Lot of air blowing out from top stick frequently points to a bad pcv valve. Stupid question but is your tester hooked up right at the turbo housing? If the dip stick is blowing out lots air the valve cover breather hose should be to. Is it smoking and do the turbo blades hit/rub up against the housing?

Yeah it's connected at the turbo, I plugged the breather hose. I also plugged the line that goes from the IC piping to MBC. It is not smoking, and I can check the blades tomorrow. If they are rubbing, I'll need a new wheel?

If they are rubbing (without trying to force it to happen) then your likely in need of a rebuild. Depending on how bad it is you may need a wheel. When you check for side to side if you hear the blades tapping the housing back and forth then you definitely need rebuild,by this tume usually it would be smoking. Check the pcv valve aswell.

okay thanks. I will post results

I say check turbo. If it's good. Get a new pcv. Or install inline check valve. And fix the throttle body gasket leak. If you can notice it leak at 5psi imagine what it's like at 10 psi. That turbo is working hard to build boost.

Have u replaced your throttle body seals? Those are notorious for leaking. Wouldn't hurt to do a compression test to check the health of the motor. Popping dipstick usually indicates high crankcase pressures.

I replaced the TB seals a few months ago. I just replaced the pcv valve. It looked worn, probably going to do a compression test. just took the intake off. I didn't hear the slight tapping until I watched the video

That looks like a lot of play.

You may want to ensure you are trying the blt when warm. Additionally, you can also try the test after the compressor housing.

2gmitsueclipse said:

You may want to ensure you are trying the blt when warm. Additionally, you can also try the test after the compressor housing.

Click to expand...

I BLT after the compressor housing and works fine. My compressor housing has a smooth lip which makes the coupler slip off when I get above 20 psi. Let me tell ya, that coupler popping off at 20 psi scares the crap out of you every time haha

OP- The turbo looks like it has more than normal play but then again, I have seen A LOT worse that ran fine.

Boomdeeze said:

I BLT after the compressor housing and works fine. My compressor housing has a smooth lip which makes the coupler slip off when I get above 20 psi. Let me tell ya, that coupler popping off at 20 psi scares the crap out of you every time haha

OP- The turbo looks like it has more than normal play but then again, I have seen A LOT worse that ran fine.

Click to expand...

T-bolt clamps and brake cleaning the coupler+inlet work much better than worm gear clamps. Up to the 40psi I test at. On a 3.25" turbo inlet, that's about 3 times the clamping force needed in comparison (double the pressure, ~1.5x the "surface area" against the seal aka circumference)

Here's a re-cap of my day. I changed the pcv valve and took it for a test drive no issues. Then I drive it to my buddies house to tune it on 750cc injectors and link v3. On the way, the boost starts to sputter at 15lbs. Get to friends house and pulled the intake pipe and did a compression test. cylinder 1 was 180, and the rest were 160. Turbo seemed fine. After we set idle, coolant started leaking from the o-ring at the water pump and pipe. I just finished fixing that, but I broke a j-pipe bolt off in my compressor housing. It's in real rough shape so I'm trying to get this bolt out or source a compressor housing soon to continue diagnostics.