1). Any boost, vac, or exhaust leaks?
Boost leak tested 5psi above your max boost with no leaks? Yes
2). Verified mechanical timing?
Yes

3). Verified base timing?
5* BTDC

4). Ignition system
COP or Stock Coil:stock
Wire brand and Age:NGK
Spark Plug brand, type and Gap: BPR7ES at 0.28

5). Motor health (Compression Test)
Cylinder 1:150
Cylinder 2:150
Cylinder 3:145
Cylinder 4:150

6). Performed basic throttle body adjustments?
Idle Switch:yes
Throttle Cable:yes
TPS:yes
BISS:yes

7). Compression ratio
7.8:1

8). Any known bad sensors or brittle wiring?
No

9). Any DTC/CEL codes?
No

10). Electrical system
Car off (not running):12.6v
Car running:13-14v

11). Base fuel pressure and injector values
Base Fuel Pressure:43.5
Injector Size (cc/min):1120

12). Properly calibrated and configured wideband sensor
Sensor Brand:MTX-L
Calibration Date: About 3 months ago

13). Type of fuel
Type:91 Octane
Percent of Ethanol:10%

14). Watched ECMlink how-to videos?
Yes


Link is estimating about 240-250 WTQ at 4500 and 200 WHP close to redline on an EvoIII 16g at 24 psi tapering down to 22 close to reline. Timing goes from 6* at peak boost at 3600 RPM and goes up to 12* at redline. Do these numbers sound about right? They seem a bit low...

Not really that acurate using link for hp/tq numbers. A lot comes into play to get it to read right. I suggest you lower boost to 20 and up the timing. I bet you make more hp that way I run 20psi and 16-17* timing on my 14b and make more Hp on 92 pump. Would be more if I had the right fuel.

The coolant temp is a little wacky, check the wires that go to the sensor, they tend to corrode over time, become brittle and have intermittent contact. I'd also lean out the spoolup area a little where it dips into the tens (AFR) around 3500rpm in second. For 91 octane aim for 10.8 to 11.0 AFR when at full boost. It also goes rich at redline so lean that out a little, too.

To get more accurate hp numbers, make sure you enter the correct weight of the car in link and also your gear ratios in case you've changed anything.

Don't get too hung up on link numbers unless your making changes back to back on the same stretch of road.. you should be able to make a pull and say okay I made 300hp and 300tq.. if I add a bit of timing or lean something out here.. make the change and do the pull and see if you added or lost horsepower, that is essentially it's purpose, to tell you whether your gaining or losing, not your actual horsepower.

Dsmkauai said:

Not really that acurate using link for hp/tq numbers. A lot comes into play to get it to read right. I suggest you lower boost to 20 and up the timing. I bet you make more hp that way I run 20psi and 16-17* timing on my 14b and make more Hp on 92 pump. Would be more if I had the right fuel.

Click to expand...

Funnily enough, going down to 20 psi and upping the timing is exactly what I planned to do before making this thread haha. So far i've been able to increase my timing by 3* across my pulls with no knock. 20 psi doesn't seem to feel any different than the 24-25 psi I used to run at which is strange to me...

pneumo said:

The coolant temp is a little wacky, check the wires that go to the sensor, they tend to corrode over time, become brittle and have intermittent contact. I'd also lean out the spoolup area a little where it dips into the tens (AFR) around 3500rpm in second. For 91 octane aim for 10.8 to 11.0 AFR when at full boost. It also goes rich at redline so lean that out a little, too.

Click to expand...

I noticed my coolant temp being weird too and I think it's definitely time for a new ECT pigtail after looking at the wires. Not sure where you're seeing 10 AFR around 3500, it's showing 12.x on mine. Any leaner than that and it starts to knock :/.

Marchev said:

To get more accurate hp numbers, make sure you enter the correct weight of the car in link and also your gear ratios in case you've changed anything.

Click to expand...

I adjusted the gear ratios and weight beforehand so that should be good.

