The Top DSM Community on the Web

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. Log in to remove most ads.

Please Support Rix Racing
Please Support STM Tuned

ECMlink Ingersoll Rand bcs install issues

This site may earn a commission from merchant
affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Sweet ill be buiding my block later getting after i relocate soon. cant wait to throw my hx35 on same goals street strip. i was looking at the fp turbos but came across some deals what you boosting at , and what you shooting for hp goals.
 
I'm at 20 psi right now, still not in the blacks effiency range..... Still pulls really hard. I want to turn up the boost to 30psi and see what happens.Link is estimating me at 370. I'm getting 40lbs/min at 7k in 3rd
 
Why does the block need to come out to install head bolts? You can switch them in one at a time, it won't hurt anything. I've done it a few times with no issues. Just Follow the arp instructions and make sure to check torque after the first heat cycle. ;) then crank that boost up!!
 
Last edited:
I meant like if I'm gunn pull the Damn head off, I might as well build the block. I have all the parts. I'm tired of worrying about the lower end. I wanna turn up the damn boost!
 
U don't have to pull the head. Like dsmkauai mentioned u can remove a headbolt and install an arp head stud. One by one. Following arp's torque sequence after they are finger tight. I just got my saturn alternator issue sorted out. Can't wait to hit the boost!! Been well over a month. I was getting a bad withdraway haha.
 
U don't have to pull the head. Like dsmkauai mentioned u can remove a headbolt and install an arp head stud. One by one. Following arp's torque sequence after they are finger tight. I just got my saturn alternator issue sorted out. Can't wait to hit the boost!! Been well over a month. I was getting a bad withdraway haha.
I mean like if I'm going to go through the trouble, the car has 100k on it. I might as well rebuild it. Why pull the head, resurface it put a new headgaket, knowing I have a ticking time bomb in the lower end. I'm aware I can remove the head with the engine in the car. I just think with 100k on the block it should be rebuilt
 
I have a Compression tester, leak down tester and a cumbustion gas detector on the way. I'm going to run the tests and go from there.
 
Yeah, I'm about to roll 100k on my 1g and I'm not worried about the lower end At all. You shouldn't be either! If it goes, it goes you have a backup right? So get out there and enjoy it!!

That being said my 1g seems to be some sort of anomaly since in the 3 years that I've owned it it hasn't broken or left me stranded once (That wasn't something I couldn't fix on the side of the road IE IC piping) Put the ARPs in as Dsmkauai suggested and just get what you know needs to be done, no point worrying about what ifs.
 
100k id's nothing for a well maintained 4g63. I'm about to roll over 200k and still pushing strong. Last time I blew a headgasket car had 175k approximately and I could still see the the cylinder walls as fresh as can be. U don't need to pull the headgasket just leave the one u have in there.
 
Yes!!! Did it with my gst and it had over 200k miles and never one issue. Dd with 20psi on a 16g and couldn't tell you how many times I raced that car at the track running low 12's ;) Never had one single issue with that thing till the balance shaft belt took out my timing belt :( then it went boom. Also did it with my gvr4 again no issues. But that motor has since been rebuilt :)
 
Last edited:
Ok so you remove one bolt..... Like in order, torque it to its final setting and move to the next? What did you torque the first bolt to? 95 ft lbs. So I remove number 1.... Lube up the stud, screw it in hand tight, then torque it down to it final setting without torquing in steps?
 
I didn't drain any fluids. How I did it was like the instructions say but one at a time. I put the stud in then backed off then put in again. Then torqued the nut in steps till it was at the right torque. Then after a heat cycle or 2 I rechecked. Never had a issue at all! ;) To me this made the most sense so the head would stay down like it's supposed to, and less chance the gasket would get messed up.
 
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Innovation Products Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications MyMitsubishiStore.com RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Vendor Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top