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2G I have rust inside of my exhaust manifold

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Here you go one of the side and top and each hole has it's own picture sorry it took me so long was getting my head ready to put in storage till this weekend when I have help
 

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That manifold looks like it has some cracks in it maybe no good anyway, do you have better pics of top and bottom? I would just get a wire/bottle brush and try to knock off that rust and scaling in the runners and collector and spray it out with brake cleaner before trying to use it, that is if it's not cracked
 
I want a header but money's really tight and i cant do it I'm having to wait for my check just go get a tube of gasket maker if ig crack's soon then I'll get a header but now I need tires and brake's
 
Your header will work fine with the crack the only thing it will do is relase more toxins into the air and sound loud and shitty but won't hurt unless it is a turbo in witch case you'd have a boost leak
 
Exhaust manifold cracks wont cause boost leaks, they would cause exhaust leaks. On a turbo this would cause pre-turbo exh. leaks that would cause spool issues.
On both n/a and boosted engines, exhaust leaks can affect the o2 sensors readings and throw off fuel trims as well as likely triggering a check engine light.

It will run and most likely not affect things too much, but id plan on replacing is asap.
 
Alright man thanks for everyone's help I'ma try and grab clr and gasket maker

Don't even bother cleaning it. It's crappy cast iron that will only rust again. Your worrying about something that's not an issue. The little bit that might come off won't hurt anything. Besides you stated its cracked. Why even waste your time trying to clean it up?

Also the exhaust manifold gasket is a metal gasket not paper. If you make it out of paper it will only burn up. Same goes for off the shelf rtv.

What you should be worrying about is how rusty your camshafts are.
 
The gasket maker is for the head gasket and the camshaft's it's surface rust it comes off easily with a wire brush but i will be changing them with crower 2's and my manifold will become a header
 
The only surfaces as far as I know that use rtv would be the valve cover gasket (corners and half moon if the 420a has it) and the oil pan and appearently "the right stuff" is the way to go instead of red or black rtv

or you buy what ever mitshibushi's over priced gasket maker is called LOL

+1 on rtv and head gasket should never be in the same sentence ROFL
 
The only surfaces as far as I know that use rtv would be the valve cover gasket (corners and half moon if the 420a has it) and the oil pan and appearently "the right stuff" is the way to go instead of red or black rtv

Wrong on all accounts.

Valve cover gasket uses anerobic sealant.

Oil pan gasket should not have any RTV on it or anything else for that matter.
 
Wrong on all accounts.

Valve cover gasket uses anerobic sealant.

Oil pan gasket should not have any RTV on it or anything else for that matter.

Maybe due to it being a Chrysler engine ? Explain please

I have red rtv on the corners of my valve cover gasket and the half moon seal and it's all fine and dandy no leaks I've seen

My oil pan has no gasket at all like it was from factory.
just either black rtv or the right stuff can't tell tbh needs to be replaced though

So no I wouldn't say im wrong on all accounts but again I guess I have a 4g63 and stuff is a lot different on the 420a I always forget it's a Chrysler engine

A lot of cars dont use any kind of gasket for the oil pan hell we used I think red maybe black rtv on the oil pan of a caviler and it seals fine
 
With the exception of the head gasket and exhaust manifold , you can use rtv if you want BUT a gasket is always the best option! The best rtv I have ever used it international (semi truck) sealant, but it's around $40 a tube.
 
Per FSM,

Oil pan:

There is indeed an oil pan gasket for the 420a motor. However, there is also two spots where the FSM calls for Loctite 5699 where the sealing surfaces of the front case and block meet. See below:

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Valve cover: In addition to to the large rubber gasket and spark plug well gasket, there are a couple of spots that the FSM calls for Loctite 18718. Like the 4g63t, sealant is used (sparingly) around sharp corners/transitions. See below:

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Upon a quick Google search, both Loctite 5699 and 18718 come up with grey RTV sealant.

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OP,

You need to purchase a cylinder head gasket set to ensure you get all of the necessary gaskets/seals for your head rebuild/replacement (exhaust manifold included). Rockauto can supply you with what you need at a reasonable price. You may also want to visit 2GNT.com for additional resources.
For example: http://www.2gnt.com/index.php?d=A Proper Rebuild

I do realize that the author of the guide specifies anaerobic sealant in some places as dsmcrzy stated, however, my FSM says otherwise. I would not use anaerobic sealants for the specified applications because rubber gaskets/seals are used and the tolerances are not very tight. I have used anaerobic sealants in the past for applications such as a trans case as the tolerances are much tighter in addition to metal to metal contact. I would still go with the sealants specified by the FSM in this case. I don't want to start an argument here, so if you want more info to make your own decision for a quick guide, see here:
http://arrc.ebscohost.com/ebsco_static/repair-tips/8852CH01_SEALANTS.htm
You will also want to better educate yourself with some basic working knowledge and terminology as it is very difficult to understand what you are trying to do. Using "thing" and "this" followed by a picture make it difficult to receive help.
 
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