you should make this into a tech article.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/site-news/392213-new-tech-article-template.html#post152461514

5 minutes isn't enough time to enjoy it

That's actually one of the "Stage 0" free upgrades in the tech guide.
Tech Guide: 2G 4G63t Upgrades: Stage 0 Power - DSMtuners
Tech Guide: 1G 4G63t Upgrades: Stage 0 Power - DSMtuners

Plus, most of the gunk on the throttle plate is oil coated by dirt particulates that get through the filter and whatever debris may get sucked in from the PCV system (again it's particulate). The EGR is introduced post-throttle plate so really... it's not carbon on the throttle plate. Any carbon deposits that show up from the EGR is going to be in the intake, intake ports and intake valves to which no amount of "throttle plate" cleaning will fix. The only way to get that is with a fogging service like BG or mopar combustion chamber cleaner spraying in to the intake while the engine is running.

However, none of that information is provide with the intent to discredit the value of cleaning the throttle plate. It is indeed a good idea that should be done once a year or so.

Wont using a water/meth injection system help clean the intake tract out?

I've heard of the water method working back in the day (pre-Fuel injection applications) because the cold water hitting the hot pistons breaks off the carbon but I've never tried it.

There are other products that are available that are specifically designed to do the job that I would recommend first though. Plus, I'm not sure that water is going to have an affect inside the intake, only on the pistons.

A lot of people on here have done the egr block off and have filters or catch cans to stop this. I would also suggest buying some seafoam and hook it up to a vacuum line to clean inside the intake manifold.

I was wanting to do this myself on my 2g is it necessary to buy new gaskets when taking it apart?

It's always best to replace gaskets when you take something apart. But in the past I've gotten away with reusing certain gaskets(like tb gaskets) as long as there not ripped and still plyable. Spray a light coat of copper spray on it and it shouldn't leak.

nightmares GS-T said:

Wont using a water/meth injection system help clean the intake tract out?

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I ran water / meth for a while on my 3000gt. It did clean up the intake plenum over time and kept the pistons and valves very clean.

I ran a fairly large DevilsOwn system with two D14 (rated at 882cc @200psi) injectors on a 250psi pump. Estimated total system flow at 250psi was 1972cc. I ran a 75% Meth / 25% Water Mix.

My GSX has been idling high once the temperature gets to operating range. And by high I mean first it's 1.5K then 2K and not long after it idles at 3k! The isc has been replaced, no vacuum or boost leaks. Could the throttle body be getting stuck open at operating temperature due to carbon thus causing my high idle?

Yes it's a real possibility. More likely there may be enough contaminates built up so the throttle plate can not fully close leaving it cracked open more that it suppose to.

DavidJamesDSM said:

My GSX has been idling high once the temperature gets to operating range. And by high I mean first it's 1.5K then 2K and not long after it idles at 3k! The isc has been replaced, no vacuum or boost leaks. Could the throttle body be getting stuck open at operating temperature due to carbon thus causing my high idle?

Click to expand...

Next time it idles at 2k or 3k and won't come down, pop the hood and rotate the apparatus by hand where the throttle cable connects. If you can set it back into a position where the idles drop to normal, you have found your problem and likely need to rebuild your throttle body.

Also, if you have a 1g, be sure the idle position switch is correctly adjusted. It is the little sensor that physically stops the throttle butterfly valve when the car is idling.

Mello said:

Yes it's a real possibility. More likely there may be enough contaminates built up so the throttle plate can not fully close leaving it cracked open more that it suppose to.

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^ agree. Gm drive by wire engines are one of the worst for this and all the conditions it causes and with drive by wire if you don't maintain the throttle I will cause the tac(throttle actuator control) to go bad due to carbon build up and causing too much resistance because butterfly is sticking or binding.

Dhan said:

Next time it idles at 2k or 3k and won't come down, pop the hood and rotate the apparatus by hand where the throttle cable connects. If you can set it back into a position where the idles drop to normal, you have found your problem and likely need to rebuild your throttle body.

Also, if you have a 1g, be sure the idle position switch is correctly adjusted. It is the little sensor that physically stops the throttle butterfly valve when the car is idling.

Click to expand...

It was the throttle cable. Apparently when the car heats up the ambient inside the engine bay actually makes the cable "shrink" thus pulling open the throttle body. Got it readjusted double checked all my sensors were working properly and failed in the biss screw. Runs perfect now

Good deal.

DavidJamesDSM said:

It was the throttle cable. Apparently when the car heats up the ambient inside the engine bay actually makes the cable "shrink" thus pulling open the throttle body. Got it readjusted double checked all my sensors were working properly and failed in the biss screw. Runs perfect now

Click to expand...

You mean filled in the biss screw? Clarify please. And if thats what you did why?

