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95eclipser's 1999 GSX - Street/Track Build - 2009-Present

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Holy crap! They did a great job!

Thanks! I think so as well. I picked them because I have seen the main body guys work. And he told me that he has fixed a couple DSM strut towers in the past.
He even undercoated the driver side for me as well to prevent any future rust situations from happening.
 
So I decided to work on the interior this weekend. I was tired of the car not having a radio. And half the gauges in the radio's place weren't working so I thought why not take them out. And put a radio back in.

Couple things I learned.

-I had a rats nest of wires from the old owner setting up the Greddy gauges. I just decide to remove the whole thing since I want to run AEM digital anyways

& second,

-I was missing the radio brackets. A quick trip to the junk yard and I was able to find some spares. Just need to pick up a new head unit and harness and I'll be good to go. I also grabbed a little cubby to relocate my tein edfc controller.

Couple more things and I'll be able to putt everything back together.

Thanks for reading.
 

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Radio is in and it works.

I order a AEM Digital Boost Gauge. I have reduce my gauges from 5 to 2 at this time. Boost & Wideband.

I will eventually pick up an AEM digital Oil Pressure gauge as well, but that is later down the line. Boost Gauge install pics coming soon.

Two Items to add to in the maintenance list.
- Re seal oil pan.
- Replace return line gasket.
 

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Both gauges installed and ready to go.

Went a lot quicker then I thought since I had all the wires organized and labeled when I pulled the Greddy ones out.
 

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Saturday 7/16 update.

Woke up at a decent time and decide to get the car back together for cars and coffee on Sunday.

-Reinstalled the bumper
-Washed and hit the car and wheels with some quick detail.
-fueled up and quick drive and re torqued the wheels.

That's it for now. Just saving for a retune.
 

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Sunday C&C in Dulles landing.

I realized when I got home. I have a leak on my pan and return line I need to address sooner then later.

More info to come. Stay tuned.
 

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Well, looks like the oil leak might be more then just the pan. I got the car high enough in the air to remove the DP and get a good look at what is going on.

There is way more oil coming out then when I last saw it. Most likely due to driving it about 50miles for C&C in Dulles Landing. Anyways, it is hard to tell if the pan the is main cause or if the front main seal is also leaking. Im going to pulley the crank pulley and lower cover and take a look. If I have to replace anything. I might as well just knock out a timing job for convenience sake.

Take a look at the pics and let me know what ya'll think. Thanks for looking.
 

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Well I'm in deep now. Not really sure where to start. Oil residue is everywhere. I think the best course of action is to just replace everything.
-Timing belt job w/water pump.
-Replace oil pump
-Reseal oil pan
-Replace oil drain line.
and just clean the crap out of everything.

image.jpeg
 

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It's hard to say what the cause is as there is a belt that is probably flinging oil in other places. You could try cleaning it up and seeing if anything seeps out while its sitting there for a period of time.

Doing a quick search these should be what you would need for a 7 bolt.

Timing Kit - GATES TCK167A
Water Pump - GATES 42166
Tensioner - MD308587 (Build Date before August 1995) OR MD308086 (Build Date after August 1995 to 1999)
Front Case Gasket Kit - BECK/ARNLEY0398017
 
Out with the old. Small cleaning and in with the new.
 

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Removed the oil pan.
Cleaned it and got ride of all the excessive silicon. Quick rattle can job and good to go.
 

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So this Sunday I got a little more work done. Im slow with repairs I know LOL.

-Laid out some Grey silicone, and resealed the oil pan. I was able to install the T-case after that. little awkward when laying down but not bad.
-Copper gasket sprayed the oil filter housing gasket and re-installed that.
-Made sure the outer crank seal was seated correctly, and started putting the crank sprocket and stuff back on. Torqued everything I installed down.

Up next.. Water pump and timing components. I wanted the silicone to have a good 24hours of sealing before jacking up the oil pan to lift the motor.

Thanks for reading.
 

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Small project update: Everything is re-installed, torqued and belt is currently on. Just needs to be tensioned.


Zip ties for the belt to stay in place.
image-jpeg.311460


Cam gear tool installed. Cam gear marks lined up (Check).
Cam dowel pins facing up (Check)
image-jpeg.311461


Routing down to lower timing gears. Timing rod installed putting pressure on the arm. Grenade pin on the tension is lose during this process.
image-jpeg.311462


Lower timing. Belt routed.
image-jpeg.311463


Oil Pump Sprocket Lined up. (Check). I will say this is not needed as I have done the BSEK.
image-jpeg.311464


Crank sprocket lined up with marking (Check)
image-jpeg.311465

image-jpeg.311466
 
Had off work today and with my buddies help yesterday we got a lot on the car done. That's the good news, the car is back together. The Bad news...I might be tearing it back apart again. Got the car started but it sounds like shit. starts dies, starts dies. Got it to final idle but sounded like it has a bad vacuum leak. Im guessing, that timing is off in some way. :/

Guess I'll try again tomorrow.
 

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