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Road Race Build ESi + 4G63 + AWD + Evo 8 + HE351VE = Project Warface

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Hello all,

Sorry I've been away from this thread for so long, but life gets busy sometimes.

Update: Still haven't got a motor together. It's been a nightmare trying to get this bi*** back on the road for some reason. Several motor issues in a row. 2 ish years its been off the fcuking road. :mad: :banghead:

Built one up from the 2 busted ones and it blew the head gasket immediately. Guess I shouldn't have cheaped out on getting it decked. Especially after all the work I put into it so far.



Anyways, I'm up in work at a camp now so I have a lot of time to put into adding the 400+ more photos of all the sensors, Brembos, brake boosters, master cylinder, brake lines, uprights, suspension, intake, intercooler, exhaust, injectors, computer, fuel pump, AFPR, FIC Easy Driver, and any other parts I have installed on this car.

Its juuuuust about there. Need a new motor, install ALL 3 diffs, install the HE351VE Turbo, my VGT controller (that I bench tested in the car while driving around this last summer SUCCESFULLY) and its fully fully done. Minus a final coat of paint and some bumper swaps.

The last phase will be cooling. This thing overheated so fcuking bad at the track that I have been struggling to keep temps down. 10 laps in and its heat soaked from the big16G....gotta figure out a way to dump that heat better. Trans cooler, and some creative sheet metal work to add some ducting for the brakes, and the Taurus fan swap (puts out HUGE CFM numbers....draws 50-60AMPS on high mode i guess)

Stayed tuned. I'll have new pics up in the next 3 weeks for sure.

Cheers,
Mr. Lucas
:hellyeah:
 
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Well I blew a rod (I think) in my 7-bolt testing the HE351VE so I swapped in a 6-bolt I had planned on rebuilding first. Tore the 6-bolt down a bit and everything seemed okay. Bearings looked great still, new water pump, and some other positives made it worth the risk to just run it as-is to get it back on the road. I still have another 6-bolt bear block that I can rebuild so fcuk it, it is what it is.

After the 6-bolt went in I worked on the firmware on my HE351VE controller and put on 300 miles testing and changing the firmware for the controller over the last 3 days.

All I can say is WOW does that vane mechanism work sooooo well.

I tested 40% closed to 100% closed at steps of 5% to help narrow down what the final maps (maps are all user customizable) will be for my setup. I nailed down the WOT row of the main positioning map which netted a lot better spool....but it felt like it could get some more spool.

I created and tuned a quick spool map that helps that monster turbo get as much help as it can out of boost. That was the final piece. I'm getting spool everywhere now.

Maps are done for WOT and quick spool only so there is a fair bit of work left to get the part throttle ironed out more.

With the vanes fully open (no controller) and starting at ~2000 RPM to full boost (22 psi) and beyond:
1st gear: No boost at all....well it does make 8 psi at 6800RPM but who cares.
2nd gear: 22 psi @ 6200 RPM
3rd gear: 22 psi @ 5600 RPM

Here are my HE351VE controller results so far (again from ~2000 RPM up):
1st gear: 1-2 psi instantly, 10 psi by 5500, 22 psi by 6100, and crazily 28 psi at redline (7500)
2nd gear: 1-2 psi almost instantly, 10 psi by 4000, and 22 psi by 4800 RPM
3rd gear: 1-2 psi within a 1/2 second or so, 10 psi by 3800, and 22 psi by 4300 RPM.

Notes:
-With quick spool mode on you can hear that turbo spooling every where. It has this wind up sound to it at an TPS point over 10%. Part throttle stop and go traffic has that thing spooling up and down like crazy....gets a lotta head turns.
-In between shifts it manages to hold the spool up and you get 12-14psi as soon as WOT in the next gear.... it hits like a hammer every shift now.
-Can create quicker spool time by messing with the vane maps and WGS in link but it makes the compressor surge in 4th gear.
-The absolute limit of spool is 10 psi from 3000 - 3500 RPM...anymore and the compressor starts surging.
-As soon as boost climbs over ~24psi (which is 0.1s after 22) it starts to want to climb really fast. That compressor wants waaaaay more boost so those 22 psi @ XXXX RPM could easily be 30 psi. It climbs fast when over 24....really really fast.
- It's an absolute blast on the street. It spools as soon as WOT and then builds 10 psi quick....with max boost coming on at ~4000-4500 and then holding that 22 psi strong to redline it just pulls and pulls and pulls. So so quick bang through gears now. 2nd gear its just nuts now. Much wow.



