No start after drive/start after long sit

BoostedBadger · Jun 1, 2016

Alright sorry if I started something that's already been answered BUT I'm two weeks on the forum on this problem, no answer.

I have a 95 Eagle Talon TSi, 16g, Greddy typeS, FuelLabs FPR, 2.5 IC charge pipes, fmic.

Had a transmission problem(stupid fix, shift linkage bracket loose, middle of someone else's project) so trans swapped. Kept the starter in, new trans in(from my gst 60k on trans) had a fr generator circuit CEL code(previous to swap). Swapped my alternator, now when I drive for a while go park, come out 20-30mins and 1click and nothing. All lights on, would take a jump and I was good. Bout a week of jump starts and the last one took bout 20mins to jump. Thought it was the battery so I got a new one. Same problem, long drive she's like hahahah your stuck. But if I come home from work at 5p and go to work at 7a starts right up.

Already added new CTS, new black IAC, TB rebuild, new terminals, starter isn't loose, starter is grounded. Everything on the alternator is tight.

Please weight in, again sorry if this is resolved somewhere. Just tired or searching so much old feeds that aren't along this problem.

2gmitsueclipse · Jun 1, 2016

It sounds like you have a voltage drop somewhere. Instead throwing on parts, have you tried troubleshooting with a multi-meter?

Do you happen to have an aftermarket alarm?

BoostedBadger · Jun 1, 2016

2gmitsueclipse said:
It sounds like you have a voltage drop somewhere. Instead throwing on parts, have you tried troubleshooting with a multi-meter?

Do you happen to have an aftermarket alarm?

No sir I do not have an alarm. I have played with my multi meter but I'm still not too savvy on the electric. I'm a Nissan Tech so I have access to AllData and a few extra tools. Been back and forth between there and the forum.

Only reason I slapped on those parts was the codes. That little CTS was a huge problem, most codes are gone. IAC comes back here and there cause I still have known boost leak on the backside of my wastegate. Was going to do a new test this week but this problem arose. Where should I begin lookin bud for the volt drop? The basics? Batt, starter and Alt?

Thanks Again.

Dsmkauai · Jun 2, 2016

Have you checked the voltage output on the alternator and battery to see if it's the same? How do the cables look? It's possible the cables are badly corroded inside and not allowing sufficient charge to get thru. What about the signal wire on the starter is it on good. And also check it's getting proper voltage.

19gsx91 · Jun 2, 2016

+1 on Dsmkauai, I would check the voltage at the starter, make sure everything is tight and as it supposed to be, it's possible the solenoid is failing, chevys used to have that problem on hot days, the starter would heat soak.. you'd stop to pump gas, get back in it and it would either click out or turn over very slowly, I got stuck at many a gas station before I switched over to a mini starter. check the voltage with the car off, the car running, and then with someone turning it over when it's hot, I'd be willing to bet that your voltage will be drastically lower because somethings causing a massive draw.

BoostedBadger · Jun 2, 2016

alright ill see what I can come up with after work if she wants to start. I'll get her on a lift and start testing with the multi meter. On AllData right now getting diagrams and readings I should see.

BoostedBadger · Jun 11, 2016

19gsx91 said:
+1 on Dsmkauai, I would check the voltage at the starter, make sure everything is tight and as it supposed to be, it's possible the solenoid is failing, chevys used to have that problem on hot days, the starter would heat soak.. you'd stop to pump gas, get back in it and it would either click out or turn over very slowly, I got stuck at many a gas station before I switched over to a mini starter. check the voltage with the car off, the car running, and then with someone turning it over when it's hot, I'd be willing to bet that your voltage will be drastically lower because somethings causing a massive draw.

Alright, sorry for the late reply. I have 12v(seen 14v once started)at the batt. 12v at the starter and 5v at the signal wire. I changed the signal connecter to a tighter fitting. Locked down the power cord on the starter. Everything is tight. Still get a click and no start at times.

Drove about 6-7 miles on a triple digit day, stopped at the Casino to cash a check came out 20mims later. Click.

