. When re-tapping just make sure you are straight and true and if it is too stripped you may need to heli-coil the holes to still be able to use factory stud specs. I have never needed to replace any studs so no idea if autozone is good or not. I would assume, due to the heat abuse, that the factory studs are an 8 grade or higher but can't confirm that.

Thanks for the help!

Here is an update:

Wen't to the local pic-a-part (junkyard) since it showed they had a few eclipse 95-2000, all of them did not have anywhere near the same engine mostly single cams and v6's. But I did see one Mitsubishi I think it may have been a Lancer? I'm not 100% sure but that looks about the closest to it. Anyways my bolt I brought went right onto the stud in there so I thought it has to be better then any universal stud I can only buy at an auto parts store.

I took three studs off just in case brought them home. I lucked out on the bottom stud it came out pretty easy while I was trying to scrape the threads clean! So I threw one stud from the junkyard in and it fit perfect.

The next one took about 15-30 minutes of drilling and using different bits until I felt I had enough room to tap the extractor in to get enough grip and it worked! I screwed another junkyard stud in and now my biggest worries are over. Not to bad for an I.T. guy that does not do much more then oil changes and brakes.

I added some pictures, I'm pretty happy right now everything has been going smooth with this car. I will be replacing some gaskets and doing a radiator/oil change and well see what other little things she may need for a bit of easy daily driving.
 

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Except that you have used studs. They break under thousands of heat cycles. Buy new oem.

I was worried about the same thing but this is a temp fix and I did not want to buy universal ones at autozone then have to re thread to a bigger size. I have the ones in the link below on order and next weekend I will be painting the valve cover + exhaust manifold I will put those in. I did not go for stainless steal because people are saying don't use them. These come with copper bolts which looks like everyone is saying to use those but change them after you take them off they are cheap like $6.00 so I got a spare set.

Exhaust Manifold Studs:
http://www.streettunedmotorsports.com/parts/stm_exhaust_manifold_stud_nut_kit_dsm_evo.htm

Going to go change all the gaskets now and do an oil/radiator change see if I can drive it back and forth to work this should tell me what else I will need to be doing once I jack it back up next weekend.

This is my first "fast" car so I'm really eager to drive it again (don't plan on hot rodding it much) I still need to change an engine mount on the tranny side. I'm really just testing the waters to see if the head and block is worth putting money into or should I buy a refurbished block+head and built that to last.
 
If you ever buy non oem studs you wouldn't buy "universal" studs and rethread. Parts stores carry the correct thread also.
If youre dead set on doing the work twice go for it. I would've just left it until you gotthe new studs.
 
If you ever buy non oem studs you wouldn't buy "universal" studs and rethread. Parts stores carry the correct thread also.
If youre dead set on doing the work twice go for it. I would've just left it until you gotthe new studs.

I tried autozone, orielys, pepboys and napa none had the exhaust manifold studs only universal kits :(.
I hear you tho pauley, getting off the manifold and disconnecting the turbo flange was not hard at all, but getting it back on the turbo flange when the threads are cross threaded as hell was a bit tough I was stressing not to strip it out. Not to mention I did not think about the fact I will need to buy another exhaust gasket in a week haha not to sure if its a good idea to re use the same one even tho its only been a week?

I'm just excited and eager to drive the car, the boost and turbo sounds are addicting it's like I'm a teenage girl in high school or something not to mention this is my first actual "quick" car.

But here is quick update:

Changed the front motor mount got a new one old one was toast. Did an oil/tranny change, flushed the radiator got some high temp green coolant generic autozone brand. Changed the turbo oil/ turbo oil to oil pan gaskets and for some reason the turbo to oil pan gasket still leaks will have to check that out later.

Car is still cutting out 4k rpm - 5k rpm depending on the gear under intense boost. (The evo 16g to much boost for a stock setup I think it will need its upgrades like everyone is saying)

Valve cover leaks a bit on the top and from the side. Those are the two major issues I'm going to be doing a BLT, and redoing the valve cover and bolts since most are stripped and the thing is held on with silicon and a old gasket it looks like.

Over all I'm in love with this car, I would have never thought I would be replacing headbolt studs and a motor mount with almost no effort. I really feel the engineers did an awesome job amazing how easy it is to work on.

Just wanted to thank everyone for taking the time to check out the thread and give some help and advice will be back soon with updates. Next weekend looks like just as much work is planned for it if not more.
 
The turbo to oilpan flange has crush washers under the mounting bolt heads. I would bet those are bad or missing.
 
Welcome! You definitely seem to have ambition, you just need a little knowledge. It'll take you far.

First ofd, OEM maintenance items and hardware/gaskets should always be your #1 choice for replacing stock parts. There is no reason not to opt for them either, since they're easily obtainable and surprisingly aren't always much more expensive. Don't rule out giving your local Mitsu dealers a call either. You'll be surprised that some items are actually ridiculously cheap because they've been sitting on the shelf 2 states over since 2006. The only time I use aftermarket replacements for stock parts is if it's to keep me from being stranded for less than a couple months, or if upgrading is necessary (Headstuds, mounts, axles, etc.)

If you don't already have one, get a repair manual for your car. It's nice for when you have to do real world fixes such as replacing a light in your dash or taking apart your convertible roof mechanism etc. Not to mention, it should have torque specifications, which needs to be part of your religious :dsm: repair practices. Also, it will contain part #'s. These are super important because they make getting parts a lot easier, and for a few other reasons as well. Make sure you find part #'s whenever possible before calling your parts person, they'll like you more and it's less of a hassle that way.

^Those are just some dsm trade tips that can only benefit you in your car's progression.