19gsx91 said:

Don't get too hung up on link numbers unless your making changes back to back on the same stretch of road.. you should be able to make a pull and say okay I made 300hp and 300tq.. if I add a bit of timing or lean something out here.. make the change and do the pull and see if you added or lost horsepower, that is essentially it's purpose, to tell you whether your gaining or losing, not your actual horsepower.

Click to expand...

I'm gonna say you're right on that one. These estimates don't seem to be very consistent sometimes. There will be times where I'll make a pull and at peak boost it'll say im at 300+ WTQ, but usually I can't get over 250.

Overall, the log looks ok.

For starters, is your profile up to date? You on stock cams?

Your spool time is a bit slow for a E316G. You're seeing peak boost (24 PSI) at ~4,200 RPM. What are you running for boost control? I'd expect your spool numbers to be 300-500 RPM sooner, but I suppose shitty 91 octane could be partially to blame.

You need to make a manual adjustment to your TPS sensor. The ECMLink TPS adjustment feature has become a pet peeve of mine. Nearly every log I look at, somebody is using it incorrectly. I strongly believe if you need to adjust the TPS offset or TPS scale more than a value of 2 on either scale, you need to go back and make a manual adjustment to your TPS. You are at a -5 offset, on a 102% scale. That tells me the natural sweep of your TPS sensor is out of wack, and you need to go manually adjust it. On my personal cars, I'm happy when this feature is either disabled, or I'm at 0 and 100%...But that's just me.

You global fuel is set pretty rich. At your fuel pressure for your injector size, ECMlink calculates your global should be around -62.9%. Your WB is lining up pretty well in the pull you uploaded, but I'd guess your overly rich at idle. You may want to take a look at your global fuel calculations.

I'd say the factor hurting you most is peak timing. You're seeing 10-12 degrees max at peak, which is weak sauce. Here again, you're going to be limited on power if the best fuel you can get is 91 octane. The hard crappy truth is; you'll never make any real power on 91 octane alone, especially on a 16G which has a restrictive hot side. Without meth or better fuel, you won't be able to advance your peak timing, or run more boost...Thus, being unable to make any real power.

You biggest problem = 91 octane.

Options for more power:

Better fuel --> More timing ---> More boost ---> More power

My profile is up to date and i do have stock cams. I'm using a Hallman MBC. Would an electronic setup work in my favor? About the spool time, if I floor it at say 2200 or so, it'll be at full boost at 3600 or so.

I will definitely look into adjusting the tps manually.

I still need to adjust my global fuel so that my VE table is closer to 100, so that will go leaner soon. Funnily enough though....my idle is lean (around 15-16) and my fuel trims are right around 0. That's something i still don't understand.

I have access to 93, 91 is just what I had in there at the time. I've been able to get my peak timing up to 13 so far with no knock. Fingers crossed that I can keep going up a bit more.

Thanks for the detailed response!

Ah, I don't know how I missed that. Yes, not being WOT via the entire pull will obviously delay spool time. Stop posting crappy logs

An EBC probably won't net you better spool unless there's an issue with your current BC. Albeit, an EBC is superior in nearly every other way. I'd strongly recommend looking into the ECMlink boost control feature.

93 probably won't net you much more power than 91. Methanol injection or E85 will open up a whole new world when it comes to making power, especially on smaller frame turbos.

I remember reading a long thread on meth injection systems on evos and how it would destroy a single cylinder in most of them from the lack of equal distribution to each cylinder. I don't remember what kind of meth setup they were mostly using though. Sounds to me like they were using an injector at the throttle body instead of one at each individual intake runner. I was a little put off by the idea of meth but then again there are a lot of people using them with no issues. What do you recommend for a system? No E85 in Maine so it's either meth or bigger turbo like you said :/.

This will only change the value on the screen, but you can change drivetrain loss to .20 in horsepower preferences as that is what most people leave it at for awd. Agian this wont help anything but if your comparing to other peoples logs this will give you more comparible results.

