GVR-4 Removed Steering column, alignment now required?

4gfun · Nov 11, 2015

I removed the steering column to do a clutch pedal replacement. I noticed that the wheel is now turned slightly to the left and I didn't mark the position prior to removal.

Questions:

1) Are the splines keyed as to avoid this problem?

2) How hard is it to get the column splines pressed into the part that comes out of the steering rack? I didn't want to push super hard.

3) Do I now need an alignment?

Thanks

slaminGSX · Nov 13, 2015

1. No there is not a master spline from the column to the steering shaft.

2. Not sure on what you asking here?

3. An alignment is not needed. If it isn't far off I would just pull the steering wheel and re-install the wheel straight up. The only thing that might happen is your turn signal cancel cam might not work.

Jared

Dsmkauai · Nov 13, 2015

I just swapped out my rack and will def get a alignment to make sure toe is in spec. I got it pretty close but you can never be as accurate as a alignment machine. Also once you put the new rack in make sure it goes into the column. And it's super easy to get back in I was able to push mine in by hand. Then install the jam nut. Also once I had it all back together even thou I had the wheel straight while installing. It was still up side down, because of the new racks position when I started. I thought it was striaght but really couldn't tell. Since I have a momo wheel I just took it of and flipped it

slaminGSX · Nov 13, 2015

Dsmkauai, his question was referring to removing and installing the steering column. There was no mention of replacing the steering rack.

Jared

4gfun · Aug 26, 2016

Thanks guys. Is there a way where I can make sure I am getting the steering wheel absolutely centered before pushing the splines back in? How do I know that the tires are pointed absolutely straight at home?

PlanZero · Aug 26, 2016

Not sure if this helps but when I installed DSM racks a few times, the easiest way is to turn the shaft all the way to the right with channel locks or something you can reach down there with, then turn the wheel to the right 1.5 turns (try to use another DSM for reference to see where it locks, but be careful, on my 2g I cracked the plastic ring behind the wheel because I over turned) the try to slide the yoke on.
The wheel was almost centered after a few tries, and after turning the tie rods evenly about 1/4 turn each it feels perfect.

4gfun · Aug 26, 2016

You are making the reference to steering racks just to give me an idea of *how* to set the wheel straight and do realize that I dropped the steering column (without touching the rack) right?

Just making sure. Not being condescending, just wanted to make sure that we are on the same page.

Also, are you saying that tie rod adjustment will control whether or not the steering wheel is centered? Not trying to put words in your mouth, just trying to get angle (no pun intended) to make life easier.

I have a lifetime alignment policy on the car, but I am not sure exactly how and if that will help with getting the steering wheel centered. I am really not fond of taking my car to children to have it worked on and avoid it as much as possible.

Thank you.

4gfun · Aug 26, 2016

What I am wondering is if I could put the car on a level surface, get the steering wheel visually centered, and get the tires to point straight forward would that be enough to call it a day and NEVER have to pull that steering wheel column again?

Also how do I know that I got the front two tires perfectly straight when doing that?

Again, I don't want to revisit that steering column again.

4gfun · Aug 27, 2016

Anyone? I really want to avoid dropping the steering column over and over again.

Is it sufficient to get the wheels as straight as I can on level ground, get the steering wheel pointed as straight as I can and NEVER have to worry about dropping the steering column again?

DogWhistle · Aug 27, 2016

In the cars I have pulled the steering column on, the splines were large enough so that the steering wheel would have to make large rotation to line up with the "next" spline. That said, I have not pulled a column on a DSM, so I don't know how fine the splines are, but the principle should apply.

Note: DO NOT rotate your steering wheel 360* or you will ruin the clock spring mechanism inside the column.

As for how hard to push the splines into each other: Cars have had collapsible steering columns since the '70s. Use lube, and moderate pressure. No pounding. Make sure your collar on the receiving side is sufficiently loose.

If you are off a spline, and you don't want to pull the column again, an alignment can compensate for any angle change, but you just won't have equal turning radius side to side.

PlanZero · Aug 27, 2016

4gfun said:
Anyone? I really want to avoid dropping the steering column over and over again.

Is it sufficient to get the wheels as straight as I can on level ground, get the steering wheel pointed as straight as I can and NEVER have to worry about dropping the steering column again?

Yes I realize your issue is the column, but it is still rack related. Don't worry about straight tires. They are tied in to the rods, so if you didn't f*** with your tie rods during this they will remain straight.
I'm telling you a pretty common method of connecting the column yoke to the rack.
Personally I would put the column in, then loosen the rack brackets from under the car so it drops down a little and you can connect the yoke to the shaft, with the technique i mentioned above.I've done this a few times by myself and it would be much easier with a helper; also remove your tires first

4gfun · Aug 27, 2016

DogWhistle said:
In the cars I have pulled the steering column on, the splines were large enough so that the steering wheel would have to make large rotation to line up with the "next" spline. That said, I have not pulled a column on a DSM, so I don't know how fine the splines are, but the principle should apply.

Note: DO NOT rotate your steering wheel 360* or you will ruin the clock spring mechanism inside the column.

As for how hard to push the splines into each other: Cars have had collapsible steering columns since the '70s. Use lube, and moderate pressure. No pounding. Make sure your collar on the receiving side is sufficiently loose.

If you are off a spline, and you don't want to pull the column again, an alignment can compensate for any angle change, but you just won't have equal turning radius side to side.

I wonder if the case you stated is the same with the DSM e.g. the Spline distance making it fairly tough to be wrong. I have a good sense of what is straight and what isn't.

I think that I now have enough to go on.

Thanks.

4gfun · Aug 27, 2016

PlanZero said:
Yes I realize your issue is the column, but it is still rack related. Don't worry about straight tires. They are tied in to the rods, so if you didn't f*** with your tie rods during this they will remain straight.
I'm telling you a pretty common method of connecting the column yoke to the rack.
Personally I would put the column in, then loosen the rack brackets from under the car so it drops down a little and you can connect the yoke to the shaft, with the technique i mentioned above.I've done this a few times by myself and it would be much easier with a helper; also remove your tires first

Thanks for clarifying. If the other method doesn't work, I'll come back. I will probably have to come back either way.

Crossing fingers, although you have shown me a way where I won't need to.

Appreciate it and thanks again.

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