The Top DSM Community on the Web

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. Log in to remove most ads.

Please Support Rix Racing
Please Support Fuel Injector Clinic

97 GST Spyder (AWD Swapped)

This site may earn a commission from merchant
affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

I had to do an oil change today and decided to remove the crank sensor that was making the horrible click sounds every time I push in the clutch, due to the crankwalk. Since I have the 1g CAS on the engine, the normal crank sensor isn't needed. Earlier this week I was driving to go have lunch with my wife, and heard a weird noise I couldn't even begin to describe, and my car seemed to act a little funky afterward, so I hadn't driven it until today. So as I was beginning to remove the harmonic balancer to get to the sensor, I discovered that my balance shaft belt broke, which had to have been the weird noise I heard. That has to explain the little extra vibrations I feel at random moments as well. So I got the broken belt removed along with the sensor and my car drives fine. Not the greatest on vibration, but it's fine for now. I'm planning to put my old 6 bolt back in before the weather turns cold again here, so that'll be coming soon.


B-S Belt.jpg
 
Last edited:
Little update, I'll be putting my old 6 bolt back in at the end of September, and I got my new VIN plate from Justin Drew today. Looks pretty good. Now just waiting on my paint to paint the driver side front fender.


VIN Plate.jpg
 
Getting set to put my 6 bolt back in starting on Wednesday. May take the 7 bolt apart, but haven't decided yet. Since my usual friend that helps me and had a garage for me moved, my parents have been nice enough to let me use their small garage. Hopefully this will be the last major thing to do to the car for a while, but it being a DSM, that's subject to change. Will most likely take pictures like always, may post a few.

I've also decided to put my smic back on along with its' flex pipes, put my fog lights back on, and a few other things. I don't remember why I decided I was going to do this, but I figure if I don't, I'll remember why later, and wished I had but won't have the time to do it again.
 
Last edited:
Got everything finished up this morning, and got it started. Only one problem remains. The passenger side axle seal started leaking gear oil after I filled the transmission. So I ordered a new seal for both sides. Will have those tomorrow and replace both.
 
So the seal I ordered, even though it was chosen from the AWD menu, turned out to still be for the FWD transmission. So, I have ordered the correct, yet over-priced, seal from ExtremePSi. I'll have that in a week and then can get the Paperweight back on the road.

Also thinking about getting this since I moved my boost gauge to this location and will put additional ones in the same location.

s477132602315564541_p150_i1_w1066.jpg


http://www.ortizcustompods.com/mitsubishi.html
 
Last edited:
Hey,

I just wanted to ask and see if you mind sharing Justin D. contact info? I would like to get one of these made also.

thanks,
The company is Woodside Customs, and here's the link: http://www.under-your-skin.com/jdf/tag.html
This is the direct link for the firewall tag, there's no picture, but it does let you enter info and order.

What part of California you moving to?
Will be moving to the Sacramento area. Most likely somewhere in Salano County.




Got my seal replaced today, but guess what? It still leaks...!!! FML...

Old seal was loose enough to rotate by hand, but everything looks good inside from what I could see.
20161014_122417.jpg


This is the new seal from ExtremePSi: MIT-MD707184
Seal.jpg

Based on what I've read so far, it looks as though I probably pushed the seal too far into the transmission casing. I made it flush and it shouldn't be. Guess I should have researched that prior to wasting a seal.

Removed the VRSF FMIC. Even though I love the kit, I'm going to sell it. I'm looking at getting the one from Punishment Racing so I can keep my fog lights with the FMIC, unlike the VRSF kit. That's the only thing I don't like about it. SMIC is back for now.
20161014_133252.jpg


Had to jump start my car :(
20161014_134342.jpg
 
Last edited:
Update to the last issue. I ended up buying another new axle seal for the passenger side. After doing some reading, I realized I probably pushed it too far into the transmission. I made the outer seal lip flush with the trans casing, and apparently, that was wrong. With the 2nd new seal, I made sure I didn't install it flush, and the subsequent test drive was great until the end. The seal worked out, no leaks since. I did buy a new axle seal for the driver side as well.

I say the test drive was great until the end because when I got home, I could hear a couple unusual noises. It sounded like there was too much ticking coming from under the valve cover (which I haven't heard since), and a loud scrapping coming from the transmission area. When driving through my apartment parking lot, it felt kind of notchy while shifting from 1st to 2nd, and when in reverse. The following day, I decided to go get a new alternator belt since mine is a bit old, and the alt keeps squealing regardless of how tight or loose the belt is. I barely got 2 miles down the road and the scrapping came back louder and I could no longer shift. I called a tow truck and got my car home. I'll be pulling it apart tomorrow to see if one of the clutch components failed as it had been mentioned on another post. Hopefully that's all that failed.
 
Last edited:
I'm not even mad, kind of impressed. I've never seen this before in person. I think it was a defective part because I don't drive my car hard enough to explode my clutch disc....

20161110_112238_zpskz3qyuyt.jpg

After pulling the transmission out, I saw that the ring around the splined part had shifted down, then all the parts just fell out after I unbolted the pressure plate.

20161110_113014_zps1gfupqom.jpg
 
Last edited:
I got 80% of reinstalling everything done yesterday, and finished up this morning. Got her started and test drove after a letting her warm up for 20 minutes. Drove great again. Also replaced my alternator belt so I no longer have that squealing like a pig.
 
7 Bolt Crankwalk Inspection

I finally got around to tearing my crankwalked 7 bolt apart this past Thursday. Upon first glance, I thought the block would at least be salvageable.

20161201_135250_zpssqrmvl97.jpg

20161201_142220_zpsszjp1mld.jpg

Sadly, that was not the case. The crank did wear into the journals and I didn’t see it at first. It’s noticeable in this picture:

20161201_151819_zpscdpg1knc.jpg

Three crank journals had this wear grove in them on the block side and the girdle side. You can also see how much play it had in the video.



Here you can see the gap between journal and crank on the thrust journal.

20161201_142932_zpsq24vlkoe.jpg

And here is the block half of the thrust bearing, the knife edged side was facing the flywheel.

20161201_151708_zpsxzpxdt1o.jpg

I also think the rods were too narrow, maybe someone can verify….

20161201_145216_zpsdsraa4qy.jpg

This however, may have been what caused the crankwalk. Looks like the crank came from a salvage yard. Perhaps someone didn’t know better, and took a gamble on a bad part.

20161201_144759_zpsnixaueqp.jpg
 
Last edited:
^^This is true but the biggest factor on whether an engine lives or dies is the ability of your machinest. I measure all my clearences as well and never had an engine issue..... because my machinest is not human, he's a robot and doesn't f*** shit up at all LOL. I've never had a bearing issue and I swing my POS out to 10000 a lot.
 
Car broke down this past Tuesday without warning. Engine runs, but there's no power transferring to the wheels. I thought maybe one of the diffs blew out since I had normal clutch pressure, but I could throw it into any gear without pressing the pedal, while the engine was still running. So tonight I started it up and now it makes noises when I press the clutch pedal, so I think the replacement clutch broke like the one it replaced.

 
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Innovation Products Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications MyMitsubishiStore.com RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Vendor Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top