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Street Build bkrathwohl's Galant VR4 #1228/2000

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Well today was part one of driveshaft rebuild day. Sadly I wasn't able to get any great pictures of this process as me and my buddy Nick were pretty occupied the entire time.

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So far all of the new u-joints and the front carrier bearing have been installed. It was getting dark so we didn't start on replacing the rear carrier bearing.

Tomorrow we will get the lobro joint ripped apart, replace the boot, repack the joint, replace the carrier bearing, and snug it all back up. It should be fairly easy, just tedious (much like the rest of the driveshaft was).
 
Looks awesome bro! And that's why I love my Paul Volk crossmember kit :) perfect fitment! And I also love the room it gives. And havnt had any issues even pushing this thing autoxing. Car is solid and frickin fast LOL. Can't wait to see this thing fired up and on the road bro ;)
 
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Friday I ended up getting the lobro rebuilt and the last carrier bearing installed. I tried to take plenty of pictures to make up for not taking any on the first half of the rebuild.

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The grease inside was disgusting. I guess thats what 25 year old grease gets you!

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I cleaned the grease out to get to the nut for the last carrier bearing.

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Here is the new carrier bearing.

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Now for the lobro. There is a c-clip that is holding the lobro in place, that needs to be removed before anything else can be done.

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New boots are about $70 bucks from Mitsubishi. As far as I know they are on a permanent back-order. After some digging I was able to find a third party part on Amazon for about $40 bucks. I figured what the hell, it's worth a shot.

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I have to say, this piece and the OEM one look identical. It even came with the two seals, a new c-clip, and a clamp for the boot. If anyone else is interested in this here is the link:
https://www.amazon.com/Mb505119-Joi...=UTF8&qid=1473633914&sr=8-1&keywords=Mb505119

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After a TON of cleaning. It's time to disassemble the lobro. I marked the three pieces on the lobro and then numbered six cups so that I could put the bearings exactly where I got them from.

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The service manual says to assemble dry.

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Now is the messy part. I used Redline CV2 to repack the lobro joint.

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Next I reinstalled it onto the shaft.

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I put some grease on the side where the nut for the carrier bearing is as well.

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Fully assembled! Sadly I knocked my drink down in this picture too.

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If anyone is contemplating this, check out Jafromobile's channel on YouTube. His channel is full of great information and he has a whole series on rebuilding driveshafts.
 
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Another order from Mitsubishi came in. This order is mostly seals and a few other things that I needed, including my power steering and water pump pulleys.

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Now that I have my brake booster gasket I was able to get the 3g brake booster and 3g master cylinder installed! The 3g master is an EXTREMELY tight fit against the strut tower. There is plenty of room without rubbing though! Sadly when I was cleaning my master cylinder cap I must have set it down on the red towel I was using and it stained... I guess ill have to get a new cap at some point.

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Power steering and water pump pulleys on!

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My missing dowel came in, so I installed that too.

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I didn't really take any pictures of this last part. I replaced the axle seals and output shaft seal on the transmission. The output shaft seal required me to take off the end case and the viscous coupler, in order to slide the shaft out and replace the seal. It isn't hard work. This last picture i'm resealing the case.

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It's rare to see people doing everything right the first time. The car is looking great.
 
It's rare to see people doing everything right the first time. The car is looking great.

Oh this isn't my first time. This is just the only one i've documented. ;)

I'm hoping to hear back from the powder coater this week to get my transmission bracket and starter plate back. Then the transmission can go in! Oh and to see how pretty the valve cover will look.
 
I haven't had a ton of updates as I've been waiting on some of the powder coated parts. Alas, they have arrived!

This blue is SPECTACULAR! It's exactly what I was going for. It reminds me of the Focus RS caliper blue until the sun hits it, then you can see TONS of fleck in it.

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I started assembling the front suspension quite a while back but realized that I was missing the coil seat that sits under the top hat.

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They just sat on my floor like this for a few weeks until I decided to place another Mitsubishi order.....which was last week!