Now as far as your car's current status/issues:

1) The rich issue is likely the result of the vented bov as well as numerous boost leaks. You're probably going to want to look into re doing your intercooler piping. It looks like one of the couplers is just a chopped piece of stock piping. :nono:

Check the classified and local dsm forums for used kits for sale. You can usually find a usable set for $80 or under. A new piping kit will also put your bov in an easier place to recirculate.

2) You're likely hitting fuel cut at high RPMS because that 16g combined with boost leaks can't be supported by your fuel system. Complete step 1 and either turn the boost down via bypassing the stock boost control solenoid, or upgrade your fuel system.

Once you fix these issues, your car will be even more fun to drive and you'll have more piece of mind for reliability. Good luck with your journeys and keep updates on your car! Don't be afraid to ask questions either. This community is very thorough compared to other car cults.
 
Oh yeah and I also forgot, replace both of your radiator hoses! That upper one is rotted and ready to burst any day
 
Oh yeah and I also forgot, replace both of your radiator hoses! That upper one is rotted and ready to burst any day

Thanks! Quick question can I get stock radiator hoses for the upper and lower with the aluminum radiator or will I need to get custom? I'm not sure if its stock position or not.

Also its funny you mention buying some new piping for the turbo the other day I was looking around and it hit me... The intercooler is not held down good its almost literally hanging there that can't be good for the plumbing more chance of something getting loose or coming off and lots of the hosing looks old and wore out.

This weekend my main goals are going to be:

- valve cover and fixing those stripped screws and the small oil leak
(my buddy more knowledgeable about cars then me keeps telling me we need to adjust the valves but it looks like we can't just upgrade to the newer revision of the rods with bigger holes. The head has some soft ticking) I will most likely do rods later down the road once I fix the fuel cut.

- going to do the radiator hoses and any other air/vacuum lines
(Recycle the BOV, and maybe get a new one the current one after the exhaust gasket change has a slight whistle at very low rpms coming off the throttle) I'm first going to need to find out what one I got and do some research and learn about BOVs first. I can't imagine it would be to difficult to tell if this one has seen better days. Once this is all done I will figure out how to turn down the boost.

- see if I can pickup used or new piping for the turbo

I think these are the last major things then its on to getting a dsm link and upgrading the fuel system later down the road as I still do minor fixes on other things not so important. I have a repair manual ordered and on the way!

Just wanted to thank everyone again!
 
Your local auto parts store should have the radiator hoses and they will fit just as if the car had the original radiator in it. It appears to be the stock position for a 2g car. 1g's have the upper hose more towards the passenger side and 2g's are in the center pretty much.
Here are good links to Service Manuals that other members/founder of this site have submitted:
http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/download-a-2g-service-manual.324090/
 
I wish @1990TSIAWDTALON would have posted earlier and told you OEM repair manuals are available here on the forums before you ordered one. No need to by a Haynes or Chilton, because they suck anyways...




(my buddy more knowledgeable about cars then me keeps telling me we need to adjust the valves but it looks like we can't just upgrade to the newer revision of the rods with bigger holes. The head has some soft ticking)
Your buddy may be knowledgeable about cars, but clearly has no idea about DSMs. I'd say any advice like this you get, you bring it here and bounce it off the community for a sanity check. I can't count the number of threads where I've seen hackery as a result of advice someone got from their "mechanic" or their "buddy" who says he/she knows DSMs.

You're referring to revised 3G lifters, which are not exactly "rods". It would be a good idea to swap these during the timing belt replacement you're going to do (coming soon below) as the cams can be easily removed to swap them out.




Even if DSMs are new to you, their reputation for being unreliable should not be. Everyone knows DSMs break, but not many people understand why. That's a topic for another time, but let's just say DSMs breaking is typically the fault of the owner, not the car. That fault also is a typical result of overall lack of maintenance.

Now, that being said, it should be obvious that maintenance should be your utmost priority. Luckily, some nice members were kind enough to get even the newest DSM owners on track:

Start here:
http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/maintenance-schedule.239375/

Then here:
http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/dsm-maintenance-guide.476550/

Once EVERY maintenance item above has been checked off, THEN you can mod. If you choose not to follow this advice, the odds that you'll become another broken DSM owner (and also part of the "unreliable" DSM stereotype) are astronomical.
 
A good Chilton book are of great help that's how I got started and just digging in. And the upgrade path here.
 
Thanks for all the help everyone. I have been busy the past weekends so I have not had a chance to really get into bringing my dsm back to life. My plan this week is to do some research and get all new vacuum hosing, radiator hosing, turbo piping and a new BOV I believe mine is out. Hopefully I get all the correct sizes and parts etc. Then I need to get a Valve Cover bolt kit or all new OEM bolts so I can finally take my current valve cover off retap/die all the stripped threads and hopefully all leaks should stop from the valve cover.

I got two small oil leaks still from a spot around the oil filter and the turbo to oil pan return, and also the drain plug from the radiator. I finally got a P1103 check engine code from driving it just a little this weekend so I will leave this alone until I replace vacuum lines and the turbo plumbing plus BOV. I will also check my wastegate and stuff need to read up on how it works worse case hopefully I'll just need a new wastegate actuator but all of them have a life time warranty or says good for life so I don't think thats the issue maybe the leaky BOV. I will post some pics and updates once I get all the parts and start working on it this weekend thanks again everyone.
 
Welcome buddy, enjoy the boost ;P
Thanks!

Did you ever fix the brake light issue?
I have not got around to it, It's been awhile weather has been shit so shes been sitting for a bit. I'm about to get started on replacing the valve cover gasket, I'm seeing lots of pictures of people using silicon or something similar to help seal the valve cover is this something I need to do and if so what type of compound do I need to use?

After I fix the leaks and clean out the interior I think she will be ready to daily, I'm going to get a dsmlink so I can start playing around and get familiar so when I get the fuel mods I should be comfortable doing some tunes.
 
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