Just got home at 6:30pm Pacific Time and went to start it at now 8:20pm and just a click.

I pulled the starter out and jumper the signal wire and it turns over no problem outside the car. I have a spare starter from my GST that was totaled, possibly going to put that in this week.

Have a 2hr from Vegas to St George this week. Trying to get that resolved so I feel safe pulling over for gas or snacks LOL

.

19gsx91 · Jun 11, 2016

Just for giggles swap batteries with a known good one and see what works. did you ever have someone check voltage while you were cranking? Battery testers at my work have a reading with just the two clamps hooked to positive and negative and then a "load" switch, some batteries pass. most fail.

BoostedBadger · Jun 11, 2016

19gsx91 said:
Just for giggles swap batteries with a known good one and see what works. did you ever have someone check voltage while you were cranking? Battery testers at my work have a reading with just the two clamps hooked to positive and negative and then a "load" switch, some batteries pass. most fail.

I've swapped a 14 Altima Battery it work but was too high and hit the hood. Now have a smaller Versa battery which I know is only 470 on the CC. Problem was the same before that switch. On a budget so whatever I can come across at work right now. Did a system test a work and of course it turned over. Not yet have I had a chance to get reading when not cranking.

I just went out at 8:44 and she turned over with a little hesitation. 14.3v at the battery, will not be able to get to the starter tonight.

2gmitsueclipse · Jun 11, 2016

Not sure exactly what your working with, but the 2g starters will swap fine so long as they are both for either manual or automatic. FWD or AWD turbo won't matter.

5spd 95-99 md172860
auto 95-99 md172861

BoostedBadger · Jun 11, 2016

2gmitsueclipse said:
Not sure exactly what your working with, but the 2g starters will swap fine so long as they are both for either manual or automatic. FWD or AWD turbo won't matter.

5spd 95-99 md172860
auto 95-99 md172861

I was going to put my spare one in from my GST this week and see if it acts up. It just started for me after I posted.

JaysGSX · Jun 19, 2016

BoostedBadger said:
I just went out at 8:44 and she turned over with a little hesitation. 14.3v at the battery, will not be able to get to the starter tonight.

You should check voltage at your battery when it is not starting. Checking after it started does not tell you if the battery is bad as it will be getting 14.3v from a healthy alternator. Sounds like parasitic drain on the battery. Anything electrical not working right in the car? I've seen a couple cases where power door locks cause no start issues when the car sits for a little while. Try pulling your door lock fuse and see if the issue goes away.

eSpyder407 · Jun 19, 2016

Is this an automatic transmission? Is the 'click' you describe more of a 'buzzing sound' If so, before you turn the key to start it, pull the shifter all the way down to the lowest gear and then firmly push it back up to park. Then try to start it.

I had a similar issue with starting my car after I installed my motor/trans... Guess the shift cables were off a bit and the car wouldn't start because it did not think it was in park. Spent a week checking relays starters and electrical gremlins before I messed with the shifter.

If manual transmission, neutral safety switch?

Fayt · Jun 20, 2016

Battery terminals are clean and grounding cable contacts are clean? Are the cables in good condition also, no corrosion on the inside?

BoostedBadger · Sep 27, 2016

JaysGSX said:
You should check voltage at your battery when it is not starting. Checking after it started does not tell you if the battery is bad as it will be getting 14.3v from a healthy alternator. Sounds like parasitic drain on the battery. Anything electrical not working right in the car? I've seen a couple cases where power door locks cause no start issues when the car sits for a little while. Try pulling your door lock fuse and see if the issue goes away.

Passenger Window Switch(classic), and noticed my trunk light is inop. Sorry I didn't specify earlier it's a 5speed.

Sorry I disappeared from this thread for a bit, trans started having issues due to Driver Hub Bearing trying to cease up. Still having the issue. Will have to get a new multimeter cause of course you never get your tools back in the same condition as you lend them.

BoostedBadger · Sep 27, 2016

I did move my ground to the head, is that a better ground point? Changed up the terminals, I'll take pictures tomorrow.

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No start after drive/start after long sit

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