In closing:
I will post all the logs, videos, and pics....after i tweak the firmware a bit more.


Stayed tuned, this thing is a BEAST.
 
Anything new here?

This post actually motivated me to get off my butt and post some shiiit. hahaha.

I got hit with TeslaCrypt about 1-1.5 years ago and it took a lotta work over the last couple weeks to fix that....but its fixed and I got all my pics in one spot now.

TBH I haven't posted due to fuel injector issues, then turbo blown, then another turbo blown, then my 7 bolt blew, and now my 6 bolt has shiit comp on 1 cylinder and ridic blow by. I was hoping to have a car with almost no issues before I posted the final pics.....but I guess it is a DSM and that's wishful thinking hahaha. So fcuk it imma post what I have.
 
The long long long awaited update. Man I forgot how much work it was to sort photos, resize, rename, upload to photobucket and then add some content text. All done the brakes update so here she goes....


The EVO 8 brake upgrade with JDM Galant knuckles, braided brake lines, 17/16 master cylinder, and 8" +9" brake booster.

So I originally bought this off a member here. He's no longer a member and TBH I got a bit shafted on the sale. The pics he posted were not what I got. The front calipers were crudely "shaved" with a grinder to clear his rims. The shaved calipers were not in the pics but rather he posted a pic of come clean calipers. Not happy when I got em, and I did biiitch but got nowhere with that....there is another issue that you'll see later on which he said I caused. In the end they were functional and I fixed the second issue back to factory spec so whadya do.

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You can really see the "shaved" caliper. FFS. Not happy.


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The painted (super shiiitly) is the upsized booster. From the Top they were both the same thickness.


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From the front you can see how much larger of a diameter the upsized one is. As far as pedal feel it made a massive difference much softer but the brakes grabbed much harder for the same level of force on the pedal.


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Initial shots with the winter shoes on.


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Bearing was rusted in there pretty good. Took quite a bit of force to press em out. Buffed up the rusted surfaces and they slide right into the new uprights.


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So To clear my rims (and any future rims) I threw on a 1/2" spacer....well that spacer means I would run out of wheel stud. I found these studs locally with the same thread pitch and length plus the extra 1/2" in the base. Literraly the same stud with just an extra lil bit on it. Later on I tested the stud with my reg rims without the spacer and the base did not protrude into the bolt hole. I can run with or without the spacer without any issues. Perfect. :)


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Went to throw on the rotors and found the new studs actually were bigger than the rotor stud hole....



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Nothing a drill can't fix. Spun em on the car after they were drilled out and they were still perfectly hub-centric. No wobble. Fcuk ya!


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Big fatty spacer! FTW! You can see here that the base of the stud just barely protrudes from the rotor. Now if I get rims with the proper offset to clear, these studs will still work. :)


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Finished shot! Man they look good.


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First shot from the front and first impression was "man does that spacer ever push that wheel out...not sure I like that"


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Second shot from the front and second impression was "WTF....it didn't push it out as far this side....wait a fcuking minute here...."


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Something is definitely wrong here....one side is waaaay out. Did that piece of shiiit hit a curb and sell me his bent shit!?!? I've bent enough uprights with my Hondas to know something is fcuked here. WTF!!!


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Ripped it all fcuking apart to check measurements on these uprights....


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Got em dead flat on the floor to measure...


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Damn close to 3" on center of the BJ hole on the good upright...


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FCUUUUUUUUUUUK!!! 4"?!?!? Mos def bent. Little shit sold me his busted shiiiit. Good thing I am a master metal worker I can fix this but did NOT need to deal with this. :mad:


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7 3/4" on the good one....


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8 " on the other...mos def bent....


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So at the locally military base there's an auto club civies can join. The rate is sickAF too....$2/hr for a reg bay (with a full chest of tools), $4/hr for the bays with 2 post car hoists, and $6/hr for the paint booth. They have crazy tools there and LOOOOOOTS of them. Welders, tire mounting machines....AND a 50 Ton HUGE azz press. I threw the upright on the press with a small jig bolted to it to keep it square to the press head. I used a straight edge and my calipers to check the distances against my good upright. Back and forth little by little I forced the fcucking thing back into shape.


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BOOOOOM!!! Bang on 49.52 mm unloaded. Within 0.02 mm. I was shocked how close I got it back to "stock"


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12 TONS!! Damn it took a lotta pressure to get it back into shape.


