Justin (@JusMX141) is who i believe your referring to on this board. He can do it for you if needed. If youre just putting new beatings in, you can mark the wheels/shaft and DIY fairly easy. MHI turbos are component balanced, so you dont technically need the assembly balanced. I would verify its actually the turbo before having it rebuilt tho.

What kind if sound is it that your hearing?

Card in bicycle spokes.

I have sealed all exhaust leaks.

And the noise is only at idle. I will try to get a video asap.

Generally a turbo makes whining or scraping sounds, not repetetive "fwap" or buzzing/clicking sounds.

A video would definitely help, but im thinking theres another issue.

Bad word usage on my end. It's more like a scraping noise

tametalon92 said:

Generally a turbo makes whining or scraping sounds, not repetetive "fwap" or buzzing/clicking sounds.

A video would definitely help, but im thinking theres another issue.

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Bad description on my part. It is scraping.

tametalon92 said:

MHI turbos are component balanced, so you dont technically need the assembly balanced.

Click to expand...

This is a little misleading.

Older 14B's, the units with the 11mm copper-colored compressor locknut, were all component-balanced units. On these turbos you could theoretically replace any wheel and it would be within the same operating tolerance as it was when you took it apart. In all likelihood Mitsubishi didn't have a VSR yet when these turbos were built.

Later versions of the 14B (somewhere around 1992-on) and almost every 16G and 20G I've ever serviced which have the 10mm locknut have a balance grind somewhere on the compressor locknut, indicating the turbo was balanced on a VSR as an assembled unit. If you stray away from the alignment of wheel/nut/shaft on ANY VSR-balanced turbo, you run the risk of putting the assembly at an unacceptable balance tolerance and causing a premature failure. If you're replacing one or both of the wheels and not getting the assembly rebalanced (going back to the old 14B method) then you should ditch the compressor locknut with the balance grinds and use a NEW locknut with no grinds.

Thanks justin, i was more or less quoting what ive seen on the boards, but that is a much more informed answer. Sorry if i was giving poor info!

And vegas, im not sure what you need more specific?
What justin is saying is: if your compressor nut has balance (grinding) marks on it, and you plan to reuse any wheels, you have to line them up as they were originally clocked; turbine shaft, compressor wheel and lock nut.

If youre replacing one or all of the components, you should start with a new lock nut so it can be balanced from a "zero" if needed.

As far as ive seen, most new parts (wheels/turbines) are component balanced, so if your replacong all the parts, you could technically go without a vsr balance. Although its still recommended for best performance and longevity. im sure justin could jump in and correct anything ive misconstrued, though this has been discussed at length in other threads on the forum.

tametalon92 said:

As far as ive seen, most new parts (wheels/turbines) are component balanced, so if your replacing all the parts, you could technically go without a vsr balance. Although its still recommended for best performance and longevity. im sure justin could jump in and correct anything ive misconstrued, though this has been discussed at length in other threads on the forum.

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VSR-balance is indeed the best option, but it's tough finding a shop that:

1) Has a Vibration Sorting Rig, and

2) Has the correct housings for a TD05H turbo. Likely someone who exclusively builds performance MHI turbos and nothing else as a VSR balancer is a terrible idea for someone just doing rebuilds as there are too many variations of bearing housings and turbine wheel sizes. The majority if your qualified rebuilders will use a plane balancer.