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2G 2g auto GSX best rear-end to use for 8's

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TheFlashDSM

Supporting Member
1,082
312
Feb 18, 2010
stony brook, New_York
im currently do an 8 sec build, 99 eclipse gsx auto. see build here >>> http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/my-2g-dsm-second-build-this-ones-going-smoother.499369/

i cant find much online about this so if anybody knows of any threads please post up for me! i know people run 3000gt vr4, evo, rears but im seeing all this for manual gsx's even ford 9" rears but again for manual's,

question; its time to do the rear-end what set up should i use for my build, 8 sec auto gsx? year, model, part number, anything will help.

question; is my stock lsd rear good to hold 800+ 8sec 1/4 mile?
 
if not the ford 8.8", use a 3kgt rear end. iirc, boostin uses a 3s rear end in their Red Demon.

an 8.8 would do the job tho. depending on rpm, power level and what not, a 9 inch could be used. but it would also soak up alot of power.
 
If you break stock rears with a an auto running 8s your prObably going to be breaking other stuff too. Leave softer and let the power do the work.

so i can use my stock lsd rear and it will hold up? what about the chassis? bushings? thoughts to make it strong? im doing this build by my self and im not a shop its garage built, so im stuck doing all the research and im grateful for all the help!
 
people over look this most of the time. good suspension tuning can help avoid breaking drive line parts more than any other single thing. heck even the 3 bolt rear end from a 1g can take a lot of power with a good suspension set up. keep it from bottoming or twisting front back. these things break quickly when they start to bind at all.
 
people over look this most of the time. good suspension tuning can help avoid breaking drive line parts more than any other single thing. heck even the 3 bolt rear end from a 1g can take a lot of power with a good suspension set up. keep it from bottoming or twisting front back. these things break quickly when they start to bind at all.


so if i got solid bushings for the sub and the red bushings for the rear arms and suspension i should be good?
 
dont do the upper suspension bushings on the rear, if memory serves they make things worse not better.

even then an 8 second 1/4th is a lot of power, maybe the evo 3 lsd swap in the OEM housing with billet cover?

start with correct suspension, work out to drive line. saves money long run, otherwise if you break an oem rear and swap to a ford rear and bind it up you will just break it too.
 
dont do the upper suspension bushings on the rear, if memory serves they make things worse not better.

even then an 8 second 1/4th is a lot of power, maybe the evo 3 lsd swap in the OEM housing with billet cover?

start with correct suspension, work out to drive line. saves money long run, otherwise if you break an oem rear and swap to a ford rear and bind it up you will just break it too.

so just make it so the rear dosnt move at all just up and down for the suspension? no front to back? where can i find information on how to make the rear hold, make it strong, i cant find anything out there about a huge power build's rear end, no body gives information
 
http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/how-to-properly-mount-your-2g-rear-diff.371574/
This product was made to limit the excessive movement the diff has in it's stock configuration.
http://frontlinefabrication.com/product/2g-dsm-girdled-rear-differential-cover/ This is a rear diff cover that incorporates load bolts for the bearing caps.
http://frontlinefabrication.com/product/dsmevo-rear-diff-bearing-caps/ These are 4140 bearing caps with ARP hardware.
This is about all you can do to the factory diff short of swapping in the Evo clutch type LSD. I wouldn't worry so much about your rear diff, run the stock one, if it becomes a weak link then upgrade. Your gonna have bigger problems getting to 8s than a rear diff.
 
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