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Quite a lot of goodies here.

I've figured out what I am doing for a power steering line. I am going to make some high pressure SS line to run from the pump to the rack. I found a dual circuit cooler that I will be using for oil and power steering and then ill use 8an Twist-Lok hose for the return line and all of my oil lines.

New spring seats and top hat covers.

A new slave cylinder.

A 14" and 19" SS 3an braided line. There are a bunch of adapters to adapt the 3an line to inverted flare and bubble flare ends. I will be running these two lines from my master cylinder to proportioning valve. Sadly the 3an to bubble flare adapters I bought don't seem to be bubble flare. I will have to get another set of these.

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A bunch of OEM bolts for the fender support brackets, hopefully those can get put on after I send them in for powdercoating!

Finally I could finish the front suspension!

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This weekend was busy. I got a ton of stuff done!

Now that I have my freshly refinished starter plate I am able to move forward with the clutch!

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I can't wait to test out this clutch, I hope it isn't too firm. I had a Competition Clutch stage 3+ in my last DSM and that was terrible (although it felt like stock in the Evo, so that was weird).

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Next I disassembled my Competition Clutch fork and installed the pivot ball into the bellhouse. From there I installed the new Mitsubishi throw out bearing and clip and put it all together. I applied a thin coat of anti seize on the splines so I wouldn't have problems in the future.

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I was going to wait for a friend to help install the transmission, but I got impatient. It wasn't too hard with the transmission jack. It fell off once somehow and the second time it popped right in!

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Mounted!

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New slave cylinder installed.

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Freshly refinished water neck installed.

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Exhaust heat shield (it's in sad shape but its a discontinued part) installed, exhaust hangers installed, driveshaft and new Torque Solution bushings installed!

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Transfer case seals removed.

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New ones installed.

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Transfer case mounted!

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Hood latch freshly powdercoated and installed! If anyone can snap some pictures of how the hood latch cable was routed, I would appreciate it. I have it in there but I don't think it is using the original routing.

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I also ordered a new CAS o-ring seal. I installed it on the CAS but can NOT for the life of me get the cas installed. I'm not sure what the hell is going on but I didn't want to mess with it any further. I'll revisit it later.

Next on the list is my power steering pump rebuild.
 
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Power steering pump rebuilt! It's very simple, especially if you follow this guide by Calan.

I took the threaded pieces and back cover off.

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This is fully disassembled, there are 10 little plates that you have to keep a close eye on because you can lose them easily!

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I didn't really have any in between shots. I ended up doing the flow control valve modification since I had some small washers that fit perfectly. This is supposed to eliminate high RPM cutout.

I gave it a quick paint job so it doesn't look as dingy.

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I'll need to take this nipple off and get a -8an fitting welded onto it.
 
Just placed a pretty massive order from JNZ. I think this is one of the last of the random orders! So close.


Evo X Battery Relocation
  • 8571A017
  • 8571A018
  • 8571A019
Windshield Cowl
  • MB608248 (6)
  • MS240121 (8)
  • MB608317 (2)
  • MB566462 (2)
  • MB566463 (2)
Splash shields
  • MB597569
  • MB597570
  • MB545796
  • MB545795
Subframe plate bolts
  • MU240024 (3)
  • MU240023 (4)
Power Steering Hardware
  • Heatshield MB501177
  • Heatshield Bolt MF244880
  • Mounting Front Nut MS440133
  • Mounting Bolt Front MB553187
  • Mounting Bolt Driver 1 MB553187
  • Mounting Bolt Driver 2 MF244882
Suspension
  • Strut Bolts MB109179 (4)
  • Strut Nuts MF430123 (4)
  • Strut Washers MS450044 (4)
Control Arms
  • Rear plate bushing bolts MU140027 (2)
  • Rear Plate Washers MF450406 (4)
  • Rear Plate Nuts MF445005 (4)
  • Rear Plate Small Bolt MB176900 (2)
  • Control Arm Bolt MB242334 (2)
  • Control Arm Washer MS450044 (2)
  • Control Arm Nut MU430003 (2)
Dipstick Tube MD124782
Dipstick MD127058
Dipstick O-Ring MD075834
BISS Screw MD614948
BISS O-Ring MD608806
BISS Cap MD614150
Axle Bearing MB526956
Shifter Assembly Bushing MB367320 (6)
Shifter Cup Bushing MB307949
Shifter Cotter Pin MF472038 (2)
Brake Fluid Reservoir Cap MB895999

