Background:
So I'm chasing a very intermittent misfire dtc that that I don't really feel. Sometime pops up as random sometimes pops up as cylinder. 2. Never during wot. Only after cruising.

My ignition system has new everything minus coil pack so it's first thing I test. Resistance at primary is 1.1ohm from 1 to 3 pin and 2 to 3 pin. Book calls for max .9
Secondary coil tests fine at 13.4 for 1 and 4 and 2 and 3.

Question is this enough out of spec to cause this phantom misifire?

This is a 6 bolt with 2g cas and kiggly crank sensor (to retain stock 2g wiring)

^ Negatron.
Coils can be slightly out of spec and work just fine.
They can also read good values at ambient, but can be out of spec at other ranges like high heat.

It can be difficult to test the coils at high temps after wot, while cruising.
Perhaps trying another pack? although i see where this can be kind of bothersome.


But my opinion is your pack should be ok.

( 6 bolt/1G Cas )

If it makes a difference, when still hot the resistance is 1.3ohm.

I'll just find one to swap out I suppose. Guess I didn't know how lax the spec could be, but other than burning one of my newish SS valves, I don't have much else to check that'd cause a "misfire."

new BR8ES plugs
New accel wires
Cams are tuned for couple * less overlap but that's it for timing.
No codes for o2 sensor (replaced last season). Fuel trims are fine, can't find any spots where my afrs suddenly spike lean that would indicate the misfire. Tune is spot on other than this thorn of a dtc.

^ it's understandable.
Chasing possible causes is tricky, everything is connected and working in function so what may fell like ignition related can actually be fuel or ect....
If its cheap, go for it. But i know what bad coils read and yours don't appear to be.

To read those low resistance reading accurately as the specs require a pretty good DVOM.
Current ramping a coil is the real way to test a coil in use under load using power.
Resistance with the coil inert will only tell so much.

I know first done & tuning my 2g 6 bolt with the CAS loved to miss or shut down 2.
Not that type of issue?

Your coil resistances are pretty normal but if you really want to test a coil you need to actually produce a spark and visually see if the spark is strong.

Coil spark test:
Place a screwdriver in the 2/3 coil's secondary high voltage output terminal (or a spark plug cable end of either plug 2 or 3. Keep screwdriver shank (or an attached wire to it) 1/8" from ground metal so a spark can jump across to ground (simulates spark plug gap). Unplug the power transistor and connect a wire to the blue-black wire's pin of the harness. Make sure you have gloves on and stand on a dry rubber mat. Turn ignition key to on. Now touch the other end of the wire to ground for a second (charges coil - may see spark where touching to ground due to high current-normal). Now remove wire from ground and you should see the spark (> 30KV) jump the gap from the screwdriver shank to ground (may also see small spark where you removed wire-normal). Repeat with the black-white pin for the other coil for plugs 1 & 4. You should see a strong blue spark.