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Back on the uprights went with some new braided lines to frim up that pedal feel a bit more.


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Onto the rear....


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Size comparo of the rear rotors to stockers....doesn't seem like a lot but it is....I have issue with my rears locking up too soon now which is absolutely terrifying the first time you feel that big azz swinging around under heavy braking. I believe its spring rate related tho. If not I'll just swap in some pads with less of a bite.


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Onto the MC and BB....


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Buh-bye Felicia!


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New MC needed a little "hammer" love to the shock tower to clear. That little extra diameter doesn't seem like a lot but she didn't quite slide in without a little mod to the tower.


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From the top you can see how tight it was. Didn't take a lot of denting, just a few well placed taps to the tower and it slid right in.


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The old brake lines didn't quite line up. The front one was close-ish but the side entry one needed a whole new orientation to line up. Brake lines are a breeze to bend tho.


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IT's hard to see but the clutch line needed to be re routed slightly. THe upsize in diameter on the BB mean there was zero room to run the clutch line under and behind it. Had to reroute in front of the BB instead. No biggie.


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All done and sitting pretty. :D


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Huge difference in the front rotor size tho!


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Man does it stop fcuking good now. Before I upgraded my shocks and springs I used to be able to lock all 4 wheels at 120 kph easily. With that MC and BB upsized along with the braided lines the pedal feel is firm and smooth and if you mash it it has the power to lock all those wheels NP! My brakes are still one of my favorite ups.
 
Now that the car can stop reeeeeeeeealy really good, its time to make it go fast. I like to go fast. :D

Data data data. How can you tell what parts are doing what and if that last upgrade was helping? First up is DSMLink V3 and some sesnors. Amazingly, I forgot to include pics of the ECU, but its plug and play anyways so fcuk it.

DSMLink V3 (no pics), LC1 Wideband, boost gauge, GM3Bar map sensor, and IR boost control solenoid.


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The pigtail with the proper slits cut into the plug to fit the GM style plug on the MAP sensor.


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Ops....wired it to short the first time to tuck it off to the side....lil double wiring is always fun.


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The LC1 innovates "box" fits nicely on top of the stock rad fan. Easy access to unplug for heat calibrations.

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I cannot say enough good things about the IR BCS and DSMLink boost control. Works soooooooo damn good. I just wish that you could tune boost from 1-5 instead of 1-3. I know you can adjust where each gear starts so you can play with it a bit, but all and all very slick boost control.


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Now for breathing. Clearly the stock system has some choke points so big intercooler and upsized piping all around. I ended up using a CXRacing "universal" kit that I got for $250....crazy cheap considering how much stuff you get with it. The BOV that came with it was cheap as fcuk so obvs not using that POS. But everything else look good. Welds on the intercooler were all prime and piping and couplers are just off the shelf and shiny. :)


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Tons of stock air ducting that had to go to fit that monster intercooler....


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Little bumper mod to fit that intercooler's big azz in.


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Buh-bye little stocker...


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Went to run the pipe off the turbo outlet and found a little interference....the crossmember was perfectly in the way....fcuk it imma go through it. Hahahah.


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Did some reinforcement to strengthen it back up...


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Wooooo! Look at all that room now. :D


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Originally I decided to use the stock tube as it had the BOV "bung" on it as I ran the crushed 1G BOV until I did my Holset swap but we'll get to that in a bit...


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The cross member worked perfectly....much better routing without having to do any miters or shiiitty bend that impede flow.


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BAM! Done! I do not like how the bumper hides all that frontal area....and lately its hurting my cooling with the holset. I think I am going to switch to a 2GB eclipse bumper so that I can cut it out a bit and have it still look "stock" while giving lots of flow.
 
Alright....the hardest part of my build so far....the fuel. MAAAAAAAAAAN did I fight this forever....nearly 2 fcuking years of piisssing around with this buuuuuullshiiiiit.

Not that she can breathe in better and I have sensors and logging wrapped up, it's time to add some fuel and turn up that boost a bit (still on the T25 at this point). Started out with a AFPR, a push lock AN line on the rail out, and a wally 400.


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When I went to install the braided lines on the rail output I found that I could not use a reg AN fitting as it interfered with timing cover so its time do some creative fab. Decided that cutting apart the stocker FPR to get reuse the plate and o-ring dealie with a welded on AN style thread would be the easiest/quickest route.


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