I would look at your airflow. It's a much better gauge of horsepower. I'm at work right now so I can't see the log. Basically if you take your airflow in lbs/min and multiply it by 10.5 that's a pretty close estimate of your CRANK horsepower. And then you just calculate for drivetrain loss and then you get your wheel horsepower. For example with the evo 3 you should have no problem hitting 36lbs/min, so

36 X 10.5 = 378 (Crank) X .8 (20% awd drivetrain loss) = 302.4 to the wheels.

So I would stop logging horsepower and torque estimates and just log airflow and look at that for you estimate.

There's a similar formula for calculating torque which I can show you, if you'd like.

Hope this helps!

henrysan said:

This will only change the value on the screen, but you can change drivetrain loss to .20 in horsepower preferences as that is what most people leave it at for awd. Agian this wont help anything but if your comparing to other peoples logs this will give you more comparible results.

Click to expand...

I currently have mine set at 0.00 because it supposedly shows a value closer to WHP/WTQ and .20 supposedly shows crank HP/TQ on an AWD. Thats what I remember reading on the ECMlink forums at least.

trogador2005 said:

I would look at your airflow. It's a much better gauge of horsepower. I'm at work right now so I can't see the log. Basically if you take your airflow in lbs/min and multiply it by 10.5 that's a pretty close estimate of your CRANK horsepower. And then you just calculate for drivetrain loss and then you get your wheel horsepower. For example with the evo 3 you should have no problem hitting 36lbs/min, so

36 X 10.5 = 378 (Crank) X .8 (20% awd drivetrain loss) = 302.4 to the wheels.

So I would stop logging horsepower and torque estimates and just log airflow and look at that for you estimate.

There's a similar formula for calculating torque which I can show you, if you'd like.

Hope this helps!

Click to expand...

I was under the impression that the HP/TQ estimate takes into account things such as timing that the airflow estimate does not, thus making it more accurate. I could be completely wrong though. I'm definitely interested in the torque formula.

I just don't like the HP/tq calculations cause you never get the weight quite right and other variables. Airflow is airflow regardless of if you're going uphill or have 55 watermelons in your DSM .

Everytime I've compared that HP formula to what the dyno said, it was within 5% for the wheels, usually it's off because the drivetrain loss isn't always 20% from car to car. (Not just talking dsms here)

The torque formula is; you take the CRANK horsepower and multiply it by 5252 devided by your redline.

So let's stick with 36lbs/min = 378(crank HP) X 5252 ÷ 7000(redline) = 283.6 torque.

This is assuming you're flowing 36lbs/min AT redline.

That's the simplest way I know to do it.

Again that formula gets me with 5-7% of the dyno.

I can't disagree with you on that one, you have a point there. Now I'm guessing for your airflow estimate on link to be as accurate as possible, your BoostEst has to match your actual boost at 5500?

For the airflow to be accurate your Maf calibration has to be accurate across your open loop pull. Don't look at boost est unless you have a map sensor to compare it to.

Basically adjust your Maf compensation so that your wbfactor is as close to 0% as possible and your airflow value should be accurate.

With SD I adjust global fuel up or down to get my boostest and map to line up, while also trying to keep my SD table values so the highest value's are 100. Anymore and table starts to get inflated

trogador2005 said:

For the airflow to be accurate your Maf calibration has to be accurate across your open loop pull. Don't look at boost est unless you have a map sensor to compare it to.

Basically adjust your Maf compensation so that your wbfactor is as close to 0% as possible and your airflow value should be accurate.

Click to expand...

What about on SD? I threw my MAF away a long time ago haha.

henrysan said:

With SD I adjust global fuel up or down to get my boostest and map to line up, while also trying to keep my SD table values so the highest value's are 100. Anymore and table starts to get inflated

Click to expand...

That's the same exact way I do it. My BoostEst is off by about 5 psi right now but my VE table only goes as high as mid-high 80's so im guessing that once I get it close to 100 my boost should match BoostEst.

As 19gsx91 said earlier, the HP/TQ calculations are most useful for comparing two logs from the same vehicle under similar conditions. These values are very good at showing whether or not the changes you're making to a particular tune are improving performance or not.