If anyone is interested in the battery relocation i'm talking about, take a look at this thread. Evo X's have a rear mounted battery, so that makes this one of the best looking relocations!
 
Your clutch fork looks a bit far to the driver side. Before you get too far, make sure you can get the adjustment required for proper disengagement.
 
I just spent the last two days reading over this build and the only thing I have to say is you sir are a wizard. The attention to detail and drive to do everything correctly is what these older dsm's need. I wish I had the time/space/money to do the same. One day... awesome build and I'm looking forward to seeing the rest as it comes. I am also in Michigan, a little north of you in auburn hills. I would love to see it when it's finished in some sort of dsm meet up or something. One question I have tho, where on extreme psi did you find that hardline to an fitting you used on your fuel tank. My line that is attached to my sending unit is not going to come off, I have tried, and instead of twisting and breaking the hardline on top trying to get it off I would rather just replace that flex line with a nice steel braided line connected with an fittings.
 
Your clutch fork looks a bit far to the driver side. Before you get too far, make sure you can get the adjustment required for proper disengagement.

I thought the same thing, it seems to be the boot that makes it look that way. It is sitting slightly to the right (drivers side) of the center line.

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It isn't contacting anything inside the bellhousing.

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You had me worried so I did a search on what others think of the Competition Clutch Fork (PN# 5048). It ships with a plastic washer on the pivot ball. I just assumed it needed to be installed with it as the instructions say nothing about removing it. The ones that removed it prior to install have their clutch fork sitting towards the passenger side of the car.

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TMZ Performance mentioned this on their page: Be Sure to REMOVE the plastic washer on the pivot ball prior to installation and install the pivot ball!

So i'm not really sure what to think. I imagine if it were supposed to be removed the instructions would have mentioned that.
 
I just spent the last two days reading over this build and the only thing I have to say is you sir are a wizard. The attention to detail and drive to do everything correctly is what these older dsm's need. I wish I had the time/space/money to do the same. One day... awesome build and I'm looking forward to seeing the rest as it comes. I am also in Michigan, a little north of you in auburn hills. I would love to see it when it's finished in some sort of dsm meet up or something. One question I have tho, where on extreme psi did you find that hardline to an fitting you used on your fuel tank. My line that is attached to my sending unit is not going to come off, I have tried, and instead of twisting and breaking the hardline on top trying to get it off I would rather just replace that flex line with a nice steel braided line connected with an fittings.

Thanks man, you are actually a lot further south of me. Mount Pleasant is in the center of the state! I will definitely be taking this to some sort of meet after it's done. The world needs to see this glorious beast.

The other adapter I used was: Extreme PSI Brass Fuel Line Fitting Adapter

This was the hardline converter I used for the fuel return as well: Earls Ano-Tuff Adapter
 
For anyone else who may be looking to get some OEM parts, the following have been discontinued:

Windshield Cowl
MB608248 (6) DISCONTINUED
MB608317 (2) DISCONTINUED
MB566462 (2) DISCONTINUED
MB566463 (2) DISCONTINUED

Power Steering Hardware
Heatshield MB501177 DISCONTINUED

Splash shields
MB597569 DISCONTINUED
MB597570 DISCONTINUED
MB545796 DISCONTINUED
MB545795 DISCONTINUED

Josh at JNZ also mentioned that he bought the remaining sets of GVR4 shifter cables, if you think you may need some i'd suggest getting them before they are gone forever!

Now to find some good condition fender liners and driver side splash shield...
 
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