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Resolved Intermitent gear lockout

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DSM's 4 life

10+ Year Contributor
649
14
Nov 13, 2011
Buffalo, New_York
My 1g has been on the road about 2 month now I drive it everyday. Today on the way home from work my car wouldent go into gear I had this same issue two weeks back. It will go into gear fine when the car is off and will lurtch forward when you attemp to start it in gear (clutch not dissengaugeing?). I thought my clutch had got too hot and got stuck to the flywheel when it first happend. I put my car in gear started it and mashed the pedal to get it going and power through it. after that it was fine. I have a brand new oem slave and a exedy master cylinder and a new napa clutch. I have adjusted the pedal in the car the rod is all the way in and i can still push the clutch slave in with my hand. My clutch ball has been shimmed with two washers and is closer the the slave side than engine when resting but not hitting bellhousing. I have re bleed the slave and i am getting a lot of travel what i dont get is why its intermitent I can put the car in first gear rev to 6k and car will not lurch then park it after a normal cruse and have it drag to the point I cant get it in gear.
 
Napa clutch? How old is it? Why did you assume it got too hot did you burn it up on a launch?


By the way my car had a Napa clutch when I bought it and the spring ended up popping out and jamming the pressure plate, it gave me the same exact symptoms.
 
I'm on stock hp I bought a used act2600 but ended up being shot just got my money back a month later but that's another story. I went with the Napa one was $117 so I could get my car driving again.
 
Assuming the clutch is good and everything is torqued down correctly (including the bell housing), first thing to do is make sure there is absolutely no air in the lines. It takes a good amount of bleeding to completely remove all air bubbles. Also the adjustment rod shouldn't be all the way in, there's a video on youtube showing the right amount of adjustment.
 
My clutch ball has been shimmed with two washers and is closer the the slave side than engine when resting but not hitting bellhousing.

The slave cylinder is mounted on the engine side so you might want to fix your statement to avoid further confusion. I think you mean it's "closer to the slave side that the transmission"

I would also suspect that your aftermarket master cylinder might be causing your intermittent issues. Have you tried pumping the clutch pedal whenever it's locking you out and see if that helps?
 
Both of these posts explain the adjustment I did. when I say closer to the slave Im saying the relative possiton of the fork inside the opening on the transmission. I have 1 1/4" from the back side of my fork to the opening edge.

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here is my bay
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here is a video of my clutch assembly anything look out of place?
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I would like to thank JNZ Tuning for a post I saw I bleed the system at least a dozen times with no luck. I followed the post where you bleed as normal with the screw open push the slave in by hand then close the screw did this 3 times and my issue was resolved. I don't understand why because my open and closed clutch fork distance remained the same.
 
Glad you found that post.

I wrote that up after years of getting calls from people having the same issue when installing something new in the clutch system, and wanted to put something out there that would at least rule out proper bleeding being the issue (it was the solution more times than not).

I was always surprised at how many people who had worked on these cars for years didn't know the correct way to bleed the clutches, and would run into issues. This isn't putting them down in the least, but the information wasn't (to my knowledge) out there for people to reference.

I need to save that post as a favorite at some point, as I always have to search for it when I want to send it to someone.

I'm glad it alleviated your problem and was of use to you.

Josh
JNZ Tuning
www.jnztuning.com
 
I would like to thank JNZ Tuning for a post I saw I bleed the system at least a dozen times with no luck. I followed the post where you bleed as normal with the screw open push the slave in by hand then close the screw did this 3 times and my issue was resolved. I don't understand why because my open and closed clutch fork distance remained the same.
Air doesnt change the position of the fork but it does change how far it will throw. That's why.
 
And Mr. Lyons is correct as usual.

We old-school DSM guys may be old, but we're pretty well versed in the diagnostics of these cars at this point (then again, with owning these cars for this long, we'd almost have to be).

Good to see you still around, Paul!
 
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