This is my first Mitsubishi and my first turbo car also so I'm new to this, plus I've wanted this eclipse since I was 8yrs old. I got a really good deal, but I'm starting to wonder if the guy didn't know how to keep it up or If maybe I messed it up. I was driving it home with no clutch because he claims in needs a slave cylinder and I agree because it actually turned out that it also needed a master cylinder, basing it off of the brake fluid on the carpet underneath the clutch pedal, but it still has no clutch so I will replace the slave also. Anyways I was driving it home and of course I wanted to test it so geared down to 3rd at 50mph and floored it, I got 15lb of boost and reached 100mph before I let off, but when I went to give it throttle again I was stuck and couldn't go past 2500rmp or +/-50mph. I called him and he said "it'll do that sometimes when you hit a lot of boost because the turbo hose pops off" I've checked all the hoses and still nothing.

Any help? A buddy of mine told me I could come here and find any and all the answers I'm looking for so, please help!

tips000 said:

CLEAN YOUR THROTTLE BODY... i dont understand why people in this forum never say that... think about it... your egr is recirculating exhaust gasses into your intake... exhaust is not a clean thing... its actually a high percent carbon... my car has 120000 miles and i took off the intake elbow and opened the throttle... FILTHY... absolutely gross... to me this seems like a more logical place to start than boost leak or fuel problems

and the kicker is that its so easy to do and SHOULD be part of your general maint.

the procudere from alldata

1. remove elbow attatched to throttle body
2. put tape over the two holes at the bottom inside the throttle body
3. spray the hell out of it with carb cleaner (go play with yourself for 5 min.)
4. wipe out with rag and reasseble
5. start car and rev until you can get a decent idle....
6. let idle for a few...
7. repeat if necesary

after driving a day after doing this i usually like to disconnect the battery to reset the pcm

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if you want to remove carbon deposits from your combustion chamber and valves, use Redline SI-1. Oreilleys sells it for like $13.
I would rate it slightly better than BG44K, and its way cheaper and easier to get.

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95boostedgst_3613 said:

This is my first Mitsubishi and my first turbo car also so I'm new to this, plus I've wanted this eclipse since I was 8yrs old. I got a really good deal, but I'm starting to wonder if the guy didn't know how to keep it up or If maybe I messed it up. I was driving it home with no clutch because he claims in needs a slave cylinder and I agree because it actually turned out that it also needed a master cylinder, basing it off of the brake fluid on the carpet underneath the clutch pedal, but it still has no clutch so I will replace the slave also. Anyways I was driving it home and of course I wanted to test it so geared down to 3rd at 50mph and floored it, I got 15lb of boost and reached 100mph before I let off, but when I went to give it throttle again I was stuck and couldn't go past 2500rmp or +/-50mph. I called him and he said "it'll do that sometimes when you hit a lot of boost because the turbo hose pops off" I've checked all the hoses and still nothing.

Any help? A buddy of mine told me I could come here and find any and all the answers I'm looking for so, please help!

Click to expand...

I cleaned the throttle body 3 times and still nothing and the car has an egr delete, that's not saying the guy cleaned it after deleting it but I cleaned it 3 times after reading this and still have no change

Dhan said:

Next time it idles at 2k or 3k and won't come down, pop the hood and rotate the apparatus by hand where the throttle cable connects. If you can set it back into a position where the idles drop to normal, you have found your problem and likely need to rebuild your throttle body.

Also, if you have a 1g, be sure the idle position switch is correctly adjusted. It is the little sensor that physically stops the throttle butterfly valve when the car is idling.

Click to expand...

I slightly have the same problem after driving it some what hard it will sit at 2k and I have tried to manually turn the throttle back and it will drop some what but not fully. But if I let it set and idle like that for 5 mins or so and then just kinda Rev it up and down it will go back to normal?!

95GSTbig16 said:

I slightly have the same problem after driving it some what hard it will sit at 2k and I have tried to manually turn the throttle back and it will drop some what but not fully. But if I let it set and idle like that for 5 mins or so and then just kinda Rev it up and down it will go back to normal?!

Click to expand...

No i mean, mine was stuck in like limp mode after I drive it hard like that and I couldnt rev past 2500rpm while driving and while parked it now takes it a while to rev up like it's slow to rev up, I haven't even tried driving it because I'm afraid it may just cut off on me and I'll be left on the side of the road somewhere. It drives though, i guess, I've moved it in and out of the garage and moved it around the yard a little but nothing more...

Do you have a turbo charge coupler or pipe that is come loose? Any boost? More than likely this is what has happened. You need to do a boost leak test.

1990TSIAWDTALON said:

Do you have a turbo charge coupler or pipe that is come loose? Any boost? More than likely this is what has happened. You need to do a boost leak test.

Click to expand...

Is there a tool for it or a way of checking it, I've taken all the plumbing apart and put it back together and still no change... if there are other ways of checking it, i would appreciate the help and yes I still am getting boost, I can crank the car and rev up to about 3k and it'll get 12-14lbs of boost on the gauge and the bov will release just fine too. Please, any help would be greatly apreciated